stuck and rust spark plug

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alex_borges_br

alex_borges_br

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Any idea to remove ???

I'm cleaning and spraying wd40 on it every day for a few weeks

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Normally when I run into that situation I try applying a little heat around it....not sure on a spark plug though....
 
Get some good penetrating oil. WD-40 doesn't work all that well. You may end up drilling it out like Redfish said. It's in there pretty good.
 
x2. WD40 is not a penetrating oil at all. Try PBlaster and a GOOD Snap On spark plug socket and some STOUT air pressure and an impact. Give the impact short, controlled bursts and I bet that pup will come right out.
 
Now you have a reason to go buy those aluminum heads you have been thinking about!!
Don't forget the bottle of anti-seize compound. ;)

I think RustyRatRod's advice is the path I would try...but it looks like there might not be that much left for the socket to grab.
 
I would degrease it and then hit it with muriatic acid to remove the rust. Then hit it with PB Blaster.
 
RustyRatRod said:
x2. WD40 is not a penetrating oil at all. Try PBlaster and a GOOD Snap On spark plug socket and some STOUT air pressure and an impact. Give the impact short, controlled bursts and I bet that pup will come right out.
Click to expand...

^ that's how it's done ^
 
68gtxman said:
I would degrease it and then hit it with muriatic acid to remove the rust. Then hit it with PB Blaster.
Click to expand...

The acid trick works the balls! I also heat up the stuck nut, bolt, and in this case spark plug then apply some paraffin wax to the threads. The heat will pull the wax into the threads, lubing them and making it easier to remove. Ive heard, not sure myself though, that PB Blaster actually has some Paraffin wax in it.
 
I had one that I broke of and could not get out.Someone told me they make a spark plug removal kit,I had now idea.I went to Advance Auto bought one and had the plug out in a few minutes.
 
Rusty's tip would be best. You could also try ATF mixed with Kerosene as a penetrating oil, that works very well. If the impact and air dont work, get a big breaker bar and quality socket.
 
I wonder where people got the idea WD40 was a penetrating oil... PB blaster, keep it wet for a week. then start with the head and impact, first step is always tighten!
 
maz72 said:
Kroil is the best penetrating oil.
Click to expand...

I love Kroil! My dad use to bring it home from GE before he retired. If GE thinks its good stuff then I would assume it works. I don't have to assume though cause I know it works!
 
Hi moparkid
unfortunately, here in brazil we lack on a lot of very basics resources.

WD40 is announced here as a penetration oil. That's why I committed that mistake.

probably, all penetration oil I will buy on a spray can here in Brazil will work just like wd40.

I'll try ATF and kerosene (I did it before when removing the stuck cylinder).

I've already turned the cylinder upside down to try to penetrate oil from there.


805moparkid said:
I wonder where people got the idea WD40 was a penetrating oil... PB blaster, keep it wet for a week. then start with the head and impact, first step is always tighten!
Click to expand...
 
I've always wondered in the case of a stuck spark plug, the application is some type of penetrating oil is universally recommended but riddle me this, if the spark plug is seated in the head with either a metal gasket or tapered seat and combustion gasses cant get out how does the penetrating oil get in? I can see it being useful in a case where there is carbon build up at the bottom of the threads and you've already got some movement but when they're completely stuck with no movement I don't see how penetrating oil helps. In my experience the hex either gets rounded off to the point where you can't get a socket to turn it or the hex part breaks off leaving the threaded part in the head, or the threads get stripped on the way out, so until you expose the threads I don't see the usefulness of penetrating oil, maybe I'm wrong.

In this case the head seems to be off the engine so soaking the the threads from the back is viable so it's just a matter of getting that sucker to turn.
 
The spark plug is hollow,, so if you can punch out the center,, I've has some success at collapsing the shell into itself.. A jigsaw blade held by visegrips worked for me, to saw from the inside out toward the threads, then a cape chisel to curl it into the centre,, by this time it's usually loose enuff to undo with pliers..
 
All good ideas here, the thing that you have going for you is the head is off.
Clean everything around the plug on both sides.
Since you cannot purchase Aero-Krol.

Heat the area around the plug, (try to avoid heating the plug, you want to heat the area around it to expand the metal), on the combustion side with a torch, add candle wax, gently tighten / loosen until it screws out.

If it is still stubborn keep heating and adding wax, you may have to let it cool down to room temperature and do this several times but it will remove a fastener.
 
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