T-56 Transmission Install Thread

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DA4AD said:
Do not cut the drive shafts until the new trans it installed!!!
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I've got the trans bolted to the engine now and my best guess at a driveline angle set, but don't have the numbers I originally used when I ordered my driveshaft. Bought the car with one that I'm pretty sure was too long to begin with, so I customed ordered a new one when I did my rear end swap. Just curious if anyone else has gone from a 4 spd to a Viper T56 and remembers what they did for their driveshaft. Looks like most swaps I've found aren't using the real deal Viper trans. Seen a TR6060 and a T56 Magnum, but not as many plain Jane T56s. Was hoping someone had a visually identical trans to me that could chime in.
 
72BBSwinger said:
Viper/LS have same input shaft length. LT1's dont have the front adapter plate on the trans, and that is where the difference is. I wouldn't use an LT1 version since they were not designed to take more than about 300 ft/lbs.
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That's not entirely correct as you're speaking of the early version and that's understandable coming from a Moparian...

93 LT1 T56
Borg Warner T56 6-speed Manual
Gear Ratios : 3.36, 2.07, 1.35, 1.00, .80, .62
& 2.97, 2.07, 1.43, 1.00, .80, .62
Spline : 26 input/27 output
Dimensions :
Torque Rating : 350 lb-ft & 400 lb-ft

94-97 LT1 T56
Borg Warner T56 6-speed Manual
Gear Ratios : 2.66, 1.78, 1.30, 1.00, .74, .50
Spline : 26 input/27 output
Dimensions :
Torque Rating : 450 lb-ft
 
Map63Vette said:
I've got the trans bolted to the engine now and my best guess at a driveline angle set, but don't have the numbers I originally used when I ordered my driveshaft. Bought the car with one that I'm pretty sure was too long to begin with, so I customed ordered a new one when I did my rear end swap. Just curious if anyone else has gone from a 4 spd to a Viper T56 and remembers what they did for their driveshaft. Looks like most swaps I've found aren't using the real deal Viper trans. Seen a TR6060 and a T56 Magnum, but not as many plain Jane T56s. Was hoping someone had a visually identical trans to me that could chime in.
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I had Action Machine build me an aluminum shaft. Word of caution, a 3.5" has a tendency to hit trans tunnel during axle wrap. If your ride height is low make sure you have little to no axle wrap.
 
That's who I had build mine the first time around. I think I have a 3.5", though it might just be a 3", I'd have to measure again. I haven't had any trouble with stuf hitting to my knowledge yet, but I also have an earlier car, so maybe that has something to do with it. Called around yesterday and found a place that will shorten it for a reasonable price, so will likely go that route as opposed to trying to sell it and buy a new one.

Also, for what it's worth it looks like I may only need to shorten in three inches when I mocked it up in the car. How much yoke do you have showing past the edge of the trans seal?
 
Sounds about the same as what I'm seeing on mine if I shorten it three inches. Tried to figure out how much spline engagement I have. Seems like quite a bit, but may have to do a little more research.

On a totally different note, what have people done for connectors for the solenoids and reverse switch? They look like fairly standard connectors, but didn't know if anyone has sourced them yet. Will need the reverse lockout solenoid, VSS, and reverse switch. Can technically get by without any of them at the moment, but would really like to try to wire them up now while I have the extra room.
 
eBay for the connectors. I think like $21 for all 3.

I'm still sourcing flywheel and clutch. Suggestions? I'm using a viper t56.

Riddler
 
Riddler said:
eBay for the connectors. I think like $21 for all 3.

I'm still sourcing flywheel and clutch. Suggestions? I'm using a viper t56.

Riddler
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The drive shaft from 727 slides right in and appears to be the right length for this swap. '71 Scamp, viper-56, 8.75 rear end with 1350 joints. Just adding my info, been following the thread while I waste money on mine....Good Luck to all.
 
Is there a difference between a Viper and GM VSS? Will look closer when I get home, but I thought my VSS had three wires on it as opposed to two. Also, does anyone happen to know the particular connector part numbers (like Delphi or Metri-Pak numbers, not GM)? Pretty sure I can get them through work cheaper than the Ebay set, and since it looks like I'll need a different VSS anyway I think piecemeal might be my best bet.

I went with a RAM clutch on my setup (309M was the part number for the disk at least), but mainly because I already have a RAM pressure plate from the 4 speed. Figured it would be better to at least keep the same manufacturer to try to limit any potential issues between a Dodge pressure plate and GM clutch disk. As for flywheels, unless things have changed in the past few years I think there were only two options for a 130 tooth 3G Hemi (which I think I recall you saying you were using). There's a steel and aluminum version, but only one manufacturer that I've found.
 
727 yoke interchanges with Viper trans. Flywheel wise there is an American Powertrain part # sold through I think through Jegs for like $328, cheapest ive found. There are some aluminum Mopar ones still floating around on ebay for $375 but they dont seem to have a steel wear surface from the pics. I used a GM012 ACT pressure plate and a used Zoom disc on my last setup and it worked fine. I have the pressure plate if someone needs it, I would let it go for $100 plus shipping if anyone wants it, has no noticable wear at all.
 
Not sure if it applies to the viper trans, but a word of caution regarding transmission yokes.
If you use the 545RFE trans a 727 yoke will physically fit and has the same # of splines, but should not be used as there is a slight difference in how the splines are cut that allows some extra movement.
 
DA4AD said:
OK, after a lot of searching I finally found a T56 six speed to use but I have a few questions. Trans came from a 2008 SRT 8 Challenger.
1) This trans comes complete with following parts;
- Aluminum flywheel.
- Dual disc clutch.
- Bell housing.
- Complete shifter.
Which of the above parts do I need for a 340 and whats the value of the parts i don't need?
2) Should I keep the stock Challenger hydraulic throw out bearing?
3) What should I use for a front drive shaft yoke? The stock challenger one seams to use a flange type setup.
4) Whats a fair price for this complete package? Just don't want to spend more than I should be.
:burnout:
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have you figured out the rear slip yoke yet ?
 
Well, my swap is finally pretty much done. Got it back on the road yesterday. Need to tidy up a few things like a shifter boot and handle, but it moves under its own power again at last. The next project is figuring out the speedo. I'd like to keep the stock one because I don't want to dump a bunch more money into the dash and new gauges. I have a few microcontrollers around the house anyway, so I'm going to see if I can't make something up myself to save money. $300 for the CableX converter just seems way to high to me.
 
If you take off the flange type yoke is there still a standard splined output shaft under it? You might be able to still just use a regular slip yoke once the flange is removed, but it's hard to say without looking at it.
 
I purchased the RAM 1583 130 tooth billet flywheel today. But I got to thinking, I don't have the flywheel bolts.

Does anyone know what size flywheel bolts I need? I'm planning to buy ARP bolts as I've always had trouble with flywheel bolts.

Thanks,

Riddler
 
So, just to make sure...

LS1 T56 has 8.25" bell depth

Challenger TR6060 has 7.3" bell depth

Bells can be swapped to each other

http://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/p/__/HOUSING-Clutch/6890646/68061184AA.html

Mopar oem bell is quite reasonably priced. Anyone has used that on 3gen Hemi & LS1 T56 swap?

I need to take my gearbox apart and maybe dont mind if need to shorten input shaft.

Does Quicktime bellhousing need check /re-adjust their centering?
 
Factory Challenger Bell had passenger side starter. LS1, Viper and tr6060 all share same bell housing depth. The 8.3" is LT1 depth.
 
I am in (have been) in the process of a T56 swap in my '93 SC Tbird, and have found out a few things. There is a difference in the clutch adapter plate (front of Trans housing) the GM slave bolt holes clock the slave differently than the Fords and Viper units. I bought a remained unit for an Y2K LS1 Camaro. Turned out that the CAP was a Viper unit (mine is a BW Trans, not a Tremec) while the rest of the Trans was GM.

Speedo was solved by using a Dakota Digital converter.

Longer than needed input shaft can be mostly solved with a scalloped spacer between the CAP and the bell adapter (I had to use a 0.50" spacer) and longer locator pins.
Also, if a spacer plate is used, a slave shim may need to be used. Mine was about 0.40" thick (local machinist after my search netted 'no longer made, to over $50)

I used a Viper slave (it's clocked same as FoMoCo) and the Q-D was compatable.
The GM hyd. Line has a restrictor that can cause slave pump-up during rapid clutch work.

I used the LS1 due the stock shifter location being so far back.

I also used a GM pilot Brg with a bronze sleeve (made by local machinist) to fit the Blue oval crank hub.

I have changed from my path of OEM force-inducted V6 to a N/A BBF. But, with the exception of bell adapter, flywheel and clutch assy., it all transfers over.

I used the Hurst Billet shifter with my original shifter stick and knob.

Good luck
MikeH
 
MikkoV said:
So, just to make sure...

LS1 T56 has 8.25" bell depth

Challenger TR6060 has 7.3" bell depth

Bells can be swapped to each other

http://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/p/__/HOUSING-Clutch/6890646/68061184AA.html

Mopar oem bell is quite reasonably priced. Anyone has used that on 3gen Hemi & LS1 T56 swap?

I need to take my gearbox apart and maybe dont mind if need to shorten input shaft.

Does Quicktime bellhousing need check /re-adjust their centering?
Click to expand...

Along with the factory bell being a passenger side starter, it's also quite large and uses the 143 tooth flywheel. I went the Quicktime route on my swap to keep the 10.5" clutch in the hopes of limiting sheet metal mods. In the end I still pretty much had to cut all the way up to the pinch weld on the firewall and floorpan and take out that piece in case I ever felt like removing the bellhousing again (it would make bolt access near impossible if the pinch weld seam was still there once the floorpan was installed.

I used a transmission directly out of a Viper with no mods other than shortening the input shaft a little. I measured it all out to be sure and ended up taking off around 0.5" as I recall. Part of this is because I'm running a register style pilot bushing. If the crank was actually drilled for an input shaft I probably wouldn't have needed to shorten things.

In regards to centering, several people have said that it was a good idea and that they found their's off some, but I just went with what I had. It's a hard piece to measure to begin with due to the odd flange on the bellhousing for the T56, but I also have a fairly mild combination, so I'm not real worried. Things have held together just fine so far and it's definitely made the drive more enjoyable. Lots of work stuffing it all in, but the first time you click it into one of the two overdrives it's worth it. Still not seeing the gas mileage I was hoping for, but have been messing with the tune to see if I can't fix that.
 
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