tale of $5.28 wasted....

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Thanks for responding, but im a little confused by the circles and x. What do you mean no reason to do this at all?
 
nashvegas99 said:
Thanks for responding, but im a little confused by the circles and x. What do you mean no reason to do this at all?
Click to expand...

I thought I explained this pretty clearly. Did you read my post? Look at the photo I edited. The circled screw is the same electrical point that you spent all the trouble trying to solder. The stud and nut I highlighted on the other terminal is the same thing on the other terminal

And the X is the the same point as where the trace goes to the correspoding contact a MUCH easier place to solder to than where you picked
 
It does look like the heat sink will short to those circuits passing underneath.
Good luck with it.
 
There is 4.9 v coming out of the wire connector to the sender. I have the sender grounded from the outlet tube to the trunk floor (cleaned and ground area). New gas tank, new sender, recently purchased gauges from FABO user (thank you so much again). When i turn the key and she fires up there isnt any movement or anything from the fuel gauge needle. The temp gauge works and climbs slowly.
 
If you have 5V on one end of the gauge, and ground on the other, and it won't move, you have a problem with the gauge.

Make certain the stud nuts are not the problem
 
i think that I need to take out the short cut method and just buy one of the reducers to start with. first step, then check to see if the gauge works. I was told that a very brief touch with a 9 volt battery would make the needle jump and not sever the filament to check it. Is that correct? Its a brand new gas tank, brand new sending unit and the gauges were purchased from someone on here. He said they had been tested and worked, so I have no reason not to believe him. If replacing the voltage limiter doesn't work, what should the next step be to check everything?

thanks again for the education and learning. I really appreciate the words.
 
could there maybe another ground somewhere that is loose or something? just wondering because my drivers headlight now doesn't work on dim, only bright. it did before I removed and reinstalled the cluster. maybe something loose on the ignition switch or the headlight switch. I've tried to follow the wiring schematics, but that's like some form of hieroglyphics or something.
 
hacksaw said:
all the smoke got out of my dash on an old 666 fury i had once trying to do that once .... only once
Click to expand...


Yeah... Once all the smoke comes out of an electrical system - it's useless. Found that out as a rookie, then had it explained proper-like when I was older.
 
The gauges both work when small juice put to them. Think today im going to be getting a limiter and putting it all back together (thanks nitro). I am pretty sure that will fix it then i am moving on to the leaf springs.
 
here's the deal... the gauges operate on supplied voltage of about 5 volts and respond to a resistance of 80 to 10 ohms. Once the parts inside the gauge are spent, higher voltage and/or lower ohms would move the needle where proper current values would not. Below are 2 of the 100 or more pics I have on this hard drive alone.
temp gauges rarely read above half way. They operate cooler. They last longer. I'm surprised to open a fuel gauge and find it isn't toasted.
 

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Well, thnks to nitro i have the reducer inplace. Now the fuel gauge works like it should and climbs to 3/4 which is close to whats in the tank. However the temp gauge immediately goes o past hot "h". If i take he ednd of it off of the temp sender, it slowly falls back to c. Bad sender itself?
 
another update on the neverending saga of my gauges...put in the voltage limiter and the fuel gauge worked fine but the temp gauge read way past full. checked wiring and thought I found the cause...a small nick in the wiring. corrected that and it still went to full. so, off to the store to get a new sending unit. put that in last night and then turned everything on and the gauge went all the way past empty and then climbed nonstop to past full. well, then it didn't do anything. guess what....that gauge is burned out too. so ticked off about this. any suggestions from anyone?

Now I need to find another temp gauge that won't break the bank.
 
I'm wondering if I can take a gauge like this and then use the face of the old gauge to attach to the round body of one like this.
Omix-Ada 17209.05 Temperature Gauge Set​

41gp9ZvF7-L.jpg
 
I'm going to post again for anyone who has a temp gauge for sale. I have 3 cores - 2 temp and one fuel that may or may not be of any use. I guess until then, I can just buy one of those cheapo aftermarket sunpro or omdx temp gauge and hook it up.

Who on here rebuilds those old gauges?
 
Check on ebay. Shouldn't be too hard to find. I bought a temp gage fairly cheap (~$20) for my 64 Valiant right away, then soon after found a full set for about the same (~$25) so grabbed that. Before that, I fixed my gage (post) so "should work" and 2 on the shelf. Not correct gages for your 65.

Main thing you need with classic cars is a lot of shelf space so you can buy stuff before it breaks, and when you see a good deal. No sense scrounging later for a rare part when you really need it. I even buy ahead for my newer cars when I see a closeout deal on rockauto or such, for wear items like brake parts. Beats having to run to the store and paying 4x the price. Don't fret about being stuck with parts if you sell the car. These parts will only increase in value.

Before searching, test if your gage is actually bad. That is the smarter way to fix things. Substitute a resistor to ground for the sensor. I forgot the values, but a search here would find it. I recall posting on that within the last year.
 
great advice Mr. Grissom. thank you. I do know the gauge is bad, took the face off and the filament wire on both post is burned in several places. I've been looking around for the gauges, but apparently the small round ones that go into the round gauge clusters are pretty few and far between.
 
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