OldmanRick
Well-Known Member
It's not advised to use the steel shim gaskets on aluminum heads.
Yeah, I can't imagine what heat cycles would do there...
It's not advised to use the steel shim gaskets on aluminum heads.
Those gaskets also require a retorque after the first heat cycle..
I wanted to lower my cranking compression because I thought that it was the only way to stop this engine from knocking. I still think that thicker head gaskets would get me there, but I keep thinking of the many smart engine builders that tout the benefits of a quench engine.
The way I see it, nothing is permanent. I am thinking that I could try the .027 Cometics first. The theory is that even though the compression does go up, the quench effect is supposed to MORE than offset that while providing a more efficient burn.
If the engine runs fine with the thinner gaskets, I will gladly admit that I was wrong about it and beg for the forgiveness of all that suggested it. rayer:
IF the engine still knocks, I have the .075 gaskets to use. I was all set to just jump in and use the .075 gaskets, but the idea of quench keeps calling me......
It's big - almost a point because it's the full gasket bore losing the volume.
With your cam degreed in at 106 when is the intake valve closed on your degree wheel? Do all the open close events on the cam card match the wheel events?
The .075 drops me down to 10.07 and quench would be nonexistent at .087.
You can add shims to adjust where the engine sits in the K frame to make small changes and clear the steering box.
Let us know how it goes when the pump gas is in it.