I Love how that cars startin to look if ya get board i finaly got my project on here 5.7L hemi Duster/resto.:cheers:
Ryan, It's no problem at all. I am by no means an expert, all I can really comment on is what I have done. The best way to measure for the axle is to place the wheels and tires up under the car where they are going to be then measure. My rear measured 48" flange to flange, overall 53.5" with a pinion offset of 0.75". The spring perches are 36" however I would only get them tacked in position because you have to set the pinion angle (typically 3 degrees).
Are you minitubbing or full tubbing? if mini I would recommend your axle be at least 1.6" wider than mine, ( my backspace is 6") my tires are slightly closer to the frame than to the outer wheelhouse. (I'm considering a 1/4" spacer just to center the tire in the wheelwell a little better). I think it is better to error on the short side rather than long. It is easy to add a little, but a ***** to take away. If I were you I would go with a 55.5" overall dimension, but please double check all your measurements.
Hope this helps.
My measurement was done with the wheels under the car and centered as best as I possibly could.. I have noticed with these wells that it would be better to have them further in then out because of how much the outer wheelhouse leans in and the inner goes practically straight up. The car is mini-tubbed, not full tubbed. Having them further in means they can always be spaced out as well, although I would really prefer to just do it right and not have to space the wheels. I'll be going with Bill's rear suspension setup so pinion angle will be adjusted through the upper links, not the pads. Your spring perch measurement matches mine which is good! Can you list your wheel and tire specs for me(offset & backspacing)?
Here are some pictures of how the wheels are centered when I took the 54.75" measurement. As well as just a couple other pictures of the car.. the stance isn't right in the front or rear, so ignore that for now.
http://img19.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=dsc01365la.jpg
Nice looking car.
Nice looking car, It's nice to see someone else doing an early A Pro Tour. One trick I did was to duct tape 2 pieces of 1" thick wood to the outer chassis rail to rest the tires against, so I knew I would have 1" of spacing on the inside. My rear wheels are 18 x 10 with 6" BS, the offset is included in the backspacing ( my wheels are 10" wide with 6" BS = 1" positive offset, because if you moved the mounting surface back 1", my wheels would be 5" + 5" = 0 offset) check out this link; http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=101.
If your wheels are 10.5" with 6.8" BS that would give you 1.55" pos offset. So if we add 1.55" to my dimension of 53.5" gives us 55". And like I said earlier, my rear probably should have been a 1/2" wider, ( I have plenty of clearence to the frame, the spacers would only be for apperance) so add that to our number and we get 55.5". Add 1/4" to your number to be safe, 55" wide.
You do what you think is best, but if it is too tight to the chassis they will rub whenever the body leans. So TRIPLE check those numbers... Good Luck.
By the way, your tires are 315-35-17 which equals 12.4" wide x 25.7" tall, my tires are 285-40-18 which is 11.2" wide x 27" tall. You have a very wide tire there, and on a 10.5" rim there will be some balooning of the sidewall. Take your time and measure carefully, those wheel tubs are going to be full!
Yeah, the Nitto's are known to run narrow and they are, although to be fair there isn't any weight on them at all without an axle or anything. Surprisingly for being a 10.5" rim the sidewall fits perfectly.. And yes, the tubs are full, but I have at minimum a 1/2" on the inside of the rails right now and I can slide 2 fingers fairly easily through the outer wheel house. I could've, with bigger wheels, fit 335's.. 13.5" section width tires in a 3200lb vehicle with 600hp, corvette's watchout! :snakeman:
Typically the rear end manufacturers recommend at least 1" of clearance to the inside for a street car. There is another way to double check this, we know the dimension of the frame rails (outside to outside) add 2" to that number for clearance (1" per side) then Take a straight edge across the back of the tire and measure your total backspacing (wheel & tire). Add that (X2) to the previous measurement and see what you get. If you get 54.75" then that's it.
Theoretically 38" wide rails + 2" clearance = 40" + (2) 7.375"BS = 54.75" Give or take...
Where did you come up with 50.25" ??? I hope that was just a typo...Our rails are 38.5" wide on the outside, and 33.5" inches wide on the inside(measured at the front spring hangers), making the rails each 2.5" inches wide, which leads to the measurement for pads being 36"(center to center), by your math, with my measurement on the rails, the rear end needs to be 50.25" or 50" at the axles, pending an 1/8" thick rotors mounting on the axle. We should start a business doing this Tin, we really got it down eh? :read2: It was funny today when I called up Bill and ordered the suspension and he brought up brake width, made me go #-o but it turned out to be no problem at all.
-Ryan
Hey, I thought this was about cars and not trying to figure out the orbital trajectory of the Lunar cycle when all the planets are in line???...lol
Where did you come up with 50.25" ??? I hope that was just a typo...
LOL, yes! It was! 55.25"