This is bad.

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SpeedracerX said:
Im thinking its something to do with the green bearings... the OP has said several times now that he can see from one side to the other, so there are no thrust buttons in the center section...
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All I know at this point is that third member turns smoothly until axles are installed. When I slide the second one in and before I even tighten the flange down it is hard to turn.
 
Ya re posted before i could retrack my qustions sorry. Man from the sound of it eather the thrust buttons are still in there (witch you say are not in there now) or somthing is up with the axle bearings or axlesman. far as i know the bearings are pressed down to a sholder on the axle itself & that's it. to confirm that pull em both out & check with a tape to see that both axle bearings are setted the same depth.
 
That is definitely not right! I would not try and drive it until you resolve this issue. The bearings press on and then a lock type collar goes on after. It would be really hard to do it wrong. They do make a Green bearing with a snap ring on the outside of the race but these are used in different aftermarket Disc brake set ups. If your axles are butting you can shorten one or both axles by cutting a small amount off the end.
 
The way you have described it more in depth does sound like the thrust button is still there. There are three pieces to it. The center pin and the two halves of the button. It should just fall out if you remove the third member and turn it so the side gears are vertical.
 
Just for the sake of getting to the bottom of this,take 4 flat washers and put them on the studs before you tighten them down just to see if the axles turn free and easy. Do both sides if need be. If in fact this fixes it you will now know the axles are butting.
 
I am guessing one of two things. #1 one of your new bearings is pressed on cocked or the axle was bent while pressing it on, or #2 the housing is bent or tweaked, but you didn't know it before because the old tapered roller bearings, when the end play is adjusted, have play in them which allowed for the axle to still turn in a bent housing.

Pull the axles one at a time while leaving the opposite one in to see if you can determine that the problem is related to only one side, or only happens with both axles installed.
 
As a side note, a housing can be tweaked and bent by over tightening the u bolts, by welding on it or by hard launches and abuse. They also were not terribly straight from the factory, but as I said the tapered rollers were forgiving of this.
 
Guys, even if the axles were touching, it would still rotate just like a mini-spool install. A buck says its your bearings. They are like big skateboard bearings, they should only be retained, not torqued like Timken loaded thrust bearings? You stated the axle slipped in doesnt rotate or is it when you torque the plate back on? Take a string or stiff wire and put it all the way through and measure the bearing seat distance. Then measure your axles. Should be less than bearing seats so the axles will not touch. Spacer or not. I dont think you even need the thrust block with green bearings as they are the sole retention mechanism for the axles, right? I never used them so i could be way off....but thats what's been said.
 
As you start to disassemble, pull the 1st axle out with the 2nd axle still in and see if it still stiff. The problems started when you put the 2nd axle in; something may be bent on that side only, and doing this will ID the side as bent or not. I am imagining the 2nd axle torquing the side bearings hard in the 3rd member.

Is there any chance that multiple gaskets were installed between the 3rd member and case? I am trying to think of how the gear carrier depth fit into the housing could be wrong.
 
d55dave said:
I am guessing one of two things. #1 one of your new bearings is pressed on cocked or the axle was bent while pressing it on, or #2 the housing is bent or tweaked, but you didn't know it before because the old tapered roller bearings, when the end play is adjusted, have play in them which allowed for the axle to still turn in a bent housing.

Pull the axles one at a time while leaving the opposite one in to see if you can determine that the problem is related to only one side, or only happens with both axles installed.
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I will try what you've suggested. However, if an axle was bent my wheel would wobble and the tire would show wear. Haven't had any tell-tale signs of a bent axle yet though.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
That is definitely not right! I would not try and drive it until you resolve this issue. The bearings press on and then a lock type collar goes on after. It would be really hard to do it wrong. They do make a Green bearing with a snap ring on the outside of the race but these are used in different aftermarket Disc brake set ups. If your axles are butting you can shorten one or both axles by cutting a small amount off the end.
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The green bearings I bought do have a snap ring on the outside of the bearing housing. When I install the axles the snap ring butts up against the flange that was included with the bearings. I will try to get some pics taken tonight.
 
nm9stheham said:
As you start to disassemble, pull the 1st axle out with the 2nd axle still in and see if it still stiff. The problems started when you put the 2nd axle in; something may be bent on that side only, and doing this will ID the side as bent or not. I am imagining the 2nd axle torquing the side bearings hard in the 3rd member.

Is there any chance that multiple gaskets were installed between the 3rd member and case? I am trying to think of how the gear carrier depth fit into the housing could be wrong.
Click to expand...
I used one gasket with silicone on both sides. I noticed there was a whirring noise as I give the car gas to make it move.
 
No, 3rd member depth cant be that far off. Usually gaskets are installed dry, but still, not enough to tweak anything. Silicone will just squeeze out, how about just installing the axle, no carrier? If you need a little support, just stuff a wrag in the open diff to center the axle. Could you be dragging on an internal bearong seal that you dont need?
 
Pull out both axles and check the bearing for damage. Check the housing bearing sockets for damage also
Get some plastigauge and center a small piece of it on one of the axle ends and install. Install the second axle. Be sure to not rotate the axles. Torque the bearing retainers to spec. Do not rotate, just unbolt and remove the first axle. See if the plastigauge is compressed and if so, measure how much. If it is compressed fully, you have imterference on the axle length. If plastigauge is not disturbed, your problem is not the axle length. I hope this helps. I recently did this on my 8.75 and discovered my old thrust bearings were not the issue. It was with my new disc brake setup.
 
Im thinking; posts 25,30 and 36.I leave the seals in too after verifying clearance. That reverse/ok to forward not ok, though has me head-scratching.Wait this is a clutch type posi. Then maybe the last clutch is misaligned preventing spline engagement.Oh yeah,that could do it.The end of the axle would press on that errant plate and jam it up.
 
1. do the axles slide in completely to the housing flange ? and easily ?

2. is there a lock ring on the inside section of the axle, using the bearing as dividing point to inside side and outside side ?

If you can answer yes and yes to 1. and then yes to 2. then move along.
If you answer no to them, then we can see a problem and a fix for it
.
 
If you look through the tube with the axles pulled out and see clear through with no abstructions whatsoever, doesnt that mean the cross pin isnt installed?
 
Yes and no; Yes on the cone type SG with its 2 spider pin and straddling thrust block. No on the 4-spider trac-loc, as it has a small center hole for the thrust buttons to pass through.
 
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