This might be a problem. Oh well, keep grinding!
- Thread starter DodgeCUZ
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mygasser
Well-Known Member
ooh! that's had some bodgery in the past. still it's only metal, lol. you'll get there.
Maybe time for the sawzall??
I don't know why you all grind these cars down like that. Use paint stripper for paint and bondo removal. You will see all repairs and grinder marks. . Stripper, Razor scraper, with a box of new blades and steel wool. DA the car with 80 when done to locate dents. You can see the dark crease in the one quarter that showed up with the DA. You get a much better platform to start with. Lines stay crisp.
JDMopar
Well-Known Member
I use a razor blade also to remove old paint. If a car has been painted a half a dozen times, the razor blade will get it down to original primer pretty easily. If I find a wad of filler, I hit it with a propane torch or heat gun and get a gasket scraper up under it and it pops right off without enough heat to warp a panel. It doesn't take long to find out if a car was fixed back in the day by a skilled body man or a sculpture.....lol.
DodgeCUZ
Member
For this cycle I’m concentrating on getting it running. I’m gonna have to do the body right on the next cycle.
DodgeCUZ
Member
Nice work!
I use the razor blades after coating with paint stripper to remove the new paint and the original paint, When down to the primer I put a last coat of paint stripper on and steel wool the rest off. surface rust on the rockers and lower quarters get blasted after covering the car with plastic
Makes the job much easier and much less cost on material .
Steve, what's your recommendation for a GOOD quality paint stripper that actually still WORKS?
They are all junk. What I do is go to Lowes and buy the mid grade and brush it in one direction. Let it sit and then scrape it off. Then re- apply and scrape again Keep it wet and only brush in one direction.
I can remember the Air craft stripper. Brush it on and the paint would bubble instantly. Those days are gone. I should have bought quantity and put it in plastic drums. I tried different brands and spent for the expensive and the cheapest . The cheap stuff won't take off house paint. The middle cost and high cost are virtually identical. Looks, consistency, smell, and the way the burn your skin, . You really know its no good when you walk away and come back and bee's landed in it. and they are still moving. But I would rather remove the paint this way so not to remove metal from the car with a grinder and cause heat which warps and soda cans panels.
Media blasting should only be used on inner structures of the car never hit the inside or the outside of the , Quarters , Roof, trunk,hood, or door skins you will see warpage. I also only use crushed glass on the cars never use sand to media blast. And I always paint strip all outer panels to be painted. If the hood Doors or trunk show rust on the inside I remove the inner structure and reattach after cleaning and applying epoxy primer.
There is one thing I would like to mention. After paint stripping a car with stripper. the car can sit an will not rust unless you touch it with your hands. If you DA the car with sand paper and let it sit it will start rusting in a couple days. This Demon sat for 15 years after being stripped and the only rust was where it was touched
I can remember the Air craft stripper. Brush it on and the paint would bubble instantly. Those days are gone. I should have bought quantity and put it in plastic drums. I tried different brands and spent for the expensive and the cheapest . The cheap stuff won't take off house paint. The middle cost and high cost are virtually identical. Looks, consistency, smell, and the way the burn your skin, . You really know its no good when you walk away and come back and bee's landed in it. and they are still moving. But I would rather remove the paint this way so not to remove metal from the car with a grinder and cause heat which warps and soda cans panels.
Media blasting should only be used on inner structures of the car never hit the inside or the outside of the , Quarters , Roof, trunk,hood, or door skins you will see warpage. I also only use crushed glass on the cars never use sand to media blast. And I always paint strip all outer panels to be painted. If the hood Doors or trunk show rust on the inside I remove the inner structure and reattach after cleaning and applying epoxy primer.
There is one thing I would like to mention. After paint stripping a car with stripper. the car can sit an will not rust unless you touch it with your hands. If you DA the car with sand paper and let it sit it will start rusting in a couple days. This Demon sat for 15 years after being stripped and the only rust was where it was touched
This may be a stupid question, but why brush in one direction? I've heard it before and I believe it's in the directions, but I've never understood why.
That's not a problem it's a opportunity.... i believe you can actually get patch panels for that car.. and when you cut out the old crap you can actually stop the rust behind it 
Then be 100% sure you are not going to have a problem in the future.. Good luck!
Then be 100% sure you are not going to have a problem in the future.. Good luck!
JDMopar
Well-Known Member
@Righty Tighty If you brush back over the stripper in the opposite direction that you just brushed, it kills the stripper. At least that's what the instructions on the old style "Aircraft Stripper" brand said. First time I used it many years ago, I tested it to see if they were full of BS. Nope....didn't work at all if you back stroked it! I have not tried the stuff from Lowes or Home Depot yet, but if Steve says it works the same way, that's good enough for me. My Barracuda gonna F around and find out!! LOL
damn.. that might explain why i never had the stuff work well for me.. we used to use ZipStrip and sometimes it was amazing other times it didn't do much... Who knew they had directions with em
JDMopar
Well-Known Member
LOL.....I reread the instructions after I disregarded the DO NOT GET ON SKIN part!
But that's the only way my skin learns to get tougher...LOL.....I reread the instructions after I disregarded the DO NOT GET ON SKIN part!
I don't know but I tried it and where ever I went the opposite way it didn't work as well. I think it has to do with a chemical reaction. That would be a question for a chemical science engineer major like Hunter Biden
Where is your actual before pictures?
Hidden Away. Was some nice craftsmanship underneath there.
Inside 1/4 was reworked to Mint and factory texture then factory color on top of all that inside the trunk.
Yeah, this is what we do this for.
☆☆☆☆☆
Dale Davies
Well-Known Member
If you need to replace rusty wheel openings, watch fitzeesfabrications videos. He shows how to form the conplex shapes simply with basic tools. He leaves the rusty parts in place as a guide and once he is happy with the fit he cuts one end to push it back out of the way and tacs a bit. Then cuts some more with the disc at an angle so the cut supports the new metal. Cut and butt he calls it.
DodgeCUZ
Member
DodgeCUZ
Member
Anyone if this hump is factory? On top of the quarter between the deck lid and rear window.
340six
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Same here. Paint stripper and blades here too. Followed by wipe down blast rusted areas to get white metal on light pitted and cut out bad cancer. All gone good metal before anything done to repair.
I used to work next street over from Redi-Strip.
They had 2 guys work together One with magnet and scraper. One with torch.
Magnet man found filler and pointed. Torch Fire bubbled filler, magnet - scraper guy did his job scrapes off Repeat
Then scrape loose paint, seam sealer, before strip dip tank.
Pull car look see till all clean. Pressure wash.
Then de- rust tank positive ions, reverse polarity neg ions pull rust. Repeat.
Power Wash heated washer. Clean with degreaser, wash again.
Wipe down, wax grease remover, then sprayed with good epoxy primer. And light coat of poly based 2k if requested while epoxy was still open for chemical bond. As later it would need scuffed for mechanical bond.
You can basicly do this at home shop. Magnet scrape filler, scrape the loose easy paint, then strip with brush and gallons of stripper. Wash, DA 80 sand. Blast fine area lighty pitted but good, cut out bad.
I treat pitted with PPG DX-579 as even light blast only gets most. Even when white metal. Wash with HOT Water so no flash rust. Wipe with laqure thinner or pre-paint Wax grease removed before epoxy. The DX-579 It also puts a phosphate coating.
Start with good clean metal and no surprises later.
Say no to grinder heat and deep scratches
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