Throttle Cable

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Detroit Iron

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Yo members. I have a '64 Barracuda.... original 273 car, but now has a 340 with a Carter AVS. I'm still running the stock 2bbl throttle cable and needless to say it's not ideal.

I'm looking for input on what you all are using for your early A 4bbl applications. Thanks!!!
 
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It'll probably depend on where your cable bracket mounts. Most aftermarket intakes have a different location from the stock cast iron intake.
 
I'm running a 340 throttle cable on the 340 in my 65 Barracuda. Have no idea whether it's the same length as a 273 four barrel cable, as my old one has been gone for more years than I remember. 340 cable fits perfectly, using a 340 throttle cable bracket.
 
The later A throttle cable is about 4" longer than the early ones. The later ones are available cheap from Rock Auto but you have to put a bit of a Curl in the cable to get the extra length taking care of.
Thought I had a comparison picture of the 2 throttle cables but can't find it.
 
The later A throttle cable is about 4" longer than the early ones. The later ones are available cheap from Rock Auto but you have to put a bit of a Curl in the cable to get the extra length taking care of.
Thought I had a comparison picture of the 2 throttle cables but can't find it.

I'm beginning to wonder what I have on the car now. It must be a stock 4bbl cable. It's 14" long. Maybe I just don't have it adjusted correctly. I noticed the Mancini Racing site has one for '65-'76 A body and it's 24" long. That seems way too long for a narrow body.
 
Anytime you do a 2bbl to 4bbl conversion it is the manifold mounted bracket for the throttle cable and the kickdown rod (if it is an a/t) That must be changed or modified if want to do some cutting and welding.
Everything is too short after the change.
 
I'm beginning to think there is something not right about my pedal assembly. With the throttle cable properly adjusted, my pedal is too close to the floor, so I'm not getting full pedal travel.

If you look at the pedal assembly rod, you can see that it's been brazed. I wonder if a previous owner had to weld the bracket back to the rod and got the clock position wrong.

I'm running an LD340 intake. I have a stock 340 throttle bracket.

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I heated my pedal bracket & bent it up some. Now the pedal rides higher. That solved my problems.
 
Have you tried adjusting the cable? Loosen the clamp and slide back the housing to take up the excess slack, then reclamp.
 
Have you tried adjusting the cable? Loosen the clamp and slide back the housing to take up the excess slack, then reclamp.

After taking the photo I moved it back all the way to edge of the throttle bracket, and that gave me a little more, but I still have about a half an inch of cable that can't be accessed with the pedal.

I think bending the gas pedal actuator up a little might be the ticket.
 
If you look at the pedal assembly rod, you can see that it's been brazed. I wonder if a previous owner had to weld the bracket back to the rod and got the clock position wrong.

The OEM weld on my throttle bracket broke in exactly the same place when the car was less than ten years old (but it had more than 100K on it). Local shop brazed it back. Few years later, the braze broke, so had another shop weld it. That fixed it (although I eventually swapped in another bracket). But yeah, if yours was not clocked correctly when welded or brazed, you could lose travel. Agree that heating and bending up the hanging spoon part would give you more travel before it hits the floor.
 
Here's how high my 63 Valiant's pedal sits. Just for reference. (It's a later A body swing pedal setup adapted to an early A floor pedal.)

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I heated the rod with a torch and bent it up about a half inch. That did the ticket. The gas pedal now gives full throttle to the carb. Thanks for contributing to my troubleshooting ya'll.

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