Taming the shift on my trans

-
furyus2

furyus2

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 30, 2010
Messages
2,419
Reaction score
907
Location
weeki wachee fl
I have a full manual valve body in my 64 Sport Fury. When it shifts, it's so hard, it shakes the whole dash. Worse when cold. Worse on the 2-3shift. Any way to soften it up? Line pressure? It's a Cheetah VB.
 
How’s the accumulator set up? Weak spring? Strong spring? No spring? Locked out with a small rod? You want an oem spring in the accumulator with a manual valve body if you’re experiencing hard shifts. If you already have the spring in there, you need to have the line pressure checked and adjusted if necessary
 
Last edited:
IMO full manual sux on the street.......... I would convert it back to semi-auto with a carb-mounted line-pressure modulator, ie KD linkage; and the aforementioned accumulator spring. That will give you the best of both worlds, and your driveline will thank you for it, not to mention the fillings in your teeth.
 
AJ/FormS said:
IMO full manual sux on the street.......... I would convert it back to semi-auto with a carb-mounted line-pressure modulator, ie KD linkage; and the aforementioned accumulator spring. That will give you the best of both worlds, and your driveline will thank you for it, not to mention the fillings in your teeth.
Click to expand...

my 68 fastback ,505" is fully auto. , and hits 3rd so hard it worries me a little. If its not pulling when it shifts. I backed the shift cable off about a hair less than an 1/8" and it helped , any more affects the 1-2nd shift too much. = compromise.
 
Thanks guys! I think i will try the accumulator spring.
Isn't there a large, and a small spring that goes in there? If so, should I use both springs?
I thought about going back to a throttle pressure setup, but if I go that way, i will just build another trans, since this one suffers from converter drain back. Plus, I'm not sure if it has a governor in it anymore. Thanks again for the help.
 
You’re thinking of the 2 band servos w/ 2 springs.

Accumulator is between both servos and the spring is located between the piston and the valve body. When pulling the valve body, on-vehicle, the spring usually falls out and rolls away.
 
Drilling a hole in the valve body while trying to install a drain plug did the trick on mine. Can't feel it shift at all now.
 
My 1-2 shift is BRUTAL. Like the trans wants to come up through the floor, but the 2-3 is firm but smooth. Full manual, but looking to convert back to auto/manual.

What’s the hotness right now?
 
An extreamly hard shift can be confused with improper 1-2 overlap. The result is being in both gears at the same time for a split second.

It is when the rear band is still hanging on when it should be fully released, and the front band is already applied or prematurely applied. Usually a nice band adjustment will correct this.
 
So, would this be true for the 2-3 shift also? That's the worst one. Also, it smoothes out after it's warmed up on both shifts, and the higher the RPM, rhe softer it shifts. Any thoughts on this?
 
A band adjustment never hurts. Might as well do one while you’re in there adding the accumulator spring. Although you may need a line pressure adjustment after all.
 
Installing an accumulator spring may or may not help because some manual valve bodies have the accumulator circuit blocked internally. It's worth a try but no guarantee. The softer the spring the softer the shift. If you need one i have one you can have for the cost of shipping. just PM me. A lower front band apply ratio should help. All the Cheetah's I've done called for a 5.0 lever but that's to make them shift the firmest. Installing a 3.2 should soften it up a fair amount. The front band apply lever mostly affects the 1-2 shift but if your trans is overlapping on the 2-3 shift it'll clean it up too. Even backing off the front band adjustment should help some. Just don't back it off so much it slips cause that'll toast it.
 
I like taking a peek at the valve pressure setting, what is that going to cost you?
 
furyus2 said:
It's very close to that. :eek:
Click to expand...
mine does, its aluminum and has a spring on it, I did that when I was doing a rewire and installing the hotrod heater and fuel inj., so I could get in to the dash easier and faster. (glove box door)
My trans was built as a street strip auto, I`m not going to change anyway.
 
Last edited:
AJ/FormS said:
Sometimes I have to retrieve my keys from the rear seat area, after a shift where the tires get a good bite.
Click to expand...
^^^those are the good shifts but the real fun shifts are the ones where you got to go back home and retrieve a new pair of under underwear! That's the one we're second gear hits, but gets way way way loose lol and you barely bring it back in....
 
When the back steps out, I opposite steer and nail the gas. When it comes full circle, I ease up on the pedal, and steer out of it.
Sometimes I just go into the ditch backwards; it's easier on the oilpan, and if I need a tug, it's already pointing in the right direction.
Sometimes, if she's moving in a clear direction, I just lock all 4 up and scrub some speed off.
Sometimes I have to stop the car , get out, go over to the passenger side, and haul the hysterical passenger out, and leave him on the curb. Ok I made that one up.
But I'm a streeter so speeds are only rarely over 60mph. No "accidents" since 1999.
I only have one pair of under shorts. I'll be 65 next week, but my sphincter is like ..... 21
 
Last edited:
Ok. I bought a core transmission for a good price. I'm thinking of rebuilding it myself. Keeping the throttle pressure. Maybe a shift kit. Any recommendations for a rebuild kit with all the parts included (not shift kit parts). Also, should I use a bolt in sprag? Who makes a good one? What about pressing the bushings in properly?
Car has a 440+.030, .515 Hughes cam. 750 race Demon, RPM intake, 3600 pound car, with 3.91 locker. Ran a best of 12.12@110.
I want to keep the performance, and to be able to manual shift when I want, but automatic when cruising.
 
furyus2 said:
Ok. I bought a core transmission for a good price. I'm thinking of rebuilding it myself. Keeping the throttle pressure. Maybe a shift kit. Any recommendations for a rebuild kit with all the parts included (not shift kit parts). Also, should I use a bolt in sprag? Who makes a good one? What about pressing the bushings in properly?
Car has a 440+.030, .515 Hughes cam. 750 race Demon, RPM intake, 3600 pound car, with 3.91 locker. Ran a best of 12.12@110.
I want to keep the performance, and to be able to manual shift when I want, but automatic when cruising.
Click to expand...
Most of the time the bushings are Ok. For-sure get a shift kit, and probably a governor kit.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top