Timing problem

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So I pulled the tank for good measure. The bad gas has coated the tank in dried up bad gas and is crusted on the inside all over the tank.

At first I thought it was rust. The tank was new.
The brass float has disintegrated and was not even sitting in the sending unit and the fuel sock net was 50% ate up and gone.

Safe to say it was causing a huge problem.

What can I used to break down this bad gas?

Will post pictures
 
glhx said:
So I pulled the tank for good measure. The bad gas has coated the tank in dried up bad gas and is crusted on the inside all over the tank.

At first I thought it was rust. The tank was new.
The brass float has disintegrated and was not even sitting in the sending unit and the fuel sock net was 50% ate up and gone.

Safe to say it was causing a huge problem.

What can I used to break down this bad gas?

Will post pictures
Click to expand...

Try some Barryman's 12...

They carry it at Auto Zone and I think it comes in big containers also (like quart or gallon etc....)

Put it in the tank and slosh it around...

CAUTION: Do not use indoors - fumes....
 
I almost sounds like it had some nasty race fuel mix in there to eat up the float and sock like that.
 
nm9stheham said:
I almost sounds like it had some nasty race fuel mix in there to eat up the float and sock like that.
Click to expand...
It sat for about 7 years like this.
Don't know how far down it went. A lot of stuff needed replaced. More rust and things not working. It's taken quite a bit to get it back on the road in a reliable way.
Whatever breaks down gasoline
 
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36110369382_1d3678ebc3_z.jpg
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The brass float was eaten. The crusty dirt on the sending unit it old gas. The new seals for the tank were all cracked. When I put acetone on it and scrubbed it. Didn't touch it.

35444479444_88fd728bea_z.jpg

Old crusted gas. That should look silver in color. The tank is entirely caked in it.

Acetone isn't touching it. Going to see if a radiator shop can boil it out chemically.

I've heard that denatured alcohol works. If acetone doesn't.....I don't know. That's some powerful stuff and it's not touching it. It's sealed up so I'll give it a couple of days to see if it breaks down.

Could have been a lot of my problem. I didn't see any sediment in the second filter so I think it's ok in the carburetor.

Can't find a float for sale. It's almost better to by the whole sending unit. It's $44
And comes with the sock, lock ring, and gasket

The sock and lock ring gasket alone are $15.
Not to mention the cost alone of the float with is probably around $10 if I can find it.

My sending unit was new......7 years ago....all this stuff was new.

I found a tank new on eBay for $70 sniped. I spent $25 today alone on acetone to clean it andnit didn't touch it. Gonna have to do some figuring
 
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glhx said:
View attachment 1715077586 -
The brass float was eaten. The crusty dirt on the sending unit it old gas. The new seals for the tank were all cracked. When I put acetone on it and scrubbed it. Didn't touch it.

View attachment 1715077587
Old crusted gas. That should look silver in color. The tank is entirely caked in it.

Acetone isn't touching it. Going to see if a radiator shop can boil it out chemically.

I've heard that denatured alcohol works. If acetone doesn't.....I don't know. That's some powerful stuff and it's not touching it. It's sealed up so I'll give it a couple of days to see if it breaks down.

Could have been a lot of my problem. I didn't see any sediment in the second filter so I think it's ok in the carburetor.

Can't find a float for sale. It's almost better to by the whole sending unit. It's $44
And comes with the sock, lock ring, and gasket

The sock and lock ring gasket alone are $15.
Not to mention the cost alone of the float with is probably around $10 if I can find it.

My sending unit was new......7 years ago....all this stuff was new.

I found a tank new on eBay for $70 sniped. I spent $25 today alone on acetone to clean it andnit didn't touch it. Gonna have to do some figuring
Click to expand...

4spdragtop said:
Keep your old lockring and reuse it!
Click to expand...


Steve's right, the new repop lock rings are crappy - too thin and won't seal....

Save the old lock ring and re-use it....
 
I agree with that. I did use the original one.

I was able to get the gas sediment off the sending unit with dawn. But it ate through the coating on the unit. It's $25 to replace the float, sock, rubber seal. I for $10 more I replaced the unit.

The sand or sediment sitting in the bowl of water would have clogged the carb.

The question I have is.
My radiator shop wants $150 to clean the tank
A new tank is $70

This tank has the deposits on it as shown.
I could get the deposits off of there with (oxyclean)sodium percarbonate.

Maybe the acetone will work. I'm wondering if it's even worth it.
The coating that was eaten off the sending unit also ate the float.

Would it have eaten the gas tanks in er coating.
And

Is gas acidic when it breaks down. I've never seen this problem before or I would have dropped the tank years ago and it's very easy to do and could be advised to others parking it for years at a time.

I think the gas all evaporated out totally. I put new gas in it.
It mixed with the residue.

There was no way around a quick fix with this. Even though all of it was new when I parked the car.

The seals were all dry rotted on the filler tube and sending unit.

It alsmost should have been another thread. I think this may have been a lot of the problem though.

I'll find out
 
I would put new tank in it. Have you got part # for sending unit? Im going to be replacing on my 69 as well.
 
I'm just replacing it. No sense in messing around with all that.

I'll test cleaning the one that came out with some different stuff. Like oxyclean or whatever for future reference as most of the stuff online is very inconclusive. No pictures or proven results.

I want this thing on the road with 0 problems fully functioning.
 
Change the tank, sending unit and tank seal. Not worth the time or risk to salvage what you have.
Been there done that. Neverseez the lockring gasket on assembly and be very careful with the tank
filler tube grommet seal. It's catastrophic when they fail at the pumps with a tank full of non ethanol
92 premium. Brings out the screaming greenie teen girls----------------:)
 
Yeah it's not worth messing with to clean it. I'll make sure it seals well at the filler tube grommet. Then go back to seeing if I can get the car running.
 
I would put everything back in new.
White viniger and some steel bb's will actually clean that old tank up, but it takes about a month of shaking it.
My local radiator shop will boil a tank and coat it for around 50 bucks, he is great with cleaning old motorcycle tanks and not destroying original paint.
 
glhx said:
I agree with that. I did use the original one.

I was able to get the gas sediment off the sending unit with dawn. But it ate through the coating on the unit. It's $25 to replace the float, sock, rubber seal. I for $10 more I replaced the unit.

The sand or sediment sitting in the bowl of water would have clogged the carb.

The question I have is.
My radiator shop wants $150 to clean the tank
A new tank is $70

This tank has the deposits on it as shown.
I could get the deposits off of there with (oxyclean)sodium percarbonate.

Maybe the acetone will work. I'm wondering if it's even worth it.
The coating that was eaten off the sending unit also ate the float.

Would it have eaten the gas tanks in er coating.
And

Is gas acidic when it breaks down. I've never seen this problem before or I would have dropped the tank years ago and it's very easy to do and could be advised to others parking it for years at a time.

I think the gas all evaporated out totally. I put new gas in it.
It mixed with the residue.

There was no way around a quick fix with this. Even though all of it was new when I parked the car.

The seals were all dry rotted on the filler tube and sending unit.

It alsmost should have been another thread. I think this may have been a lot of the problem though.

I'll find out
Click to expand...

I've rinsed tanks out with a garden hose before, until all the sediment is out...

Or blast it at a do-it-yourself car wash...
 
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Use to be able to buy a gallon can of carb dip at NAPA. Don't know if it can still be got or in the same formulation. That was some nasty stuff but I bet that would clean it up shiny.
 
lomchivok said:
Use to be able to buy a gallon can of carb dip at NAPA. Don't know if it can still be got or in the same formulation. That was some nasty stuff but I bet that would clean it up shiny.
Click to expand...

This stuff works great on carbs and the black sooty build-up:

Barrymans A02.png


Barrymans A01.png


Barrymans A03.jpg
 
Just soaked a complete carb in pine-sol. I was amazed how clean it came. 50/50 with water. Weaker mix longer soak.

I had a fuel tank off a 27 studebaker,2" of rubber like material in the tank. Was a disaster. Someone suggested aviation gas. I got some. Didnt touch it,poured gas out and was still clear. Scraped with sticks and washed it repeatedly. Acetone did cut it. Perhaps naptha?
Strapped tank to my tractor wheel and jacked it off the ground. Threw some chain in and let it roll for 30 minutes. Cleaned it nice.

If you can get a tank and sender for less than 200, why you screwin around? I wouldnt. My time is becoming more precious the older i get.
 
Set it at zero. It'll be fine. It's not my vehicle, so why do I give a **** if it runs like crap?
 
Tooljunkie said:
Just soaked a complete carb in pine-sol. I was amazed how clean it came. 50/50 with water. Weaker mix longer soak.

I had a fuel tank off a 27 studebaker,2" of rubber like material in the tank. Was a disaster. Someone suggested aviation gas. I got some. Didnt touch it,poured gas out and was still clear. Scraped with sticks and washed it repeatedly. Acetone did cut it. Perhaps naptha?
Strapped tank to my tractor wheel and jacked it off the ground. Threw some chain in and let it roll for 30 minutes. Cleaned it nice.

If you can get a tank and sender for less than 200, why you screwin around? I wouldnt. My time is becoming more precious the older i get.
Click to expand...

Exactly why I just bought it all new today. Getting older and don't want to mess with it. Think total it was $130 for the sending unit, gaskets, and tank. Shopped around a lot.

Anyone know the speedometer cable length for a 69 dart with a 904?
The one from autozone is 80". It works but seems too long and binds up some.
It came out of the holder under the car and the exhaust pipe burned the case.
They never get the cable length right at the parts houses. To me it seems more like less than 70"

My trans am was the same way. Way to long. Finally researched it and went back ten years and that was right length for that car. Worked well after that.
 
glhx said:
Exactly why I just bought it all new today. Getting older and don't want to mess with it. Think total it was $130 for the sending unit, gaskets, and tank. Shopped around a lot.

Anyone know the speedometer cable length for a 69 dart with a 904?
The one from autozone is 80". It works but seems too long and binds up some.
It came out of the holder under the car and the exhaust pipe burned the case.
They never get the cable length right at the parts houses. To me it seems more like less than 70"

My trans am was the same way. Way to long. Finally researched it and went back ten years and that was right length for that car. Worked well after that.
Click to expand...


Here's the mopar performance one that is 63" long and comes with the firewall grommet... But it co$ts more, but the 80" is too long and will bind or hit exhaust if you don't take up the excess, which will then make it bind...

So pay the money and get the proper length one...

Mopar Performance Factory Speedometer Cable

The house brand mancini is 80" long and no grommet, and cheaper...

Mancini Racing Speedometer Cable
 
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