Thermoquad ?s

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DartGTDan

'71 Dart GT Fan
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I have an acquaintance who is going to sell me a cast-iron intake with a TQ for $75.
This is going to go on my '71 Dart GT with a 318, auto., 3.23:1 SG, elec. ign., and 2 1/4" duals with FlowMaster 40s.
I know nothing a TQs. Will this actually work with my internally stock 318? What cfm rating are TQs? Is it a Spread-Bore or Square-Bore? It's been in a box for a couple of years, will it need a rebuild? Is a TQ easy to rebuild (I've never rebuilt any carburetor successfully)?
Please enlighten me with any TQ info.

Thanks,

(DartGT)Dan
 
It is a spreadbore and 800cfm if it is a stock one. If it is a performance model Thermoquad it could be a 1000cfm but they are rare. The biggest problem with the Thermoquad is finding tuning parts. Finding an overhaul kit shouldn't be a problem at all.


Chuck
 
The T-Q is an easy rebuild. Have no fear. Just becareful of the middle plastic (Phenolic resin) part. I can not find a maker of them now. TomCo. was the last one making them and there mold broke. No fututre plans to re-do the mold.

Grab the "Carter" book. It's everything you wanted to know and more on Carter carbs. It's titled;
"Super tuning and Modifying Carter Carburators" By Dave Emanuel

Inside is a step by step on how to do all Carter 4bbl. carbs. The T-Q is the first one to be shown on how to rebuild it.

The T-Q came in 2 sizes. Widely excepted as 800 & 850 cfm's.
There are varyious models from the early pre-production race units, the first factory used units and later carbs that are modified for emissions useage.
There is also an electric choke version. These are the Carter companys aftermarket versions that also come with GM (Chevy) arms for throttle cable hook up. They are the small version @ 800 cfm. Hard to find, but not impossible.

OH, the small size carb is noted by the primarys being 1.38 in size while the larger carbs primarys are 1.5 in size.
Secondarys are a constant @ 2-1/4

The earlier, the better. The small primary unit would be best for a 318. It'll work like a charm once you set it up correctly.
This spreadbore carb will work best with the correct spreadbore intake. Use of an adapter is possible. But the choke used by the factory sits in the well on the intake. Use of an adapter requires somethinking to make the choke work. You can get creative ro unhook it.

I'd bolt it on and try it out first.
Remember, when you take it aprt, there 2 screws under the choke plate in the primary side. Right next to the dividing wall.

For rods, you can bend edel. afb rods to fit. The T-Q rods are approx 3/4 inch shorter.

MoPar also has some general hot rod info on this carb.
There is a nice guide on line around here someplace.

Give us the carbs model number located on the mounting pad at the rear of the carb.
 
Holy Cow!! 800 cfm! That seems rather HUGE! I was thinking around 500-600 cfm would be way more than needed for my motor.
 
Thermoquads have a secondary air door so it only opens as much as the motor needs so don't worry to much about the cfm rating. A Thermoquad can work quite well on a 318.


Chuck
 
No, not at all. It's he magic of a spreadbore carb. Rochesters aer very similar in this manor and also perform well.

The primarys flow around 200 cfm. When you hit the hammer on the t-Q, the secondary door slowly opens as much as needed. An 800 T-Q can be found on stock 4bbl 318's. 252 duration cam and exhuast manifolds with a 360 intake and head. It works and well.

Do not think the secondarys are to large. The amount of gas that flows into it must be balanced just like the primarys. If it is so, then you'll not drown the engine with to much, not starve it with not enuff.
Better to drown it at first. You can work on it from there. Easy stuff.
 
Don't confuse AFB'S, AVS'S and Holley carbs VS the ThermoQuad in cfm rating. This is like comparing Mopar muscle to an MG Midget!

800 cfm T.Q.'s were used on smogger late 70's-'84 318 engines with single exhaust. You can even bolt onto a bone stock 318, an 800 cfm 340 carb and with no mods/re-jetting, outperform the origional 2bbl.

All '71(one year only design based on the origional non oem Competirion Series 850 and 1,000 cfm T.Q.)and '72-'73 340, the '74 360 carbs and '73-'74 big block carbs{'74-'77 440 truck carbs}are the best models since these are not emissions-calibrated lean.

'75-'84 800 and 850 cfm T.Q.'s have 'lean' circuits that in many cases, cannot be re-calibrated even with re-jetting. These require re-worked circuitry on non-smogger applications but will perform as well as the early models.

The pic is a really mild 225 slant six with an 800 cfm T.Q. I built for the Durta Hyper Pac intake; it really does run!
I would give the T.Q. and intake a try as these carbs will deliver on performance and better gas mileage than most other 4bbl carbs.

hyperpac225 004.jpg
 
Before you try to modify a 1971 T-Quad, you'd better ask someone who knows a lot about these carburetors about the advisability of doing that, because I have always read that the main metering circuit on the '71 models was totally different from the later models; something about being a "solid-fuel design," whatever that means.
I probably shouldn't even be posting this, since I am not familiar with Carter carburetors, but I had a '71 340 with one of these on it, and while I never did get around to making any changes to it, I do remember reading that admonition, several places.

Somebody on this BB undoubtedly knows what I am referring to; I only wish ~I~ did..

Sorry I can't be more helpful. BTW, my '71 340 ran flawlessly, so I never had to mess with it.

Bil, in Conway, Arkansas
 
Bill, click the link at the bottom of Demon sillers post were it sez thermoquads.com. There you'll get up to speed on the carb.

By the way, have you come up with something on T-Q's on Oldsmobiles W series cars for me to read up on?
 
There is an air valve spring on the secondaries that adjusts the opening time of the secondaries based on air flow. This is key to fine tuning the carb and requires the right combo of a screwdriver and a spanner tool to get it loosened/set...there is an actual tool for this. Get this right and the carb "sees" the needs of the engine at the right time, otherwise it will stumble or cough.

I really love the sound of one opening up.. baaaawwoooohhhh!

I also got 22 MPG with a 72 Cuda 340 4 speed on a trip...not using the secondaries.
Usually got 13-18 Mpg combined. (nearly pure stock)
 
What was the rears ratio and tire size?

Your right about that W.O.T. Sound. A real roar!
 
Rumblefish 360.

I went to that Demon Sizzler website you recommended in order to "get up to speed" on Thermoquads, but didn't learn much except that he has a lot of neat carburetors for sale.

I did, however, find a reference to the differences in the '71 and '72 year model T-Quads in a 'Mopar Book of Engines,' under "Adjusting the Carter Themoquad." It says, and I quote, "The T-Q design was changed for 1972 from an "air-bleed" carb to a "solid fuel" carburetor. This changed the basic adjustment techniques... If you have a '71 carburetor and are having trouble with it, we suggest replacing it with a '72 340 carb...."

That is what I remembered, but I had stated it BACKWARD from the way it actually is. :banghead:

Gary Lewallen's T-Quad website also adds, "Chrysler
introduced the TQ on the 1971 340. The first series of TQs including the
71 340 version and the Competition Series TQs were air metered units
unlike like the 72 and later TQs which were solid (liquid) fuel metered."

I just need to remember which was which...

Can't seem to find anything about T-Quads on Oldsmobiles...

Bill, in Conway, AR
 
I've played around with tq's quite a bit.Still have 5 or 6 kicking around the shop.Good carb.Biggest prob is no parts other than rebuild kits.

The tool described to adjust the air door looks like this.I actually made one from a small brass plumbing tee.The air door spring needs to be snugged down until the door just closes.Then take it for a drive and let it warm up.Once it's warm floor it.If it bogs, tighten the door some more.Keep doing this until the bog goes away.

Jets you will have to redrill if you need bigger ones.

Demonsizzler will help you out with parts or just advise.Theres an email link on his websight.May take him a bit to get back to you though so be patient.

Heres some reading if you want too.

http://anusf.anu.edu.au/~jgs900/thermoquad.html
 
Rumblefish 360.

I went to that Demon Sizzler website you recommended in order to "get up to speed" on Thermoquads, but didn't learn much except that he has a lot of neat carburetors for sale.


You did not read this from the site? There is more specific tuning info on my site than any other in print or on the net; much of it is not avail at all any where else!

General ThermoQuad info

The Competition Series circa 1969-1972
The ThermoQuad started life in 1969 as a race or competition carb, best know as the Competition Series. Two cfm ratings were available, 850 and 1,000 and an early and later model. The early model circa 1969-1970 had press-in jets that were held in place with an o-ring in a grove in the top end of the jet. The later model circa 1971-1972 used screw-in jets. The early models were # 4846S for the 850 cfm and # 4847S for the 1,000 cfm while the later models were # 4846SA for the 850 cfm and # 4847SA. These four digit #'s can be found on the corner of the base plate. All C.S. carbs used metering rods and an adjustable 2ndary air door much like the oem Mopar, Ford and International Harvestor carbs. These carbs were all air metered carbs and can quickly be identified by the rectangular boss cast into the outside of the top plate over each float and included a foil decal with the Carter T.Q. logo and checkered flag. The main difference between the 850 and 1,000 is the 850 had double boosters and an air ring or wedge in the primary bores while the 1,000 had only one small booster and no wedge in the primary bores for max air flow/less restriction. These carbs are scarce these days as are new jets/metering rods. The good news is that I sell new rebuild kits, brass floats and choke pull-offs. All C.S. carbs have idle mix screws that angle out away from the centerline of the carb base plate.

The 1971 340 model, 1st oem model
The next generation of T.Q.'s was the one year only oem 1971 Mopar 340 carb. It shared features with the C.S. series carbs in the metering rods and piston, floats, choke pull-off, the top bowl gasket and the screw-in jets. This carb is # 4972 for the 4 speed and # 4973 for the automatic cars. These carbs had the idle mix screws similar to the C.S. carbs. It was often replaced by 1972 carbs by Mopar dealerships since the 72' up carbs were improved over the 71' carbs and are relatively scarce carbs today. These are also air metered carbs.

The 72'-74' oem models
The carb was reengineered for 1972 and became a solid metered carb and thus was a much improved carb in both performance and tuneability. This was the first year the carb was used on a big block as an oem unit, a Mopar 400 cu in hp engine. Two different but similar top plates were used on the 72' 340 engines and can be id'd by the # 2007 and 2083 cast into the top plate. All big block carbs were the same casting but were slightly different from the 340 carb and were 850 cfm's while all 340 carbs were 800 cfm's. In 1973, only one carb top was used for for small and big blocks while the mid section and base plates were again 800 and 850 cfm specific parts.This was the first year used on a Mopar 440 engine and the first and only year used on a US manufactured Ford, the 460 cu in engine. It was also the first year used on an International Harvestor engine, the 345 and 392 cu in. In 1974, the top was again slightly revised having an extended accelerator pump arm boss and different pump arm linkage that both remained through 1984. All 1972-1974 carbs were known as the 6000 series carbs. The 74' Ford carb was an 800 cfm with an integral 12 volt choke and special accomodating base plate for the choke. The I.H. carb was an 850 cfm.

The 75'-84' smoger models
In 1975, the carbs tops/bowls were changed. This was the end of the non smoger carbs and the begining of the smoger carbs, the first of the 9000 series. *The acception is the 1974-1977 Mopar Truck 440 cu in carbs which were based on the 1974 carbs. For the first time, very lean circuitry was used for less exhaust emissions, rendering these carbs poor performers on non smoger engines. These carbs have a distinctive vertical flat boss on the front center of the top plate which remained through 1984 and were again available in 800 and 850 cfm's. The 1976 carbs were the same as the 75's but for the first time, used a vacuum solenoid attached to the vertical boss on the front of the top plate. Some of these carbs did not have an idle speed screw or a vacuum port for the distributor vacuum advance on the Mopar lean burn ignition. I.H. used the carbs through 1979. This same design was used through early 1978 and again changed in late 78' through the final run in 84'. Many changes took place on the late 78' to 84' carbs due to smog regulations including electric idle enrichment solenoids added to the vertical flat boss on the front of the top plate and extra ports added to the base plate and even leaner circuitry. In 1979, a final aftermarket T.Q. was available and is known as the SuperQuad, only available as an 800 cfm with the integral 12 volt choke like the 74' Ford carb had. This S.Q. carb was a direct replacement for all oem carbs and was part # 9800/9810, non egr/egr for Ford, GM and I.H. engines and 9801/9811 for Chrysler non egr/egr engines.

Additional info:
The 1975-1984 carbs are decent carbs on the origional respective engines but perform poorly on non origional/emissions engines but the good news is that I convert/modify these carbs for non emission use with excellent results, so don't throw away the smoger carbs; keep them as the jets/metering rods can be used on all 1972-1984 carbs, DAVID.


General ThermoQuad info

The Competition Series circa 1969-1972
The ThermoQuad started life in 1969 as a race or competition carb, best know as the Competition Series. Two cfm ratings were available, 850 and 1,000 and an early and later model. The early model circa 1969-1970 had press-in jets that were held in place with an o-ring in a grove in the top end of the jet. The later model circa 1971-1972 used screw-in jets. The early models were # 4846S for the 850 cfm and # 4847S for the 1,000 cfm while the later models were # 4846SA for the 850 cfm and # 4847SA. These four digit #'s can be found on the corner of the base plate. All C.S. carbs used metering rods and an adjustable 2ndary air door much like the oem Mopar, Ford and International Harvester carbs. These carbs were all air metered carbs and can quickly be identified by the rectangular boss cast into the outside of the top plate over each float and included a foil decal with the Carter T.Q. logo and checkered flag. The main difference between the 850 and 1,000 is the 850 had double boosters and an air ring or wedge in the primary bores while the 1,000 had only one small booster and no wedge in the primary bores for max air flow/less restriction. These carbs are scarce these days as are new jets/metering rods. The good news is that I sell new rebuild kits, brass floats and choke pull-offs. All C.S. carbs have idle mix screws that angle out away from the centerline of the carb base plate.

The 1971 340 model, 1st oem model
The next generation of T.Q.'s was the one year only oem 1971 Mopar 340 carb. It shared features with the C.S. series carbs in the metering rods and piston, floats, choke pull-off, the top bowl gasket and the screw-in jets. This carb is # 4972 for the 4 speed and # 4973 for the automatic cars. These carbs had the idle mix screws similar to the C.S. carbs. It was often replaced by 1972 carbs by Mopar dealerships since the 72' up carbs were improved over the 71' carbs and are relatively scarce carbs today. These are also air metered carbs.

The 72'-74' oem models
The carb was re-engineered for 1972 and became a solid metered carb and thus was a much improved carb in both performance and tune-ability. This was the first year the carb was used on a big block as an oem unit, a Mopar 400 cu in hp engine. Two different but similar top plates were used on the 72' 340 engines and can be id'd by the # 2007 and 2083 cast into the top plate. All big block carbs were the same casting but were slightly different from the 340 carb and were 850 cfm's while all 340 carbs were 800 cfm's. In 1973, only one carb top was used for for small and big blocks while the mid section and base plates were again 800 and 850 cfm specific parts.This was the first year used on a Mopar 440 engine and the first and only year used on a US manufactured Ford, the 460 cu in engine. It was also the first year used on an International Harvester engine, the 345 and 392 cu in. In 1974, the top was again slightly revised having an extended accelerator pump arm boss and different pump arm linkage that both remained through 1984. All 1972-1974 carbs were known as the 6000 series carbs. The 74' Ford carb was an 800 cfm with an integral 12 volt choke and special accommodating base plate for the choke. The I.H. carb was an 850 cfm.

The 75'-84' smogger models
In 1975, the carbs tops/bowls were changed. This was the end of the non smogger carbs and the beginning of the smoger carbs, the first of the 9000 series. *The acception is the 1974-1977 Mopar Truck 440 cu in carbs which were based on the 1974 carbs. For the first time, very lean circuitry was used for less exhaust emissions, rendering these carbs poor performers on non smogger engines. These carbs have a distinctive vertical flat boss on the front center of the top plate which remained through 1984 and were again available in 800 and 850 cfm's. The 1976 carbs were the same as the 75's but for the first time, used a vacuum solenoid attached to the vertical boss on the front of the top plate. Some of these carbs did not have an idle speed screw or a vacuum port for the distributor vacuum advance on the Mopar lean burn ignition. I.H. used the carbs through 1979. This same design was used through early 1978 and again changed in late 78' through the final run in 84'. Many changes took place on the late 78' to 84' carbs due to smog regulations including electric idle enrichment solenoids added to the vertical flat boss on the front of the top plate and extra ports added to the base plate and even leaner circuitry. In 1979, a final after-market T.Q. was available and is known as the SuperQuad, only available as an 800 cfm with the integral 12 volt choke like the 74' Ford carb had. This S.Q. carb was a direct replacement for all oem carbs and was part # 9800/9810, non egr/egr for Ford, GM and I.H. engines and 9801/9811 for Chrysler non egr/egr engines.

Additional info:
The 1975-1984 carbs are decent carbs on the origonal respective engines but perform poorly on non origonal/emissions engines but the good news is that I convert/modify these carbs for non emission use with excellent results, so don't throw away the smogger carbs; keep them as the jets/metering rods can be used on all 1972-1984 carbs, DAVID.


If you take a few min and read this info, you will gain useful knowledge that will help you understand how a T.Q. works and its simplicity, David.
 
Bill Dedman. LOL, I know what you mean. I get things backwards from time to time. Theres really just to much to hold in the head for a hobby. When I was wrenching to make ends meet, it came to the fingers without thought. I just did. Cause you knew what to do almost entirely without thinking about it.

Do yo have a link for this?
Gary Lewallen's T-Quad website
The Demon sizzler sit is preety good. Sorry all you seen was neat carbs for sale. (Chuckling)
David is a good fella. Very helpful.

needsaresto That's the page I was thinking of earlier. That fella put together alot of info on the stock carbs and where they came from. Though it's not fool proof, it does help I.D. and show most stock jettings.


I went to the Tomco site and found out theres more than just a few fuel bowls for these carbs. I thought a mix and matching of parts may be possible on an easier level until I seen just how many bowls are out there.
YIKES!

demon sizzler Speak of the devil....no pun intended...
Hey dude. How are ya. I think you took that one to heart a little bit. But that posting will help many.
Peace to ya.:angel11:
 
Rumblefish 360:

Gary's website's URL is:

http://www.carburetor.ca/Tech/Carter/tqguide-Vaanth.html

Between his website and the Demon Sizzler's, there's not much left to ask about a T-Quad!

Too bad... I run a Holley 750 blow-thru double pumper; all that great information is wasted on me...

BTW, the '71 340 I had with a T-Quad was a tad lean (headers), but otherwise ran flawlessly. Never any tuning problems.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Demon Sizzler, I apologize. The information you posted from your website is near-comprehensive and very valuable. I don't know HOW I managed to miss it... but, then, I do some amazing (stupid) things...

My congratulations on a most impressive assemblage of Thermoquad info!
It's fascinating reading, even though I don't have a T-Quad car right now.
Thanks for making all that available!!!

Bill, in Conway, Arkansas
 
No big deal Bill! I figured you somehow missed the tuning info so I posted it here to make it more visible.

Rumblefish, I 'm doing just fine! I did some testing-n-tuning on my latest large cfm T.Q. model 1.5 months ago at Atlanta Dragway. I did some mods I had never tried and the carb is impressive, especially on low end torque/power. I staged the Demon for the first run, the last green light came on and I launched the car and it was sideways heading for the starting tree! Needless to say I had to let off the gas completely, straighten and get back into the groove and I punched it again and it was still squirrely. So I did not get any good passes that way! I will likely offer this carb build as a separate model next year after more testing/tuning. David.
 
All right Bill! Thanks for the link. I'll check it out later on. ;)

DS, look very foward to this. Your making me wish I took some of my vaction at my buddies house in Atlanta this week. The $3.00 plus a gallon kept me here and it's been a bit cold form me to get on the Harley for any length of time. I'm not preped for sub 50* rideing for any length of time.:angry2:

Check out what a freind scored for me at a swap meet.

The 2 shoots of the E-choke are gonna do nicely on my LD-340 street/strip engine.

100_1361.JPG


100_1367.JPG


100_1371.JPG
 
Holy Cow!! 800 cfm! That seems rather HUGE! I was thinking around 500-600 cfm would be way more than needed for my motor.

NO problemO with the TQ .... just close the air-door down. Depending on what your total application is .. you might want to find some SMALL jetting for the secondaires.

Now as far as the best general-info .... get a Chrysler service manual. NO real trix needed with the Plastic Fantastic ... just set 'er up with the OEM specs.
 
Hay Rum .... but the spelling is Fibergla$$ ! ... I tried to register the other way .... and it labeled me - Fibergla - or something like that.
 
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