Super Victor - do I grind out bulge under carb pad?

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kielbasa

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Hi guys, looking for input on whether I should grind out the bulbous area beneath the carb pad. The bulby portion protrudes under the throttle body bore, I assume it may help the airflow curl over so it doesn't slam into the plenum floor?
EFI, so it will be a dry manifold if that matters....thanks for any info!!
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not going to add a spacer, needs to fit under AAR hood, and this intake with the throttle body is almost exact height as stock....
but the question is , do I grind or not?
 
From what I have seen, that bulge area gets ground backwards and contoured into the runners roof.

Do so check others work before proceeding as to copy the work. The general idea is to create a longer runner at the roof. (Raising the roof line.) Remove the obstruction and smooth out the path for the air (& fuel, which has a harder time turning from downwards and then making a 90-ish degree turn into the runner.)
 
I did it to a BBM victor once, looked great on the flow bench, lost 50hp in a 700hp engine. I still have it as a reminder NOT TO DO IT lol
 
ok, thanks for the info....certainly appreciate it!!!!!! i'll just smooth out the booger action....
 
They actually want to be straight across each pair of runners like that. You can grind to be a lIttle less radiused...but don't loose the majority of the radius.
Think of it like an upside down short turn!
If it were a wet manifold....I would rough the hell out of those areas , thin the divider walls a hair and rough them up as well. That's what I would do.
 
Grind it out. You've GOTTA know way more than those stupid intake manifold engineers.
 
Grind it out. You've GOTTA know way more than those stupid intake manifold engineers.
And this is true to a point, just like there are gains in head porting, you don't just go and grind out everything to be as big as can be and out of the way as possible.
 
And this is true to a point, just like there are gains in head porting, you don't just go and grind out everything to be as big as can be and out of the way as possible.
my 1200cfm throttle body is so big compared to that area on my intake I had to take them out and re shape the radius-opening up the corner runners, which are the weak ones on a torque 2.. (used it for hood clearance and staying away from dual plane for the fuel inj. will see next summer I hope. I built it mushy down low, hoping to get some traction, but so far it feels like it comes on like gang buster, haven`t had it over 5000 , yet. still working bugs.
 
my 1200cfm throttle body is so big compared to that area on my intake I had to take them out and re shape the radius-opening up the corner runners, which are the weak ones on a torque 2.. (used it for hood clearance and staying away from dual plane for the fuel inj. will see next summer I hope. I built it mushy down low, hoping to get some traction, but so far it feels like it comes on like gang buster, haven`t had it over 5000 , yet. still working bugs.
Well according to the tone I'm reading in this thread...you did wrong and it should run like ****.lol
Like I said , if you stay near that general shape and ROUGH THE ENTIRE AREA you will make more power...take too much out and or smooth it all like a mirror, you will loose power. E Brock quality control is loose, and if everything that came in a box was perfect.... lot of people would be out of business here.
 
ah come on Jim ....you mean to seriously tell me you bolt those on ootb every time, I don't buy that ...especially from you!
I have done back to back to back to back tests where I used a gasket matched stock Victor intake. Then smoothed the bulge area like Mike said. Then installed the 2" spacer on the smoothed throat. Then we ported the bulge out and blended the opening into the intake runners and made some more dyno pulls. And finally put the 2" spacer on the ported intake and pulled some more.

Just blend the bulge boys and girls.

Just blend the bulge.
 
HAHA We have both fell victim to or over active brain. Its amazing how much power was LOST from removing it, and it was across the entire rpm range, bad bad bad. I will never do it again i can tell you that.
 
HAHA We have both fell victim to or over active brain. Its amazing how much power was LOST from removing it, and it was across the entire rpm range, bad bad bad. I will never do it again i can tell you that.

I have done this on a big block victor and a small block victor. Both had penalties in the averages but the small block didn't seem to lose much peak power. That being said--just blend it a bit if you just have to. J.Rob
 
I'd listen to Mike (MRL) unless your talented with a grinder and understand air flow. As well as being able to afford not just 2 intakes but the dyno tested my of the first after mods, then again after the 3 mod and the forth mod, the 5th....

My point being money to prove what has been discovered already.

Most times, intake that respond to porting are done in the manor I mentioned. And that's a "IF" mind you.
 
I'd listen to Mike (MRL) unless your talented with a grinder and understand air flow. As well as being able to afford not just 2 intakes but the dyno tested my of the first after mods, then again after the 3 mod and the forth mod, the 5th....

My point being money to prove what has been discovered already.

Most times, intake that respond to porting are done in the manor I mentioned. And that's a "IF" mind you.



It really only takes one manifold. You can weld it up. I just never really cared for that intake. Did many big blocks though.
 
What? Re Weld the intake back to the way it was? Duplicate the bulge? Are you kidding me?!?! LMAO!
You sir, are very funny!
 
What? Re Weld the intake back to the way it was? Duplicate the bulge? Are you kidding me?!?! LMAO!
You sir, are very funny!


My point was if you ***** it up while porting on it you can put it back. Happens all the time. If you are not filling stuff back in, you're not learning nothing and leaving power on the table. It's easy to weld a bit of aluminum back in.
 
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