This car is cursed

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midlife89

midlife89

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youngstown,oh
Found out why bypass fitting wouldn't stop leaking.Crack in intake from fitting to thermosat housing.Decided to get new intake,any real advantage between performer rpm to rpm air gap?Figure either will work better with my cam.Is it worth getting my LD 340 welded then sell it,or is it worth anything as is?
 
No difference in shape or size w/ the Air Gap vs std RPM. But it does look cooler and provide the benefit of no oil splash on the plenum/ports.
Someone will always buy and LD340. Won't be me, but someone always will.
 
Performer is more for street use, the air gap is for race use.
 
I have run both the RPM and RPM Air-gap, no difference in performance.
 
Bypass fitting is tapered pipe thread (NPT). Once it seats, (becomes tight) stop twisting on it.
 
You all ready have the LD340 on the car? I'd fix it because it would be cheaper, IMO, or at least should be. A simple welding and grinding flat the surfaces, re tap a hole? IDK what exactly is involded with your intake, but, ask about the cost at a shop. It's worth the trip.

The difference between the RPM and the AG-RPM is simple stated like;

Drive it every day? Winter time too? RPM

Do not drive it in the winter/cold, on a hotter than normal street ride?
AG-RPM

Well, you know the cost of the intakes via the speed shops, find out the repair cost to the LD-340.
 
weld it up and see how that works and if not go with something new ^ agreed.
And you think your car is cursed, you should work with mine haha I hear you dude it's all in the name of the game of restoring old cars
 
Got a price of 120.00 to fix it,so I figured I'd just up grade it.Think the AG RPM a better match for my cam.Now what to do with the old intake,hate to scrap it,but prob not worth what it would cost to fix it.It will end up on shelf,with all my other over sized paper weights.It has leaked since I got the car.Just wish the bleeding would end.
 
If you have an old car it always is a bleed as they are always in need of something. The only way to arrive is to park them in the garage and let them sit and what fun would that be. IMO I would fix the LD as it is more correct for the year of the car but if you don't care about that buy new and someone will buy the LD and fix it.
 
midlife89 said:
Got a price of 120.00 to fix it,so I figured I'd just up grade it.Think the AG RPM a better match for my cam.Now what to do with the old intake,hate to scrap it,but prob not worth what it would cost to fix it.It will end up on shelf,with all my other over sized paper weights.It has leaked since I got the car.Just wish the bleeding would end.
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someone with a tig welder in their garage might buy it and repair it themselves, :D gotta stay positive lol
 
midlife89 said:
Now what to do with the old intake,hate to scrap it,but prob not worth what it would cost to fix it.It will end up on shelf,with all my other over sized paper weights.
Click to expand...

I have a M1 intake that rotted out from the inside but was hidden by an epoxy repair. It now hangs on the wall of my garage with an old Holley carb and Moroso air cleaner as wall art.

I know what you mean by cursed. Every time I work on my car, I ask my self why I do this?!?
 
Another problem I have found is the the bottom face of the thermostat housing is not flat. I checked this with the edge of a combination square. Licked up the face in a metal lathe or mill , and no more leaks
 
I would look on ebay or here for a used intake

I'm sure it sell for $40 - $50 the crack intake if its repairable

Careful using the air gap on a street car, it cold temps the plugs can foul out before the engine warms up. Down south its no problem but Ohio can have cold weather in a few weeks. This summer thou an air gap would have been perfect due to so many 90 plus temps
 
i fixed 3 or 4 cracked intakes the welding is the easy part getting it clean enough takes some time i use wire wheel acid and soak it for a short time i charge 25.00 to fix them.
 
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