the stupid kids magnum build idea

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How is the quality of your Chinese air gap
It's nice, to have only cost $124.00 It's well cast and the ports align fine with a Fel Pro intake gasket that I have. It would be a good intake to convert a bone stock Magnum to a carb setup, or a 318 or 360 LA 2 barrel to a 4 barrel. If I was building a motor to get all of the power that I could wring out of it for its intended purpose, I would choose an Edelbrock RPM intake....but only if I ever run out of LD340's, lol.
 
This is a street driven car so please do not overcam your build thinking you are drag racing at wide open throttle rather than driving to the cruise in
Small blocks like split lift and duration cams
the max i would go would be specs like a racer brown SSH 25-44
you need a good converter, stock won't work well at all
resist the think that you need 3.55s
3.23s with a good converter will work wayyyyyy better than 3.55s
ok i will keep this in mind. What would you say a good converter is?
 
why?

i'm genuinely interested in the reason.
I can run a few reasons past you that make the whiplash a good choice.

The 1.92 valve size calls for a LSA that is very close to the listed 109. I’ll have to get to my papers to show what is about the best for a given valve to displacement LSA.

The duration @050 is very good for 3.21’s (I did this before) and better with 3.55’s. To tall of a tire will kill it some.

The lift of the cam is about right in line with Magnum heads. Charlie Servedio’s YouTube channel covers the flow rates of my personal Magnum head.
Me too, because they don't list a Whiplash roller, unless I missed it.
I do think they have a roller version for the Magnum engine in mind.
I don't know where you're getting your information, but a 2200 converter in a Mopar is stock If that's what you go with, you'll be sorely disappointed.
I agree. Though a 2200 wouldn’t be to bad with those cam specs. But I don’t know where his converter is from or year so I can’t look it up though I’m sure he did. For his sake, it would be great if it is such the case.
This is a street driven car so please do not overcam your build thinking you are drag racing at wide open throttle rather than driving to the cruise in
Small blocks like split lift and duration cams
the max i would go would be specs like a racer brown SSH 25-44
you need a good converter, stock won't work well at all
resist the think that you need 3.55s
3.23s with a good converter will work wayyyyyy better than 3.55s

Did you happen to notice the specs of the cam? 218 on the intake. I’ve used an old Crane some time ago (a split duration stick) and used it in a low compression (7.8-1) ’79, 318, 904, 3.21, 1974 Duster rolling on stock tires.

I did manage to find 18 mpgs. Ran high 14’s. This fellas plan is 3.55’s with a bigger tire. If he losses 1 mpg, I’d call it a lot.

But a bonus resides in his favor, the Magnum is a 9.0-1 ratio with a better head. Though the increased cubic inch size may have him in the high 16 mpg range.

The cruddy thing about the Crane I used was the 112LSA. The 109LSA, increased compression, better cylinder head and intake that what I used, being the OEM 318 head with only a valve spring upgrade and a LD4B intake. I used a 500 cfm carb and couldn’t find a difference between the Holley and Edelbrock at this low power level. Typical 1-5/8 headers were used - FWIW

BUT! The 109 LSA will create more torque over the 112 & the higher lifting valve on a better head will add good power. This increase torque below maximum torque found in the mid rpm range will add drivability & mileage.

I also - somewhat disagree on the 3.23 is better than 3.55’s. Having been there and done that twice.
 
I can run a few reasons past you that make the whiplash a good choice.

The 1.92 valve size calls for a LSA that is very close to the listed 109. I’ll have to get to my papers to show what is about the best for a given valve to displacement LSA.

The duration @050 is very good for 3.21’s (I did this before) and better with 3.55’s. To tall of a tire will kill it some.

The lift of the cam is about right in line with Magnum heads. Charlie Servedio’s YouTube channel covers the flow rates of my personal Magnum head.
thank you for the expert analysis, and i don't disagree one bit, but i was asking him why that was his choice.

i find all too often people succumb to herd mentality or the siren song of marketing. i was curious as to how he came to land on that particular cam.
 
Hey, it’s the dumb kid again. After all this time, I finally got the bottom end done on my Magnum and I’m getting ready to do the top end. I got some new used Magnum heads that are not cracked, and I’m going to send them out to get rebuilt. I would just like some clarification on my build.

I am doing a /6 to V8 swap in my Duster, and the goal is to have a fun street car on a budget. Right now, the motor has a stock bottom end with new OE .030-over pistons and ARP rod bolts. Like I said, I have some fresh OEM heads that I will be putting on.

Being the teen I am, I want the best cam that money can buy. I am thinking about getting the Hughes Whiplash cam with their spring kit. I will reuse the roller lifters I have because they are in perfect condition, and I will buy the longer pushrods for the new cam from Hughes Performance.

This motor will also be running an LA front cover setup to use V-belts. It will be a carbureted setup with a China Air Gap intake. Also, correct me if I’m wrong, but I was told I can reuse my factory high-stall torque converter.

Let me know if you think this is all a good idea.
There is no “best” cam. There are only camshafts that do different things. Pick the cam to put the power where you need it. If you need help deciding which cam will do the “things” you want your cam to do, work with a cam company. Oregon, delta, comp, bullet, Schneider, pick one.
 
There is no “best” cam. There are only camshafts that do different things. Pick the cam to put the power where you need it. If you need help deciding which cam will do the “things” you want your cam to do, work with a cam company. Oregon, delta, comp, bullet, Schneider, pick one.
Agreed, It's all just series of compromises and everyone has different levels of compromise.
 
Agreed, It's all just series of compromises and everyone has different levels of compromise.
Yea and lots of people pick camshafts for sound, and that’s fine. I’m definitely not the guy that picks a cam for sound and gives up a bunch of power.
 
Yea and lots of people pick camshafts for sound, and that’s fine. I’m definitely not the guy that picks a cam for sound and gives up a bunch of power.
True even though I think most like the sound of a little chop but to me a Whiplash type cam is more for a low cr band-aid (work around/compromise). Even though I think some people over state cr's effect on low rpm power like our little cr novel writer :)
 
I can run a few reasons past you that make the whiplash a good choice.

The 1.92 valve size calls for a LSA that is very close to the listed 109. I’ll have to get to my papers to show what is about the best for a given valve to displacement LSA.

The duration @050 is very good for 3.21’s (I did this before) and better with 3.55’s. To tall of a tire will kill it some.

The lift of the cam is about right in line with Magnum heads. Charlie Servedio’s YouTube channel covers the flow rates of my personal Magnum head.

I do think they have a roller version for the Magnum engine in mind.

I agree. Though a 2200 wouldn’t be to bad with those cam specs. But I don’t know where his converter is from or year so I can’t look it up though I’m sure he did. For his sake, it would be great if it is such the case.


Did you happen to notice the specs of the cam? 218 on the intake. I’ve used an old Crane some time ago (a split duration stick) and used it in a low compression (7.8-1) ’79, 318, 904, 3.21, 1974 Duster rolling on stock tires.

I did manage to find 18 mpgs. Ran high 14’s. This fellas plan is 3.55’s with a bigger tire. If he losses 1 mpg, I’d call it a lot.

But a bonus resides in his favor, the Magnum is a 9.0-1 ratio with a better head. Though the increased cubic inch size may have him in the high 16 mpg range.

The cruddy thing about the Crane I used was the 112LSA. The 109LSA, increased compression, better cylinder head and intake that what I used, being the OEM 318 head with only a valve spring upgrade and a LD4B intake. I used a 500 cfm carb and couldn’t find a difference between the Holley and Edelbrock at this low power level. Typical 1-5/8 headers were used - FWIW

BUT! The 109 LSA will create more torque over the 112 & the higher lifting valve on a better head will add good power. This increase torque below maximum torque found in the mid rpm range will add drivability & mileage.

I also - somewhat disagree on the 3.23 is better than 3.55’s. Having been there and done that twice.
This is very crucial information and I will definitely keep this in mind. Thank you so much.
 
Yea and lots of people pick camshafts for sound, and that’s fine. I’m definitely not the guy that picks a cam for sound and gives up a bunch of power.
What people don't grasp is this. I can take an engine with a STONE STOCK cam. I can build it with more compression, a better induction and exhaust, a hot ignition curve and it WILL SOUND like a high performance engine, because it will be. It will simply perform in the RPM range the stock cam tells it to, but it will perform a LOT better. More compression added with "all that other stuff" I mentioned will have a huge influence on how the engine sounds. But getting people to understand that is an entirely different proposition.
 
thank you for the expert analysis, and i don't disagree one bit, but i was asking him why that was his choice.

i find all too often people succumb to herd mentality or the siren song of marketing. i was curious as to how he came to land on that particular cam.
Thanks and apologies on overstepping.
This is very crucial information and I will definitely keep this in mind. Thank you so much.
Your welcome. I’m only trying to be of some help. I really want to see you triumph in this endeavor.
 
This is very crucial information and I will definitely keep this in mind. Thank you so much.
An LSA of 106.67 on a 10-1 ratio on an 5.9 Magnum headed engine would be the technical math on one equation. But don’t do this. I would be inclined to move it down a degree or two on a low compression engine to help generate air movement.

The Hughes cam is designed with timing events to help increase the cylinder pressure. It’s all in how the cam is ground and Hughes went out of their way to do this.

I also went looking for my flow sheets of the OEM Magnum head. I couldn’t find them. But I can tell you what I remember from them and that is the heads flow peaks at .500 and the air flow doesn’t really increase much.

It actually dips and makes a come back the higher you lift the valve. We went to extremes on valve lift. .600+. A lift you’ll never use and probably can’t use with the stock pistons.

Lifting the valve higher past what the grind is already cut for isn’t much help at all. While I’m sure there would be a lower increase, it wouldn’t be a big thing.
 
I have a 5.9 with the Speedmaster intake, stock new heads, Hughes valve springs and the Whiplash cam. 2.94 gears 2200 stall in an 84 d150 short bed. It hauls from idle to 5k, very happy with it.
 
I have a 5.9 with the Speedmaster intake, stock new heads, Hughes valve springs and the Whiplash cam. 2.94 gears 2200 stall in an 84 d150 short bed. It hauls from idle to 5k, very happy with it.
Glad you step in with a testimony.
What size carb and ignition, also, are you running headers?
 
Running Jegs headers. Edelbrock 600, mopar standard electronic ignition

20250323_132820.jpg
 
The Whiplash cams right along with the Comp Thumpr cams can make good power like any other cam as long as all the parts match up. I don't know why they get so much hate. They're a good combination of power and sound. I guess some folks caint stand pickin out a cam based on how it sounds, but last I checked this is a free country still.
 

The Whiplash cams right along with the Comp Thumpr cams can make good power like any other cam as long as all the parts match up. I don't know why they get so much hate. They're a good combination of power and sound. I guess some folks caint stand pickin out a cam based on how it sounds, but last I checked this is a free country still.
I like the way Hughes advertises it a bit and other companies just say “Radical Idle” like it’s a pretender cam you want to pretend with or something.

I’ve said it before, it’s all gimmick & crap slogans that I don’t like.

I can’t think of his name right now, the fella from California also in the MP rags posted up a dyno sheet with a headline or a shout out to everyone saying these cans can’t make power, he threw those very words back out to the forum with a question mark and a dyno sheet.
 
I like the way Hughes advertises it a bit and other companies just say “Radical Idle” like it’s a pretender cam you want to pretend with or something.

I’ve said it before, it’s all gimmick & crap slogans that I don’t like.

I can’t think of his name right now, the fella from California also in the MP rags posted up a dyno sheet with a headline or a shout out to everyone saying these cans can’t make power, he threw those very words back out to the forum with a question mark and a dyno sheet.
Yeah, they figure everything's gotta have a snappy name to sell. They've been doing it a long time, but people fall for it hook line and sinker.
 
Yeah, they figure everything's gotta have a snappy name to sell. They've been doing it a long time, but people fall for it hook line and sinker.
An honest description would be nice.
Also, you would think and/or figure they would actually dyno and track test the camshaft, record results and share with the people what they are getting to with some grind characteristics.

Not a hundred percent sure but didn’t crane give fairly good descriptions on there older catalogs?

I just remember reading some old stuff when I was young and noticed one company would suggest different grinds for different size engines. As well as include a good descriptions on what to expect from the cam in specific combos.

Catchy names are cool and the what nots but…. Sometimes I wonder if it’s just a “Buy Me” hook line.
 
An honest description would be nice.
Also, you would think and/or figure they would actually dyno and track test the camshaft, record results and share with the people what they are getting to with some grind characteristics.

Not a hundred percent sure but didn’t crane give fairly good descriptions on there older catalogs?

I just remember reading some old stuff when I was young and noticed one company would suggest different grinds for different size engines. As well as include a good descriptions on what to expect from the cam in specific combos.

Catchy names are cool and the what nots but…. Sometimes I wonder if it’s just a “Buy Me” hook line.
I always thought Crane did a good job of descriptions. It's a real shame what happened to that company.
 
I can’t think of his name right now, the fella from California also in the MP rags posted up a dyno sheet with a headline or a shout out to everyone saying these cans can’t make power, he threw those very words back out to the forum with a question mark and a dyno sheet.
you might be thinking of Steve Dulcich. it was on an episode of engine masters with a big block mopar (440, i think) and he was musing about it and mentioned the comp "thumpr" line and cams of that nature.

anyway, can confirm that those types of cams can make power. my "low compression" 400 will attest to that. however, all the parts need to work together to get it there. otherwise, they function much like a band aid and sound cool. which is fine if that's what you want and just want to melt a credit card and grab something off the shelf.
 
you might be thinking of Steve Dulcich. it was on an episode of engine masters with a big block mopar (440, i think) and he was musing about it and mentioned the comp "thumpr" line and cams of that nature.

anyway, can confirm that those types of cams can make power. my "low compression" 400 will attest to that. however, all the parts need to work together to get it there. otherwise, they function much like a band aid and sound cool. which is fine if that's what you want and just want to melt a credit card and grab something off the shelf.
Brian something who is here on this forum….
 
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