synchro interchange/best ones to use

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skep419

skep419

5.9 Magnum 4 speed afficionado
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I have a 1968 a833 4 speed that has the early style synchro's. I was told the later style is better. Was wondering if the a833od tranny synchros would be the ones to use and if they would work? also I have brass shift forks. would the steel shift forks from a OD tranny work in my trans?

thanks
 
The late style shifts a little easier. Just a little bit. The brass rings are less likely to split at the strut locator.Otherwise they are exactly the same. For street duty I wouldn't lose any sleep over it.
As to the brass forks; I have seen a few brass forks split off the stumps. I have no idea under what circumstances that might happen, although I have suspicions. It has never happened to me.
As to the steel forks, they are a little harder on the sliders, if you continue to use the forks when clearly the sliders should be changed, due to jumping out of gear.
Again for street duty, I would run whatever you have; just change stuff out when it goes bad, and upgrade then.
I wouldn't change stuff just for the sake of changing stuff.

Yes the O/D forks will work,same as the new stuff.
As to swapping synchronizers; it's an all or nothing deal. All the parts in each style are different from each other;the hubs,sliders,rings,struts,and springs;all different.
 
so if I could get my hands a a833od would they work in my trans? (ive got 3 transmissions that I could potentially rob parts from)
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A-833-synchronizers.jpg
 
you could use one OD synchro not two. The reason is that one synchro has a hub/drum with a smaller inside diameter - it won't fit on a regular main shaft. I think it's the 3-4 drum that has the smaller inner diameter but I'm not 100% sure but you'll see it when comparing both drums. On non OD transmissions both drums have the same inner diameter. You could buy a new drum from Brewer's and use the slider from the OD transmission though.
 
what if I had two transmissions? could I use one from both
 
Ok,Ok; whats going on here?

As noted the 3-4 hubs from the Ods will not fit any other tranny. They are Od specific. And in the regular box, the 2 hubs are also location specific. So no, the 1-2 hub from an Od tranny will not work in the 3-4 location of the regular tranny.

But again, what's going on?
If the tranny is not jumping out of gear, then the the synchronizers are fine irregardless of how they look. And if the brass is done it will be grinding gears at the shift. Many times if the tranny jumps out of gear during deceleration the clutch teeth can be back-cut and the gears returned to service.
And on a personal note, I prefer the feel of the old style stuff.

Oh, and please don't try and use synthetic oil in that box;it is way too slippery.If the synchronizers work at all, they will be slow. I had to mod all my cones to cast off that oil, in order to use that stuff, and it still shifted better with dyno-oil.
 
Never even driven a car with a a833. Finally going to be doing the swap. Figure I would make it the best I can so I don't have problems down the road. Sounds like a general rebuild is in order with the possibility of needing some gears do to teeth being worn.
Thanks for he info.
 
skep419 said:
Never even driven a car with a a833. Finally going to be doing the swap. Figure I would make it the best I can so I don't have problems down the road. Sounds like a general rebuild is in order with the possibility of needing some gears do to teeth being worn.
Thanks for he info.
Click to expand...

Only in rare cases, will you need any gears. The main thing to look at in the sychro's are the splines on the inner drums where the sleeves mate. The countershaft is another place that gets worn and makes everything "sloppy".

I run the O/D behind a high winding 273 and love it. I don't see the problem in a high power, light car. I just treat the "4th" gear as an O/D and not part of the performance gears to be power shifted. More as in highway cruising mode. Not too afraid of it either, come to think of it.
 
Just something else to think about. Bolt the Lakewood bellhousing to the engine block and sit it in the car. Bolt the transmission up and crossmember also. Trial fit the Z bar and clutch linkages and make sure everything lines up well. Members here have had issues with the Z bar not being lined up correctly with the ball stud bracket on the Lakewood bellhousing. Mine hooked up great wth no issues. With just the engine block you will have plenty of room to work and modify if needed. Maybe you will be lucky like I was and it will fit with no issues. Good luck.
 
i just figured if the steel are stronger and I could find a set for next to nothing. let em buck.
 
duster360 said:
Just something else to think about. Bolt the Lakewood bellhousing to the engine block and sit it in the car. Bolt the transmission up and crossmember also. Trial fit the Z bar and clutch linkages and make sure everything lines up well. Members here have had issues with the Z bar not being lined up correctly with the ball stud bracket on the Lakewood bellhousing. Mine hooked up great wth no issues. With just the engine block you will have plenty of room to work and modify if needed. Maybe you will be lucky like I was and it will fit with no issues. Good luck.
Click to expand...

good info.
 
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