The great oil filter debate

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Ironracer said:
Advance is closer here ( less than a mile) but they pretty much suck, and don't have any stock like they used to. And I HATE Wally, I ain't been in one for almost a year. There's a Dollar General bout a mile away, not alot of auto parts, but you can get household stuff cheap. I had 3 Publix's within 1 mile to 2 miles at my last place ( damn, need to go rescue my 440, and drum set) there ain't much here but a WD. And they charge like Publix... 6 miles to AutoZone, and O'Reilly is Right next to it.. so it looks like the ones posted above , for me, anyway, cause a Purolator is 12 bucks... or Wix at O'Reilly. Or, if I plan ahead, just swing by one in the way home one day to avoid a 12 mile round trip
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If you REALLY plan ahead, you can use that Filter1(?) deal on FABO. Super good deal on WIX. Last dozen I bought from them was at least $3 cheaper per filter than anywhere else.
 
rustycowll69 said:
Free shipping if they add up to over $50.
I just ordered some for my wife's Cherokee. Usually over $10, got em for under $6 ea.
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So, about 10 filters... man, that's actually not a bad thing! Considering, filters here have wacked out prices, and most are crap... Thanks!
 
The last Wix filter I bought when I changed the oil on my ecodiesel Ram said made in china on the filter when I took it out of the box, didn't sit well. On the EngineMaster show both Wix filters they tested dropped oil pressure at the top of the rpm sweep, the only thing they figured was the bypass valve opened, it didn't drop a lot of pressure. But that caught my attention, because the last thing I would like to see is the bypass valve open at max rpm and dump oil pressure and send all the junk back through the engine.
 
Ironracer said:
My ironhead XLCR never came w/ one, none of those did. but that killer green Pennsylvania crude base oil (70w) keeps her lubed good..
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Back in the 70's I had a '71 XLCH 900 and a "72 XLCH 1000. After I rebuilt the '72 due to a broken ring gland I mounted a remote oil filter. Harley learned that you need a filter. Many of my buddies from the '60s all mounted remotes on their Pans. Air cooled is rough on oil. Post a pic of that Cafe Racer.
 
cosgig said:
I have to agree, and disagree with your assessment of the jobs that are out there for young folks. There’s plenty of trade jobs out there, and companies dying for any young folks who want to work. I’ve had my son come on a bunch of jobs with me, at 14 or so, he was helping me lay tile, he’s done carpentry, stonework, drywall, and a few other areas of building. However, the problem, and everybody knows it, is that young people just don’t want to work. Oh, they want the money, they just want to do as little as possible to get it.

Here’s a pic of my son doing some tile work at the horse barn where he rides, and one of us up north jacking up a friends cottage and putting in a foundation. He was a tweenie in these pics, and yes, I pay him very well.

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To bad more kids don't have a dad like you to take the time to teach them something they can use when they grow up. Life isn't just about cell phones like so many today believe. I know you're proud of him. btw...he does nice tile work too.
 
Ironracer said:
I like my 20-50 vr1 for the car, the 4.0 got 10w30 dinosaur oil. I think the synthetic thing is a market tactic. Yes, is supposed to last longer w/o thermal breakdown of viscosity, but it's still dirty after 2500 miles. . Just an opinion Sir
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And the non synthetic oil is the same dirty after 2500 miles. So which oil do you want at 2500 miles? And it’s not just viscosity stability that makes a synthetic oil far superior to mineral oil.
 
Hey guys here a trick I’ve been using for a very long time and it works. Next time get a quart of cheap oil and after you drain all the old stuff out pour in the cheap stuff and just let it run right thru. Do this the next few oil changes and you will not believe the difference at 2500 miles. Try it it’ll cost you less than 20 bucks.
 
RustyRatRod said:
For DECADES engines had no oil filter at all. And that was with the ancient oil blends. Just something to think about.
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...and those same engines were not punished at 8,000+ RPM a 1/4 mile at a time, or thrashed around circuit tracks for hours on end......just saying. :D
 
My aircraft engine runs pretty much full throttle for hours... nothing but a screen.... oil changes every 25 to 30 hours.
 
kiwigtx said:
...and those same engines were not punished at 8,000+ RPM a 1/4 mile at a time, or thrashed around circuit tracks for hours on end......just saying. :D
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Neither are most of the engines that we are speaking about.:)
 
Dana67Dart said:
Engine masters ("Oil filter Shootout" origional aird 12/32021) did a cut away and comparison of 10 or so oil filters, now they are doing some oil pressure and flow testing.

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The construction was so different between the filters.

The "winner" was K&N gold (10 micron filtration vs 20 to 60 for the others)
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Saw the episode....interesting stuff....
 
Dana67Dart said:
Engine masters ("Oil filter Shootout" origional aird 12/32021) did a cut away and comparison of 10 or so oil filters, now they are doing some oil pressure and flow testing.

View attachment 1715832039

The construction was so different between the filters.

The "winner" was K&N gold (10 micron filtration vs 20 to 60 for the others)
Click to expand...
It was a good episode.
I've mostly used Bosch filters.
If not those..then the crapa auto parts platinum line.
At the rate they get changed...it would be cheaper to do a filter change twice as often, maybe 3 times as often even than to buy k$n every 3m/6k

Anyhow..It's always nice to see what you've chosen to be of quality and does its job efficiently.
I quit using fram almost 2 decades ago, I found there stuff falls apart/sucks.
 
I only run oem filters.

If someone's getting wrung out when something fails under warranty, it's the oe manufacturer. Everyone else is free to say, "too bad!" and walk away.

Therefore, only the oe manufacturer has skin in the game.
 
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