T-56 Transmission Install Thread



Project EH-Body
Sep 13, 2009
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Windsor, ON, Canada
We need to start getting threads stickied in the New Gen Hemi forum as it's been alot of the same questions.

I grabbed this list from Bill Reilly over at bigblockdart.com and I'll add to it and modify once I figure more out.

Differences between the T-56 Viper and T-56 GM and T-56 Magnum (new Challenger)

If theres a fill plug directly on top right behind bell face, it's a T6060. If no fill plug, it's a T56.

GM/Ford T56/6060 - 8.25 input shaft
Viper T56/6060 - 8.25 input shaft, but 7.25 from bell mounting face. GM bell is 1" deeper than Viper.

TR6060 requires slight clearancing on bottom of quiktime bell. Just a small grinder notch to clear the casting

Parts required for install

Quicktime Bell B/RB/Hemi - #RM-8073

QUICKTIME includes some trans mounting bolts, but they suck. Get your own G8 bolts.
----- 8 - 3/8-16 X 1.5" Grade 8 for trans to bell
----- (7) 3/8-16 X 1" grade 8 with lock nuts for block plate to bell
----- (2) 7/16 X 2" grade 8 with lock nuts for bell to block
----- (4) 3/8-16 X 1.25" grade 8 for bell to block
For starter bolts, use 2 of the Quicktime socket head bolts

B/RB/Hemi steel 10.5” flywheels 130 tooth internal balance - RAM-1503 - 6-bolt
- RAM-1583 - 8-bolt
- McLeod 8-bolt - 464100

Clutch ---- 10.472" HD diaphragm style AMC, Buick, Pontiac, Chevy - ACT# GM012
Disc-------- 10.5" street/strip organic AMC, Buick, Chevy - ACT# 3000903
Pilot Bearing – Dakota roller bearing – MP#53009180 or custom. Fits large hole, crank drilling for stick is not required. Tremecs all have 3/4" pilot like regular 4spds.


If block plugs are not flush or recessed, you have to drill clearance holes in plate.

Viper hyd. throw-out bearing - Mopar #05037357AB mounting bolts - (2) 8mm - 1.25 X 25mm long
Viper throw-out bearing adapter fitting - Russell #640281 - allows -3AN braided hose

Trans mount, poly GM-style - Energy #3.1108 Trans bolts - 10mm - 1.25 X 25mm long

Slip Yolk – T56 30-spline - common small seal – Not sure if this is all T56 or just GM ones.
- TR6060 30-spline - large seal - Mopar part#5093385AA - maybe viper T56 also. This # might be whole viper driveshaft, but I couldnt locate just the slip yolk separately.

Shifter - Hurst Pro-Billet (Mustang T56) #391-5036 - GOOD A-BODY LOCATION
Ford Cobra 6spd leather knob #M-7213-B

T56 speedo – best method – Autometer electronic speedo is direct connect. Or use street-rod style converter kit for cable drive.
TR6060 has no VSS – Haneline has GPS sensor kits http://www.haneline.com Connect to Autometer speedo
- FAST Systems driveshaft speed sensor kit - 1.875 collar(8.75mopar yolk) #301437
MUST USE BILLET YOLK - if 7290ujoint, yolk must be turned to fit sensor collar. 1310 billet yolk has enough room to fit collar without machining. Cast yolks may not allow room for collar to fit.
FAST sensor is best method, as it has just 2 magnets - pulse count is low enough to work without a signal converter box. Other collars I found have 4 magnets, making the pulse count too high to wire direct to speedo.

FAST sensor requires small bracket to attach to top of center section.

Use cheapo 12v - 5v reducer for sensor and wire sensor directly to Autometer electronic speedo. These are commonly had with a lighter socket plug on them - just cut off the plug and wire it under the dash.

This is it for now, I'll update as I go on...

I've just found out that the LT1 T56 has a shorter input shaft at 7.25 instead of the 8.25 like the Viper/LS1 T56. This can still be used but you'll have to change the input shaft. This negates the cost of a LT1 T56.

I had to trim the input shaft on my T-56 to get it to mate up to the Hemi. I think is was about an 1/8". Now regretting it. Hopefully I don't run into any issues with it being 1/8" too short in the V10.
Wish I could update the first post but the Edit button is MIA.

Quicktime Bellhousing for:

Big Block to Viper T56 is #RM-8073
Big Block to Chevy LS1 T56 is #RM-6077
5.7 / 6.1 / 6.4 to Viper T56 is # RM-8077
5.7 / 6.1 / 6.4 to Chevy LS1 T56 is # RM-8078
Smallblock to Viper T56 is # RM-8074
Smallblock to Chevy T56 is # RM-6076

More info...

Small Block Mopar (LA) and 3G HEMI is Quick Time P/N RM8074. The bell has a 6.697” bell depth (add .125 for the block plate for total depth) Uses the standard 2-Bolt starter from Mopar. 130 tooth fly wheel must be used.

Big Block Mopar (B & RB) is Quick Time P/N RM8073. The bell has a 6.697” bell depth (add .125 for the block plate for total depth) Uses the standard 2-Bolt starter from Mopar. 130 tooth fly wheel must be used.

3G HEMI ONLY – 08/09 Challengers - Quick Time P/N 8077. The bell has a 7.300” bell depth (add .125 for the block plate for total depth. Use stock 3G HEMI starter that is located on the passenger side of the vehicle. Must use the original flywheel and clutch assembly (65 #’s in weight – all cast iron). This bell housing is NOT recommended for the retrofitting into older muscle cars. Current year use only

I'll do my best to get all the info added to the first post.

Great thread Riddler! Thank you, linking in my resto thread for future use.
If you guys doing the swap have pictures of the parts listed and such please post them. My goal is to make a complete T56 install thread with how-to's, tips, tricks and pics.

I'm no where close to that, but I will take pictures and post them when I get to that point. For right now, ladder bar rear suspension installation is my goal.
As soon as my truck sells I plan to take the plunge and get a t56 Magnum. My plans are to use a factory A body shift handle and hopefully retain the bench seat.
Just some pictures of the QuickTime 8073 bellhousing...


Here's the starter area of the bellhousing where one bolt hole doesn't line up.

The hardware provided is crappy grade 5 stuff. I bought some grade 8 stuff to replace.



Here's the bellhousing mounted to the trans along with the Hurst Pro Billet shifter.


Thanks for the thread, makes me eager to get started on my build!

Is it as long as it looks in the pictures? Where does the shifter come through the floor at?
Would it be possible to get some overall dimensions of the trans (or at least from the front of the bellhousing to the tail shaft)? I keep thinking about swapping to an overdrive setup, but seeing as I just dropped a fair chunk of money on a custom aluminum driveshaft and new yokes front and rear I'm curious what all I'll have to change. Is the output shaft common to any other Mopar trans?
On a Viper takeout trans it uses a 727 yoke. A tr6060 Viper takeout uses 727 splines but a bigger diameter slip and seal (08-10). I'm not at home so I can't pull a tape for an overall length but back of block to shifter is 27". About anything you swap to from a 727 is going to take a longer dshaft.
I've actually got an 833 in mine now, if I had to shorten the shaft I wouldn't mind quite as much, but life would be sunshine and roses if I didn't have to mess with it. I need a new rear gear set, but what sucks is I just bought a brand new rear yoke for what I had (coarse spline), but I can't find any aftermarket ring and pinions that are coarse spline for a 741 case. It would suck to have to replace both my brand new 1350 front and rear yokes.

Looks good, really like the detailed tech information. Even though I'm not doing a T56/6060 I really like the information.


Joe Dokes
Ok, so i have been reading this thread and I really want to do the swap.. especially now that my 904 is taking a ****. I have a few questions... I am putting the t56 in my 69 Dart, what is the best/ least amount of fabrication t56 to get? Also, what do i need as far as pedals and slave cylinder go?

Stock pedals should work fine as far as I can tell, you can adapt them to about whatever you want for the most part. There are some mechanical clutch linkage T56 setups out there, though I don't know that I've heard of anyone trying that in a Mopar just yet. You should be able to use whatever slave goes with the trans you get (Viper, GM, etc) if you go the hydraulic way. You're on your own for a master, but there are plenty of generic ones out there that you can get. The big thing is just trying to match bore and stroke to whatever slave you pick to make sure you have enough volume to disengage the clutch. You can tune pedal feel with bore size, but you have to have enough stroke to move the throwout.

Sweet looking car by the way!

Ditto on the look of your car, good clean hot rod. Did you take the photo, if so, good lighting, good angle, like the industrial look.

Here's a hydraulic throw-out kit, that would probably work with a T-56. At worst you might have to change the throw-out / slave cylinder to the correct one for a T-56. http://www.hotrodhydraulics.com/MOPAR-Product.htm

I just read over on a different thread concerning a members 6.1L Kenne Bell Supercharged Hemi build that every time he turned around he had spent another thousand dollars. A lot of time when you begin a build you price out all the big parts like transmission, engine, headers etc. but what eats you alive is the little stuff.

This is a good example, you do some back of the envelop calculations and include the big stuff, the transmission, bell housing, flywheel and pressure plate, but you forget about some of the little stuff like a hydraulic clutch, Boom now you've got to spend $618.00. A couple of miscalculations like this and the price of the project explodes.

I'm not saying this particular product is overpriced. I'm simply saying, you better sharpen that pencil and do your homework because this gets pricey FAST. :wack:

Anyways, best of Luck, and thanks again Riddle for sharing the details, Knowledge like you're supplying can save us all a lot on our builds.


Joe Dokes
That is one thing that has always baffled me on pricing, hydraulic conversion kits. The master and slave aren't really that expensive on their own, maybe $100 each if that, and the little pivoting mount that holds the master is just two pieces of bent plate... How that adds up to $600+ is a mystery to me.
That is one thing that has always baffled me on pricing, hydraulic conversion kits. The master and slave aren't really that expensive on their own, maybe $100 each if that, and the little pivoting mount that holds the master is just two pieces of bent plate... How that adds up to $600+ is a mystery to me.

The mystery is in the ability to fabricate, and the knowledge of how various parts fit together. When you see a lot of kits for sale, a good percentage of the price is the knowledge needed to put the kit together. For example, disc brake kits. You can piece together a disc brake kit fairly inexpensively, especially if you are willing to use some used parts, like spindles and upper control arms. When you buy the kit your paying for someone else's knowledge of what parts will work on your car, and a premium for some new parts.

When I looked at the hydraulic brake kits you'll notice that they have a bracket only kit for $189.00.


Now if you think you can make that bracket for less than $189.00 go for it. In my experience you should pencil it out first because in my experience sometimes it's cheaper/easier to give someone else some profit before you have to make two prototypes and then a final working unit.

I swear my family's motto is, "You Can't Win," because every time I say something like, I could make that WAY cheaper, it ends up taking three times as long and costing twice as much.


Joe Dokes