So Dan, is that a permanent brick wall imprint on your forehead?
I know it's a little late, but, like Chuck was saying, those filters use a 16mm x 1.5 metric bubble fitting. That's why the 3/8 inverted flare adapter leaked.
Tech tip for fuel filter
- Thread starter 64X2
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So Dan, is that a permanent brick wall imprint on your forehead?
I know it's a little late, but, like Chuck was saying, those filters use a 16mm x 1.5 metric bubble fitting. That's why the 3/8 inverted flare adapter leaked.
66plyValiant
Well-Known Member
yupp a :banghead: works well in this situation
Well I do commend the OP for trying to get rid of rubber connectors and clamps
BACK IN THE MID 70's I had ONE piece of hose up in the engine bay. It connected the fuel line to the carb and was about TWO DAMN INCHES long, and it was about TWO DAMN YEARS old. This was "name brand stuff" back then.
One day I started the car and "smelled something" but was not sure. By the time I got out, popped the hood, saw the smoke, ran back and grabbed the key, it was on fire. ruptured piece of hose.
I think your only two mistakes 'may' have been
mismatch of fittings --- many new 'stuff' is proprietary, re the irritating Ferd "girdle" conndectors and PLASTIC fuel tube
and you may be trying to use a filter with too much back pressure.
It does NOT help that modern countermen don't know **** about fittings and connectors.
I used to be well versed in SAE, JIC, AN, and pipe, inverted flare, but I admit, even I get lost in the "bubble" that is metric.
METRIC **** ain't all the same, either. The "Franch" are different from the Germans, are different from the Japs in some cases.
(One of the local loggers bought a Polish feller/ buncher/ processor thing when they first came out. Everytime he dragged in a hydraulic hose, we cringed. Most of the time, we just sawed off the end and brazed the old fitting to a new hose end)
BACK IN THE MID 70's I had ONE piece of hose up in the engine bay. It connected the fuel line to the carb and was about TWO DAMN INCHES long, and it was about TWO DAMN YEARS old. This was "name brand stuff" back then.
One day I started the car and "smelled something" but was not sure. By the time I got out, popped the hood, saw the smoke, ran back and grabbed the key, it was on fire. ruptured piece of hose.
I think your only two mistakes 'may' have been
mismatch of fittings --- many new 'stuff' is proprietary, re the irritating Ferd "girdle" conndectors and PLASTIC fuel tube
and you may be trying to use a filter with too much back pressure.
It does NOT help that modern countermen don't know **** about fittings and connectors.
I used to be well versed in SAE, JIC, AN, and pipe, inverted flare, but I admit, even I get lost in the "bubble" that is metric.
METRIC **** ain't all the same, either. The "Franch" are different from the Germans, are different from the Japs in some cases.
(One of the local loggers bought a Polish feller/ buncher/ processor thing when they first came out. Everytime he dragged in a hydraulic hose, we cringed. Most of the time, we just sawed off the end and brazed the old fitting to a new hose end)
Being pretty nice calling them "countermen" ain't ya? They're more like key puncher/cashiers. YOU need to be responsible and know what you're doing and know your product. Especially if you're doing modifications.
slantsixdan
=..=
Go through that all the time. If I find myself going to O'Really or the like, I look up what I need on their website, see if it's in stock at the store I am going to and get the part number. I don't usually have a problem with just giving them the part number, but then I have been known to make a counter wad cry. (True story).
I work at o Reilly's and I am one of those countermen. My issue is and still is,not wanting any rubber fuel lines. My wife drives this as a daily driver and the fire happened while she was driving and it freaked her out badly. She has a Legit phobia of fire and that is what is driving my stubbornness in this situation. I want to make sure and double sure at that it does not happen again. I have always been very good about maintenance as both of my 64s make regular out of town, long distance trips. The rubber line that was less than a few months old failed and caused the fire. I am just trying to engineer something with safety in mind. My lack of ignorance or listening stems from that, I apologize for acting as though I was not listening. I value everyone's opinion and the weight it carries. Thank you everyone for your input.
I'm sure there must be a non-EFI fuel filter with U.S. inverted flare fittings, I just cannot remember what in 'ell they were used on. What do you have for pictorial guides for filters?
slantsixdan
=..=
Wait a sec, wait a sec: your wife is driving a 1964 Valiant, completely devoid of any safety engineering or construction, and she's a-skeered of an engine compartment fire that happened because you didn't assemble the fuel filter and fuel line correctly? Seriously? She does realize pre-1977 cars are a great deal more prone to fuel fires than post-1977 cars, right? She knows about shoulder belts (none), collapsible steering columns (none), side impact guard beams and rollover-safety structure (none), dual-circuit brake hydraulics (none), right? C'mon, dude, this is just getting silly. If she's afraid of fire, get her a car designed and built with safety in mind.
Sheesh. Done with this. Lotsa luck to ya.
(And no, I am not going to sell you a carburetor; I don't want to be responsible for the results.)
Sheesh. Done with this. Lotsa luck to ya.
(And no, I am not going to sell you a carburetor; I don't want to be responsible for the results.)
Bulldozer
free ice cream sandwiches
i'll sell you a carburetor
Dan your all out aggressive nature in this situation is uncalled for. What is the purpose of it, to prove your more intelligent than me?? I don't see anywhere that the advice was conducive to making the situation any better. Again if responding in the nature that you did is how you deal with people that don't agree with you then you must be a sad friendless person. I never claimed to be anything but curious about others ideas. If I choose not to accept or listen it doesn't devalue those ideas. It just is what it is, I tried taking it off board and PMing you ,you were still venomous with your reply. I hope that you can find some place of happiness as I seem to have taken it away with my actions. Have a nice and cheer up.
Wow. Must have been a cached page I replied to. Obviously you have been told it was a metric filter. Repeatedly.
I understand your desire to have a metal line on the pressure side. There are some ways to handle that. Better spend some time digging through the catalogs at your disposal looking for a filter with the proper thread.
I would use some insulating sleeve on the metal line, because of the known issue with heating.
B.
.
I understand your desire to have a metal line on the pressure side. There are some ways to handle that. Better spend some time digging through the catalogs at your disposal looking for a filter with the proper thread.
I would use some insulating sleeve on the metal line, because of the known issue with heating.
B.
.
Are you as savvy with helping customers and their automotive fittings as you were with the install in your wifes car? I don't mean to be rude, but if you had or have sold that setup to Joe Curbside, your lack of basic knowledge would put your employer in a precarious position.
You know what not that it matters one bit. I am done with this place. Thank you to all those that choose to stick to the subject and understood the whole working outside the box. This place is still a great resource and I will still send other here, hope they are not treated so disrespectfully.
I meant no disrespect at all. I'm being honest here. You had a decent idea, but you didn't even think of or know the difference in the fittings you were using. It almost created the same catastrophe that originally started your "out of the box" thinking. You work for a parts store. It's a prime opportunity to learn about how things work in your spare time.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
64x2,
If you are still listening, I want to apologize to all the comments above not related to your direct question, and especially those questioning your competence at your current job.
Unlike some, I don't consider 60's cars to be death traps. Indeed, I suspect that insurance groups have faked several (few) crash examples between new cars and classics, since their purpose was to demonstrate improvements. There are some fairly simple things you can do to improve the safety of your 1964, which you can read on FABO (dual MC, shoulder belts, ...).
Seems I have seen more burned up cars in parking lots since high-pressure fuel injection came along. Of course, I predicted this, so my observations may be biased.
I think your goal of eliminating all rubber in the fuel plumbing is smart. Let us know if you find something that works. Even scarier are some EFI aftermarket kits like the Holley Pro-jection I put in decades ago. Ships with an EFI filter w/ quick-connect fittings and just rubber hose and clamps. Never leaked, but I was always scared of the hose popping off w/ 20 psi.
If you are still listening, I want to apologize to all the comments above not related to your direct question, and especially those questioning your competence at your current job.
Unlike some, I don't consider 60's cars to be death traps. Indeed, I suspect that insurance groups have faked several (few) crash examples between new cars and classics, since their purpose was to demonstrate improvements. There are some fairly simple things you can do to improve the safety of your 1964, which you can read on FABO (dual MC, shoulder belts, ...).
Seems I have seen more burned up cars in parking lots since high-pressure fuel injection came along. Of course, I predicted this, so my observations may be biased.
I think your goal of eliminating all rubber in the fuel plumbing is smart. Let us know if you find something that works. Even scarier are some EFI aftermarket kits like the Holley Pro-jection I put in decades ago. Ships with an EFI filter w/ quick-connect fittings and just rubber hose and clamps. Never leaked, but I was always scared of the hose popping off w/ 20 psi.
slantsixdan
=..=
You're right. You've got enough hassle under the hood of your car without my adding to it on the screen of your computer.
I apologise.
Well after my failed attempt at trying to hand machine fittings to except an O-ring, I managed to only get one fitting that sealed the other one leaked this left me going back to the drawing board and rethinking the whole filter assembly. I went back to the catalogs to see if there were any in-line filters that we're not fuel injection style, the only one that I discovered that was inverted flare was one that fits Toyotas and Hundyias. *The only problem with the filter is it only excepts a M 14 X1 .5 mm fitting, but is still inverted flare. The store I work at did not carry the fittings I discovered that AutoZone and advanced auto under the AGS brand carries the tube nuts that excepts the 5/16 fuel line. *The two tube nuts had to be modified slightly with a file in order for them to seat properly in the filter. I then made two test lines with a air gauge on one end and a air control valve on the other end. I tested the filter at 10 to 12 psi as the fuel pump is only pushing 7 psi at the most. No leaks and installed. *Car runs, now on to other problems to solve.
Glad to see you stuck around and stuck to your project. Great job on doing your homework.
One issue you might take a look at is the filter mounting itself. It's mounted on the frame and you are running hard lines to and from it. This won't allow flexibility for engine movement. It's why the factory ran a rubber hose from the frame line to the fuel pump. The movement and vibration will work harded and eventually crack the line or the filter. If you attatch the filter to the block with a bracket you should be gold.
One issue you might take a look at is the filter mounting itself. It's mounted on the frame and you are running hard lines to and from it. This won't allow flexibility for engine movement. It's why the factory ran a rubber hose from the frame line to the fuel pump. The movement and vibration will work harded and eventually crack the line or the filter. If you attatch the filter to the block with a bracket you should be gold.
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