Thread sealant

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Dart50

Dart50

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I recently changed my timing chain and now have a leak out of a bolt in the timing chain cover.
Before installing the cover I ran a tap through all the holes in the block.
I used high temperature thread sealant on all bolts.
I did not remember which bolts went into the water jacket so I did them all.

At first I thought that I had brain fade while assembling and forgot to seal the bolt that was leaking. I drained the coolant last night and pulled the bolt. It did have sealant on it?
Attached is a picture of the thread sealer I used.

Did I use the wrong stuff? Maybe a bad tube?
What do you use?

Thanks
 

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that is what I use
many people prefer "the right stuff"
 
That's what I always use, it works splendidly for me. Try using a bit more and see if that helps, I usually put a generous amount on about a third of the way up the threads.
 
Sealing that thread should not be that difficult. I hate to say, but is it possible the gasket / cover is damaged?

On the other hand, how bad is it? I've had the outer header bolts "weep" for a day or two, and then "heal up." If it isn't too bad, you might try monitoring the oil like an eagle, LOL, and just run it a day or two
 
How long do you let it cure before you put your coolant in?
I wonder if I added my coolant to quick.
I know I put the coolant back in within a couple hrs. I basically bolted everything together filled the rad and fired it up.
I re-read the data sheet (a little late I know :eek:ops:)
“For maximum pressure and solvent resistance, allow at least 24 hours for the product to fully cure before filling and pressurizing system”
they are talking 10,000 psi vs 12 though.
So….
How long do you wait.
Oh, and I will put on extra sealant when I reassemble.

Thanks again
 
“Sealing that thread should not be that difficult”
I know….
Either I am getting senile in my old age or just have bad luck with this car.
The silliest little things are causing me problems.
I sure hope you are wrong about the gasket.
The leak is a constant drip when the system is pressurized and only weeps when cold.
I already pulled the bolt so I am going to reseal, using more sealant, and probably let it sit overnight (or more) before I fill the cooling system.
Per my previous post, I hope to hear how long other people wait for the sealant to cure.
 
I think mine sat a day or three, lol, before I filled it.

It doesn't really "cure" so to speak, it just kinda dries a little bit, it doesn't get hardened.
 
Another reason to run a 7psi cap, which is what I have been doing for 30 or 40 years. I know T.O. is a bit further south from Winnipeg, but it's not much hotter down there, and it doesn't stay hot for weeks on end like it does here.
 
Permatex Super 300 has worked for me over the years. Though not specified as a thread sealant it has similar properties and good chemical resistance.
per_80057.jpg
 
I use the silver powdered "stop leak" that you can get at any parts store. Just put a little (maybe about 1/4 of the container) in the radiator and let it run for 30-45 minutes and it will seal up the leaks...
 
I've used the same stuff that you did, and the ARP brand. Both have worked for me, but it doesn't seem to have a very long shelf life, so if it's an older tube, you might want to try a new tube. If is comes out watery and lumpy, it's no good. Should be like tooth paste. I also let it sit for at least 24 hours before adding fluids or pressure.
 
64physhy said:
If is comes out watery and lumpy, it's no good. Should be like tooth paste.
Click to expand...

If it's been sitting, try kneading the tube for a bit to mix it up, I have always been able to mix it back up to the proper consistency.
 
I've tried kneading it, but it doesn't seem to be as good as a fresh tube. When I tried that on my truck's air tank fittings, they still leaked. Tried a new tube, and no more leaks.
 
Bad Sport said:
If it's been sitting, try kneading the tube for a bit to mix it up, I have always been able to mix it back up to the proper consistency.
Click to expand...

I used to work at a bakery. I would have quit earlier, but I kneaded the dough...
 
I don't understand why any of this is necessary. I've put together a few 340s and 318s over the last 40 years and never put any sealer on any threads, except for that liquid teflon on pipe threads. And I've never had a coolant or oil leak coming from a bolt, except for those damn exhaust manifold bolts that they drilled through into the water passages! But even that has been quite rare.
 
There are a lot of great products on the market, but I have always just used a dab of RTV. Never had a problem.
 
69
The bolt in question, I think, is the bolt that is used to set the belt tension on the P/S pump. As such, it passes through a bracket with a slot. The bolt-head cannot make a seal there. The seal has to occur at the block end of the tunnel, where the bolt enters the block's cooling system. Theoretically the bolt torque should seal it.In practice, it doesn't always. If it is allowed to continue seeping, the coolant residue will eventually fill the tunnel and make removal of the bolt nearly impossible.
I'm pretty sure you know all this, so the info is here for others who might benefit from it.
 
GM used that liquid Teflon sealant up through the early 90s. Then, they posted a massive TSB saying not to use it anymore and for all the dealers to discard their remaining supply.

The replacement "stuff" they started sending was GM's version of high temp RTV.

I asked a GM rep about that afterwards and he said that both liquid Teflon and the Teflon tape was more geared for pipe threads and also they were having problems with the liquid Teflon not holding up to the heat.
 
RustyRatRod said:
...both liquid Teflon and the Teflon tape was more geared for pipe threads and also they were having problems with the liquid Teflon not holding up to the heat.
Click to expand...

Correct, that's what I said, on pipe threads only. I can't see where it would do any good on straight threads anyhow.
 
Morning coffee drinking and thinking... for most DIY, shade tree, tool borrowing, fixers of their horseless carriage, a single tube of RTV has been their single, go to, universal application product for a few years. Their only problem was getting enough usable RTV out of the tube. Is this why a high priced special application product has stayed on the part store shelf for a few years ? I don't know about the shelf life of those products. I do consider Advance Auto Parts, Autozone, etc.., similar to grocery stores, even if they don't.
I'll stop there and say, Good luck with it. c\_/
 
Dart50 said:
I recently changed my timing chain and now have a leak out of a bolt in the timing chain cover.
Before installing the cover I ran a tap through all the holes in the block.
I used high temperature thread sealant on all bolts.
I did not remember which bolts went into the water jacket so I did them all.

At first I thought that I had brain fade while assembling and forgot to seal the bolt that was leaking. I drained the coolant last night and pulled the bolt. It did have sealant on it?
Attached is a picture of the thread sealer I used.

Did I use the wrong stuff? Maybe a bad tube?
What do you use?

Thanks
Click to expand...

You used the best sealer for threads. Somewhere in there is operator air. Either, you didnt use enough,
not tight enough, or the threads weren't clean. Take the bolt out, clean it, inspect it, reinstall.
Ater your done, walk away. Let it sit for a day.

The Right Stuff is a great prouct, however it is used for gaskets. Valve covers, oil pan, intake, water pump, ect.
 
Johnny Dart said:
You used the best sealer for threads. Somewhere in there is operator air. Either, you didnt use enough,
not tight enough, or the threads weren't clean. Take the bolt out, clean it, inspect it, reinstall.
Ater your done, walk away. Let it sit for a day.

The Right Stuff is a great prouct, however it is used for gaskets. Valve covers, oil pan, intake, water pump, ect.
Click to expand...

you could always wrap the bolt w/ a few turns of Teflon tape before applying the sealant.
 
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