Stroker Performance Review

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12many said:
I had a 9” J version of theirs back around 1986, what after seeing their many ads in the car magazines of the time. Lots of good sounding Mumbo-jumbo in them as I recall. :rolleyes: Would love to see those ads again for giggles!
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LOL ...and you know what? I've been looking for one !
 
A junk converter on a high powered turbo car can kill mph out the back like you let off the gas at half track. When the engine makes more power it’s easier to drive through the converter. Lots of fast cars (3.70s in the 1/8th fast) are using lock up style converters now and locking them up after the high gear shift. Not really applicable to the OP but hopefully it helps to understand how a converter can effect mph.
 
Ivoryk3ys78 said:
I sure don't mind being wrong. I just wish I understood how the converter could have a large effect on MPH.

The 8% slip I through out there was not a measured amoutn of slip. I just thought it would get the math int he ballpark.

Thanks for the advice. Converter is definitely the $$ change so work my way through lower cost things first and save the converter for a year down the road.
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Where in Oregon?.. friend of mine is racing "hole in the hood" today with his duster.. I have to work today, but I have been avoiding crowds and haven't been to the track this year...
 
'63GT said:
I would be concerned about the output too..
But you said your converter was built for a 318 ?!?! My money is on THAT being the problem, for the most part. Your new motor is driving through it.
I don't know what converter you have (who made it) but I would send it back and correct it for your new combo. Maybe $250, more if they change the stator. (probably)
If you have a stock 10 3/4 lying around, throw it in, shift it at 5800 and see how it MPH's... if it gains 4-5 mph, you've found your issue.

TrickFlows QC is probably a lot better than Edelbrock's QC... I had a OOTB E Streets in my shop a couple weeks ago, and the Valve seat run-out was horrendous!
Don't put too much stock in the Leak-Down testers.. They are finiky with piston possition and tend to show a false negative.
A compression check should suffice, as long as they're consistent, cyl to cyl.
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To add a little more detail, I sent my 9.5" converter back to Dynamic in the winter. I wanted it setup for the motor I'm building now (4200 stall). Cost to go through it and also replace the stator was $415. New front cover was about $150 of that cost.
 
The famous "Add" that got me.... :)

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TurboGLH said:
To add a little more detail, I sent my 9.5" converter back to Dynamic in the winter. I wanted it setup for the motor I'm building now (4200 stall). Cost to go through it and also replace the stator was $415. New front cover was about $150 of that cost.
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Wow, that sucks.. prices keep going up.
sounds like the cover replacement was part of the 'correction'? or damaged in some way?
(enough of INFLATION, can we have deflation now?)
 
'63GT said:
Wow, that sucks.. prices keep going up.
sounds like the cover replacement was part of the 'correction'? or damaged in some way?
(enough of INFLATION, can we have deflation now?)
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It was. Their rebuild price was $285 + parts but to get the stall up to 4200 it needed the cover swapped.
 
I remember there ads in mopar mags shortly after high shool in 96. We bought a 9.5" 3500 converter for my brothers 440 in his 67 Satelite. He did 11.8 with it and it was stock Stage IV heads and hughes 540/555 hydraulic 242/248 I think, M1 intake. It seeme dto work well for him. Certainly a pretty lose converter.

We bought one of there racing transmissions for the 67 as well. Car hadn't been drivin because of an accident in 2002 for many years. Getting it going again and Tranny still seems to work fine.



318willrun said:
The famous "Add" that got me.... :)

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Ivoryk3ys78 said:
I sure don't mind being wrong. I just wish I understood how the converter could have a large effect on MPH.

The 8% slip I through out there was not a measured amoutn of slip. I just thought it would get the math int he ballpark.

Thanks for the advice. Converter is definitely the $$ change so work my way through lower cost things first and save the converter for a year down the road.
Click to expand...
I had a 65 plymouth B body that I built back in 2005. It had a 11.5.1 440 with edelbrock 84 cc heads. I had a no name 8 inch converter in it. I ran out of money building the car but wanted to race. Lol so I traded some parts for the 8 inch converter. The car ran a best of 11.19 at 118 mph in the 1/4. I thought the car ran ok but to me felt like you was dragging something down the track. So after that I saved up and got a 8 inch turbo action converter. With just a converter change only the next time at the track, the 65 ran a 10.56 at 125. I couldn't beleave just a converter change made that much of a change in the car. But like whats been said a good convert isn't cheep. So i don't know for you if its something you woukd want to try right off the bat.
 
Yep and the converter to me is the single most important piece in an auto trans car.

Guys spend 5 figures on an engine and put a $200 converter behind it. Then wonder why the car doesn't perform as well as they think it should.
 
PRH said:
Most who were playing with cars in the 80’s have GER experience.
I actually had a 10” that worked fine.
I ran it for a couple years, sold it...... and that guy ran it for a long time.
It was worth at least .2 over the stock 11” unit he had behind his 383.
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Yeah, they were hit and miss. There were some good one, but that bad ones sucked.
 
crackedback said:
Yep and the converter to me is the single most important piece in an auto trans car.

Guys spend 5 figures on an engine and put a $200 converter behind it. Then wonder why the car doesn't perform as well as they think it should.
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You just almost decribed me -------------
 
The car ran a best of 11.19 at 118 mph in the 1/4. I thought the car ran ok but to me felt like you was dragging something down the track. So after that I saved up and got a 8 inch turbo action converter. With just a converter change only the next time at the track, the 65 ran a 10.56 at 125.
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On the Moroso chart that 118 to 125 speed difference “shows” an 80+ hp gain at 3400-3500lbs.
 
PRH said:
On the Moroso chart that 118 to 125 speed difference “shows” an 80+ hp gain at 3400-3500lbs.
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I dont know what else to say other than that's all I did. Was change converters.
 
mopar65 said:
I dont know what else to say other than that's all I did. Was change converters.
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I’m not arguing with you.

You’re just proving my point..........that a crappy converter can kill the ET and the MPH.

The motor didn’t actually make 80hp more with the good converter........ but the performance calculators “show” it did.
 
I fell for that GER add too. I put a "3000 stall" in my dead stock (except for a full manual valve body for the column shift) A12 car.
It stalled 4300. I could drive down the road at 3000, not move my throttle foot, and put the car in any gear, the speed and rpm would not change.
If I had to guess, I would say 20% slip. Maybe more. The car was completely undrivable.
 
PRH said:
I’m not arguing with you.

You’re just proving my point..........that a crappy converter can kill the ET and the MPH.

The motor didn’t actually make 80hp more with the good converter........ but the performance calculators “show” it did.
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oh ok. I thought maybe you was saying, that I was fibbing. lol
 
Alright, enough sitting around! It has been almost a WEEK! What did it run getting full throttle?:)
 
Haha.. we haven't gone yet. A friend of mine is coming over this weekend and we are going to check somethings and test the spring pressure and shim to get the spring pressure Howards wants for my cam.

Hoping we can get there in three or four weeks and have my dads Proform 850 at the track with us so we can try that too.

Full throttle was working this weekend when giving a ride at a party at the parents. :)




furrystump said:
Alright, enough sitting around! It has been almost a WEEK! What did it run getting full throttle?:)
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Okay posting an update. This was the first time to the track since I posted this last August.

We fixed not getting full throttle and put stronger valvesprings in to fix the valve float problems. The only other change was a 1" super sucker spacer and a HV fuel pump and pressure regulator.

Here is a recap of the cars setup
72 Duster. track weight was right around 3350.(not exact)
408, 11.2Cr .039 quench
Strip dominator
800cfm carb (proform race 650 with upgraded main body)
Trickflow heads
Howard 600/615 254/260 108 LSA in at 103.5
Pro magnum 1.5 rockers
Kevko pan
TTI 1 7/8 race headers 18" collector extension
Shifting was ay 6600
Timing was at 36

727 RMVB
Hughest 3500 street/strip converter. If you floor it in 3rd flashes to 4200.

4.10 , 28 Nitto 275/60/15 drag radial
Mancini XHD leaf springs
CE 3way at 90/10 front
CE 3way at 60/40 rear
Pinion snubber.


I really wished we had the slicks and not the drag radials. We were not hooking and the track was packed so only 2 runs. My brothered eased into it on this pass. The first one he spun through 1st and 2nd after nailing it to the floor.

Anyway car is running much better after addressing the issues. I am pretty happy and I am hoping with some testing and figuring things out we can get more out of it. Options are a bit limited without a cage anyway.

Here is the results I posted in the first post last year
"
Best of the 2 runs we got.
60' 1.715
330' 4.859
1/8 7.515@92
1000' 9.837
1/4 11.814@113.51"

Today
60' 1.875
330' 4.974
660 7.546
95.74mph
1000 9.776
1/4 11.671
118.63 MPH
 
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