Timing problem

[glhx]

What is the point of making an 80" speedometer cable that doesn't work for the car. Did they universally make it to fit an rv as well?

 

[sireland67]

I got the correct length one from napa

 

[glhx]

Do you have a link to that. I looked at napa and they have the 80" as well. Could not find anything anywhere that was correct length.

I bought a used one a few minutes ago that's original but it may need some maintenance.

Still I'd like a new one

 

[Tooljunkie]

I checked for my barracuda,63" long made by ATP. Found it online in less than a minute.

 

[glhx]

I found the atp y804 that's 63" for the older cars with the screw on ends.

The only one it shows for mine is the atp y881 which is 80" which has the plastic clip. I haven't been able to find one that's shorter than that for less than $60

The used one was $20......hopefully it will work out.

 

[sireland67]

Now thinking back my Duster needed screw ends, because I used an Autometer speedometer.
I got a factory one for a 65 barracuda, it was 63" and was way cheaper than the Autometer sells, I did pay less than $30 for it. Local NAPA actually had it in stock.

 

[glhx]

I don't know why they make only an 80" on the cheaper ones....

There's a lot of cars that take the 61"
Every a,b,e body form 68 to 76.

And that's a guess.. they must have a cost reason

 

[krazykuda]

I don't know why they make only an 80" on the cheaper ones....

There's a lot of cars that take the 61"
Every a,b,e body form 68 to 76.

And that's a guess.. they must have a cost reason

Yeah, it's easier for them to only make the long one and tell us tough **** take it or leave it....

 

[glhx]

I wasn't going to post it.

But what about taking the white tip off of the 881 and putting it on the 804?

 

[krazykuda]

I wasn't going to post it.

But what about taking the white tip off of the 881 and putting it on the 804?

How would you secure it??? The plastic ends are usually molded on the end of the conduit...

 

[4spdragtop]

Check these guys
ATP Automotive | Automatic Transmission Parts

 

[glhx]

Even the used speedometer cable I just got from eBay has a cracked plastic white housing that is compressed on the cable.

The cheaper ones use a band to connect the white housing.

I'm wondering if I can compress the newer plastic one or just zip tie the broken one. It seems like I did a repair like this years ago. I would drill a very tiny hole in the white housing to stop the crack from getting worse and spreading. A trick I've used in anything cracked to stop the crack dead in its tracks as they only spread and get worse over time.

I don't remember exactly. I'm going to look closer at it today. What can I expect for a 50 year old cable. Wasn't dropping $80 on a cable. I'd rather get a distributor that's electric or something else for right now. If this doesn't work I will just do that but I think I can repair it or change out the white piece. I want to say I ran into this before
Glue
Compression
Banded
Sleeve Bushing
Ideal clamp even.......not like I'm ever going to see it and it would last.


There is an 80" on my car now and I'm not impressed with its function and accuracy.

I also might have the wrong gear in there to drive it. I'm going to look at that as well.

I also didn't know that the gear housing goes in a certain way according to the gear that sits in it.

It probably clocked wrong.




I have a new
gas tank
Sending unit
Seals.

All going in today.

I recommend painting a new gas tank in places with a good silver paint.


The galvanization on these isn't all that good and it rusted some on the outside of the new one I got 7 years ago. I'll post pictures of it where mine rusted. Spray painting it would be fine just to give it that extra protection. Mine rusted on the top part of the seam

I put acetone in there and going to check it today. I think dawn and water might work. Determined to clean out that old gas to a new finish as it was using no abrasives and no acidic products to eat the finish. Lots of information in the net and opinions but few pictures.

And the sending unit. These units are not completely stainlessas they are advertised. They just look like it. Mine rusted due to what I can only think of as acidic gas breaking down. It ate the brass float down to nothing and the old gas that dried out on the sending unit. Ate through the nickel plating and rusted it. Moisture and water in gas would have just made this old into worse over time.

A new unit was in order even though the old one was never really used but once or twice. I found shopping around helped a lot. The sending unit was $38
The gas tank was $69
The filler neck seal was $14

I want this car to be daily drivable and fully functional.

When the fuel system is done I'll go back to getting it runnin.

I'm wondering if that dead spot off idle is a big vacuum leak. Allowing air to come in unmixed and running it lean.

 

[nm9stheham]

If it was a big vacuum leak, then the idle would be messed up too. It is more likely the progressive circuits, that cover the transition from idle to cruise; if it acts this way with a slow opening of the throttle, that is likely it. If with a fast opening of the throttle, then look at the accelerator pump, and the well under the nozzle; look for gum and crud around the check ball/weight in that well.

BTW, I really think you need to clean the carb thoroughly if you have not done so. Filters catch some things but not necessarily all of the super fine stuff. And they won't stop gum from forming in the carb after the ethanol has flowed through.

 

[AJ/FormS]

I'm wondering if that dead spot off idle is a big vacuum leak. Allowing air to come in unmixed and running it lean.

While the carb is off,check your T-port sync; if the throttle is too far closed, the transfers will be as good as dead. You can still make it idle on the idle mixture screws, but when you gently apply the throttle, it takes a fraction of a second to bring the transfers up to speed, and that is often interpreted as a flat spot. Just crank in the curb idle screw 1 full turn and see if it gets better.

 

[glhx]

The is a screw that is under the carb that controls how far the throttle blade is open.

The carburetor came to me used with this set up strange. The throttle blades were not closed, they were more open. Messed with that screw to close them. I didn't get them too tight.

I also didn't know how to properly adjust that screw.
Is this the t port sync?


I'll take it back off and clean it. So far I've gotten all the fuel out of the lines. I'm concerned about residual build up in the lines and the fuel pump. Might not be a problem. Not sure yet.

 

[nm9stheham]

Look at the tiny vertical slots near the blades in the lower secondary throats; those are are the secondary transition circuit slots. The typical adjustment of that screw would be so that the portion of those secondary transition slots below the blades look like squares when the blades are closed. In other words, a bit of each slot should appear below the blade when closed. You may have to adjust it again from there as you get the car running and test it out.

At idle, this secondary adjustment will effect the air flow into the engine, and thus will effect where the primary blades want to sit at idle. The primaries at idle should also sit so that the just the lower end of the primary transition slots are exposed under the primary blades. If the secondary blades are too open or closed, it will effect the primary blade setting and that in turn effects primary transition circuit operation, and that is how you can get the slight off-idle bog.

The t-port sync is the combination of the 2 transition slots openings.

Here is a pretty good discussion:
Holley Carburetor: Idle and Transition Circuit Calibration Guide

 

[glhx]

When I take it off I'll send pictures of the transfer slots.

Learning a lot here

 

[glhx]

Inside of gas tank after leaving it for 7 years. The tank was new-


Old gas ate the float and ate through the nickel plating on the sending unit electrical housing. These units are advertised as stainless. The rest of the unit is stainless.-


Gas tank that was new. After sitting 7 years. The galvanization isn't very good. The car was barely driven. -


-


-


-


This is the new tank.................I scuffed it with a scotch brite pad. A lot of loose galvanized coating came off. I then cleaned it with wax and grease remover till the tank was clean. Then painted it with rustoleum clear gloss paint. Not clear coat. I'm hoping it will stick just fine to the galvanization and bare metal spots without chipping.i think it will be fine. Usually you primer it first but since the tank was galvanized and scuffed it should work well. -

 

[glhx]

Ok.......So the new tank is in and good gas going to the carburetor.

Then the starter went out. So I put a mini starter on it for the Herman headers I'm going to run.

 

[glhx]

Car still won't work right.


It doesn't make any sense. Not to me anyway.
Here's why


When I set the timing to 0° or 10°
It's advanced heavily

I retarded it 10°......it's advanced heavily and backfiring out the intake.

The advance nipple is parallel to the firewall. The number 1 is right in front of the distributor. No angle.



We then turned it a lot. Counter clockwise. Like 45° and it at least ran some. Feathering the throttle kept it running. It would not idle.



This car ran with this Holley and bad gas.
It had 11" vacuum and the carb was tuned at idle to get max vacuum. I thought the vac might have been low because of the timing with the carb I just put on. A used Holley 600.

So I loosened the distributor thinking it would be easy to time and that when the trouble started. The bad gas was not old gas.

It was new gas put into the tank that was contaminated by the dried up gas. Might be why it ran at all.

At this point I'm a little frustrated with it.

When I set the timing mark to zero......the piston is at tdc visually.

 

[glhx]

I'm not good with these carbureted cars. I need idiot proof step by step instructions as to how to deal with this. I might have multiple proble,me and I'm chasing several things

 

[nm9stheham]

Can you explain what you mean by being 0 to 10 * advanced but then it is 'heavily advanced'? How are you setting this 0 to 10* advance?

BTW, make sure that your vacuum advance hose is on the right nipple on the carb. This distributor should run on ported (or timed) vacuum, NOT manifold vacuum. Remove the hose from the vacuum advance and plug it for now to get that variable out of the equation.

When you physically rotated the distributor 45* CCW, you advanced the timing about 90* !! So your starting point was waaaay off. Back up a bit and makes some basic checks.

1) Pull the left valve cover and rotate the engine CW to TDC (0 marks aligned on crank and timing cover) and look for both valves to be moving on cylinder #1; 1E will be closing and 1I will be opening, and both will be open about equal amounts at TDC. If this does not happen when you reached TDC, then rotate the engine 1 more turn CW to TDC again and at that point for sure, 1E and 1I should be slightly open about equal amounts. If this does not occur at TDC, then the damper ring has slipped or the timing chain has jumped and either problem needs fixing. You have done a basic check of cam timing and your damper ring at this point.
2) If 1E and 1I are indeed open equal amounts at TDC, then that is the point at which NUMBER 6 is firing (not #1).
3) Move the crank 30-40* CCW, and then move slowly CW until the crank mark is at the 10BTDC timing cover mark and stop there.
4) Then install the distributor with the rotor pointing at spark tower#6. Then rotate the distributor slightly so that the gap in the reluctor is right at one of the sharp points on the distributor shaft.
5) Use a non steel feeler gauge, adjust the gap between the reluctor and the shaft point to .008". If no non-steel feeler is around, use brass (or 3 thicknesses of light copier/printer paper, which is about .009").

At this point, your timing should be pretty darned close, and you can fire it up and see what happens. Put the timing light on it and you should have to make only small adjustments to the timing to get to 10* advance. If it still runs like crap, then DON'T mess with the timing... look elsewhere. The next steps will be to look at the spark, and then the carb.

 

[glhx]

-

This looks right. My number 1 is there where it supposed to be when set at 0° This is correct.

by --
This is where my vacuum advance is.......at 0°. When I have the car at tdc my distributor looks like this. Exactly.

However.......in my case even though it all looks right.
When it is all in this poisiton it is backfiring out the intake. I have to turn the distributor advance canister all the way to cylinder 8 in the picture to get the car to even run. .

That's why I'm so confused

 

[68Dartvader]

lot of good help here. make sure #1 spark plug wire is in the correct spot on the cap. i know this ☺☺☺ because mine wss not had same issue. #1 was in #8.

 

[krazykuda]

Have you verified TDC with a TDC stop tool???

How do you know that the timing marks on the balancer are not off/wrong???

You have to start with the basics and work your way up....

Until you know where your crank TDC is, you're chasing your tail...