The Replacement 2nd Gen Barracuda

[Stumpy]

While I'm waiting for parts thought I'd do a little detective work on the engine to see what it is. Looks like it's the original motor. I'm guessing it's been rebuilt. It's got a 4bbl, Holly and headers on it right now.

Numbers I could find on the block. So I know casting date and it was built at Mound Road and the original motor was recommended for regular gas.

PM318R
2536030.318
6.16.67

 

[Stumpy]

Pulled both the engine and dash harness. Lots of blue connectors and wire nuts and crispy wires. Drilled through firewall connectors for main power dash feed but was still connected to ammeter. Now waiting on back order of dash harness.

 

[Stumpy]

While I'm waiting for parts and everything is out of the dash I decided to clean up and paint the dash and start thinking about the interior end result.

I'm considering going to go back to the original H6V interior. That means White Vinyl seats and door cards which I'm not sure how enthusiastic I am about for this car. I'm at least returning to the original color all the metal parts were which lists as "dk red" in Hamtramck Historical. I've seen what looks like a very red color to more of a maroon color.

I was going to repaint the dash pad parts with a vinyl paint "maroon metallic" that was suggested but a sparkly dash just doesn't seem right. What was the original color?

If anyone has an original H6V interior they could take pictures of the various painted parts or better yet ran a spectrometer and came up with some paint formulas that could be mixed up I would appreciate it.

 

[Stumpy]

I've got zero paperwork on the car. I've done some more detective work and it's looking like the rebuild of this car was in the late 80s/ early 90s? It appears it was driven little after that. Though a few things were done, like a new stereo with USB and a Petronix distributor (the wiring still has a connector for a Mopar EI module). The stamp on the Holley carb is 4776-7 0387 and looks like it was just put on the car. The jacked up rear with SBP Centerlines and the front tires from before 2000 point all toward that theory.

 

[S'cuder]

While I'm waiting for parts and everything is out of the dash I decided to clean up and paint the dash and start thinking about the interior end result.

I'm considering going to go back to the original H6V interior. That means White Vinyl seats and door cards which I'm not sure how enthusiastic I am about for this car. I'm at least returning to the original color all the metal parts were which lists as "dk red" in Hamtramck Historical. I've seen what looks like a very red color to more of a maroon color.

I was going to repaint the dash pad parts with a vinyl paint "maroon metallic" that was suggested but a sparkly dash just doesn't seem right. What was the original color?

If anyone has an original H6V interior they could take pictures of the various painted parts or better yet ran a spectrometer and came up with some paint formulas that could be mixed up I would appreciate it.

If you're referring to the Herb's Parts interior vinyl paint, I wouldn't call the results sparkly. But I don't have experience with Metallic Maroon. Mine is Dark Metallic Green.
Personally, I like the maroon and white interior. It's eye catching, if not the best choice for jumping in for a test drive wearing greasy jeans.

 

[Stumpy]

If you're referring to the Herb's Parts interior vinyl paint, I wouldn't call the results sparkly. But I don't have experience with Metallic Maroon. Mine is Dark Metallic Green.
Personally, I like the maroon and white interior. It's eye catching, if not the best choice for jumping in for a test drive wearing greasy jeans.

Actually the paint I tried was a Metallic Maroon 526 OER paint I picked up from Classic. I painted some kick panels. It's not really sparkly but you can see flecks.

 

[4spdragtop]

While you're "in there" with wiring check the interior cargo lights. When I rewired our 67 most my harness' looked to be good BUT we're brittle. So entire car was done. Bulb holders for cargo lights were brittle and broke a blessing that I caught it. The bulb and holder was in VERY close proximity to touching metal. Its not hard to do and peace of mind.

 

[340sFastback]

I ordered new M&H rear wire harness from Year One and it did not have the harness and bulb holder for passengers side rear interior light. I had to get car together so used old harness and brittle cracked bulb holder. Yeah One doesn't list the pass side light harness which plugs into rear harness back by gas tank tube. So prob have to get straight from H&H or have Evans make you one. Another head ache typical car project type bull **** type of thing.....

 

[RedFish]

FWIW you may (or may not) have misunderstood me, I'm referring to the actual gauge face, not the cluster bezel... So you can use a fuel gauge from a 72 New Yorker for example & just swap the gauge face.... Assuming both gauges sweep in the same direction....

So, look at this...

NOS Mopar 1969-73 Fury 1971-73 Polara Monaco Instrument Panel Fuel Gauge | eBay

I dont think so. The rally gauge has a stand off screen attached totally different to the can.
I know the early fuel gauge is a 20 ohms instrument. Later with weightless pointer may very well be 13 ohms.

 

[RedFish]

I had a 67 with metallic red (no metal flake, just a metallic sheen). I also had a 68 with that darker maroon like red. There wasn't much of a metallic like sheen to it that I could tell. It was aged though.
The round kanob radio would not work well with the lower dash pads. Thus the creation of the dumb wheel type.
All the coins that ma mopar spent for safety concerns during 1967 did hit the streets in 68 but,,, DOT seat belt requirements turned their effort into wasted time and coins. Thus their one year only build. What did remain for 69 was that dumb wheel jukebox and lighter well up and through the PLASTIC dash bezel.
Passengers in back seat could reach to push the lighter. They could pull it too. It's when they tried to poke it back in the well that the bezels got burned in them.
I fixed my butched bezel and kept the DIN stereo. Just butched it a little more LOL

 

[4spdragtop]

Yep, when I spoke to MH about the bulb holder($10 each ) i asked about pass side courtesy harness. They would/will make it but would be a 6 month wait lol. Wasn't bad price wise, if I remember....$60...

I ordered new M&H rear wire harness from Year One and it did not have the harness and bulb holder for passengers side rear interior light. I had to get car together so used old harness and brittle cracked bulb holder. Yeah One doesn't list the pass side light harness which plugs into rear harness back by gas tank tube. So prob have to get straight from H&H or have Evans make you one. Another head ache typical car project type bull **** type of thing.....

 

[Stumpy]

Discovered why the heater was disconnected. This car is heater control door and assembly delete.

There are no clips because screws better? The hanger holding the vent plenum up is missing and the bracket broken AND drilled out from the bottom (HULK MAD HULK SMASH!!!)

*Sigh...Looks like I'm rebuilding a heater box over the winter.

Anyone have a decent heater box that can be rebuilt out there? I can possibly rebuild this one but there's a lot wrong with it.

The heater controls cleaned up nicely though.

 

[Stumpy]

I found this. Between the two I can probably put together a decent box.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/267361504679?

 

[RedFish]

We can get upside down quick but the aftermarket now offers a renew kit for that climate controller. The white plastic guides tend to fail. I don't know what that kit costs but while you have it out. Old friend used to say "replace everything from radiator cap down." I have to say do what you can while you're there simply because in some cases it's such a chore to get to it again. Front firewall to horn button fits the bill.
A post in parts wanted should get you a good heater case, maybe from a doner 68 fish too.

 

[RedFish]

I found this. Between the two I can probably put together a decent box.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/267361504679?

That listing isn't accurate. 68 model heat only has no vacuum servos. All doors cable operated.
Ebay sellers of used parts may not mean to mislead buyers. I found the hazard switch for our RAV4 there. Pictures perfect. Listing title said interior seat switch. Ours does have interior seats. For 10.07 shipped, I gambled with fingers crossed.

 

[Stumpy]

We can get upside down quick but the aftermarket now offers a renew kit for that climate controller. The white plastic guides tend to fail. I don't know what that kit costs but while you have it out. Old friend used to say "replace everything from radiator cap down." I have to say do what you can while you're there simply because in some cases it's such a chore to get to it again. Front firewall to horn button fits the bill.
A post in parts wanted should get you a good heater case, maybe from a doner 68 fish too.

I bought one of those kits and put the new guides in. The old one's were broken. Works great now. Work better if the heater box wasn't inoperable.

 

[Stumpy]

This is all that I really need to get the heater box working. Everything else I can probably repair.

I wonder if I can fabricate a heater control door. Found a pic. Looks pretty simple. Is the rod and door just hanging out in there and held in by the other half of the box?

Maybe someone has an old box with a usable one?

 

[4spdragtop]

@RAT ROD AL may have heater parts. There was a hole in pass side air box too where the hook mounted. I mixed up JB Weld and patched the hole, as well as put a small piece of metal in for reinforcement.
Fyi, relieve some of the tension off the metal "snaps" that hold the 2 bakelite halves together. WAAYYYY too tight and will break brittle bakelite with ease.
Post a want ad. No way I'd pay $300 for the ebay piece.
Oh the heater core, if no good i would have it rebuilt.

This is all that I really need to get the heater box working. Everything else I can probably repair.

I wonder if I can fabricate a heater control door. Found a pic. Looks pretty simple. Is the rod and door just hanging out in there and held in by the other half of the box?

Maybe someone has an old box with a usable one?

View attachment 1716462367

 

[Stumpy]

@RAT ROD AL may have heater parts. There was a hole in pass side air box too where the hook mounted. I mixed up JB Weld and patched the hole, as well as put a small piece of metal in for reinforcement.
Fyi, relieve some of the tension off the metal "snaps" that hold the 2 bakelite halves together. WAAYYYY too tight and will break brittle bakelite with ease.
Post a want ad. No way I'd pay $300 for the ebay piece.
Oh the heater core, if no good i would have it rebuilt.

Well right now it has no "snaps". A previous owner apparently thought the snaps were inferior so he screwed the halves together.

 

[RedFish]

Does appear that the doors rod is captured between case halves. I have known some that would knock the clips off and swap in a heater core and think, "Kanocking these back on will be a pain. Especially the ones at top. I'll just shoot some screws in it."
Boss man said ship it will a note.

 

[340sFastback]

I would post up a Wanted ad in the wanted section on this site for the heater box. Any '68 A body would work and I think '67 - '72 most likely all the same for non-AC A Bodies. I have posted up wanted ads before and ppl responded parts laying around they sold me. I also sold parts I had laying around because someone posted up a wanted ad.

 

[matthon]

Wildcat Wrecking is nearby in Oregon.

 

[Stumpy]

Scratched THAT itch.

 

[1WildRT]

Scratched THAT itch.

View attachment 1716467704

View attachment 1716467705

Huge improvement...

 

[Stumpy]

Whoever did the burgundy repaint did not prep the upper firewall correctly (no primer and no sanding) and when I removed the tape it removed some of paint with it revealing the original beige so I ended up doing sanding and primer on that and the fender area.

I just figured that was the universe telling me to not take the easy way and I should have done the whole bay to begin with.

I used 2K rattle cans with a single stage paint in factory RR1 Burgundy poly.

The exterior of the car isn't a factory color. It is darker and more blue and more metallic.

The plan is to eventually repaint the whole car RR1 Burgundy.