To crate or not to crate

-

Ironmike

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2009
Messages
1,430
Reaction score
199
Location
Western Pa
Thanks to many guys on this forum my 340 is running great. It's in a 71 Demon, 4 speed, 4:10 rear end.
Equipped with a Mopar 508 cam, Holley 750DP, Edelbrock RPM Air gap intake, Hughes roller rockers, Dougs headers and Accel multi strike ignition. I believe I finally have an outstanding tune on the engine. It's REAL strong.

The problem is, I want more performance...and, since it's an original car, I don't want to throw a rod or something. My problem is although I take very good care of the car, I also like to run it hard on occasion.

I have spoken with 3 guys who have engines from the builer below and all are happy. I've been burned on a crate years ago and have cold feet.
This company seems to have an outstanding rep among the local Mopar crowd.

Please take a look at the stats and tell me what you guys think of the motor below. Wondering if it will give me a real noticable difference, seat of the pants, or not.

"CHRYSLER SMALL BLOCK 408 STROKER"
450 PLUS HORSEPOWER

HIGH PERFORMANCE STREET ENGINE
CAROLINA MACHINE ENGINES uses the highest Quality brand products including: Bullit, Clevite, Cloyes, Comp Cams, Corteco, Eagle, Elgin, Federal Mogul, Felpro, Hastings, Lunati, Manley, Melling, Perfect Circle, Pioneer, Probe, RHS, Scat, Speed Pro and Victor Reinz.
Except for the seasoned and
SONIC TESTED block, this engine is all NEW. The block assembly is equipped with forged pistons, moly rings, brass expansion plugs, cast steel 4.00" Stroker crankshaft, 4340 forged steel rods, and Clevite bearings.
The longblock is further equipped with
EDELBROCK performance aluminum heads, 2.02"/1.6" diameter stainless steel valves, performance pushrods, valve springs, hydraulic lifters, Stainless steel roller rocker arms, true roller timing set and a camshaft with over .540" lift and 290/240 degrees duration.
It is expertly machined, balanced, blueprinted, plate honed, line honed, and decked. It has been assembled by a highly capable technician and spin tested to check oil pressure, compression and oil circulation!
Added to the complete version are oil pan, oil pump, oil pump screen, timing cover, harmonic balancer, polished aluminum valve covers, dual plane performance aluminum intake manifold, oil filter, oil filter adapter, dipstick, and spark plugs.
To remove the possibility of "New Engine Bugs", our complete versions are then dynamometer tested and "broken-in" with the proper carburetor, a performance distributor and quality headers and mufflers. The actual Dyno sheet from the dyno printer, not a copy or generic, is provided with the engine. A final crankcase pressure test and oil filter internal inspection is performed.
When used with the recommended accessories, this engine is guaranteed to produce over 450 horsepower at around 5500 RPM and over 500 foot-pounds of torque at around 4000 RPM.
It will have approximately 10.5 to 1 compression ratio and will have a "Rough" High Performance idle. It will have lower manifold vacuum and needs quality headers and exhaust system in order to produce the advertised horsepower.
We recommended a 2800 to 3500 RPM stall torque converter to realize the maximum performance potential of the engine.
A 12 Month - 12,000 Mile written warranty is supplied with the engine.
================================================================================
CAROLINA MACHINE ENGINES is a professional automotive Engine Builder employing dozens of highly trained and motivated craftsmen, technicians and other personnel. Most of which are experts in the automotive field totaling hundreds of years experience.
Our credentials and credibility are unsurpassed. The Quality and dependability of our engines are derived from the vast experience gained from the production of over 42,000 engines since 1984 and over 40 years of intense involvement in racing and street performance. We believe it is impossible to reach our high level of achievement without such experience and that we are very fortunate to have acquired it.
Our passion continues with our company race team which consists of the owner/driver and several key employees. The CME race team participates regularly at national and divisional events held by the National Hot Rod Association, where we have garnered two NHRA World championships, thirteen national titles and five divisional championships. Also numerous Class titles and National Records. Our customers can be assured of our competence.
 
I have always felt it is better not to crate since you know exactly what you have, it is not about the $$s to me, but what you have imop:)
 
What is the cost of it?
The CME site lists it at 6995 for the "complete engine",not bad if it makes what they say it will and depending on what their "recommended accessories" are and cost to make those numbers it might be a pretty good deal with the 12 month warrenty from what I've seen from Indy and some of the other guys
 
The cost seems OK for the machining and parts that are specified. I paid a local engine builder that price for my stroker a few years ago but it has cast crank. A forged steel crank will run a couple hundred higher than cast crank and should be easier to balance. Seems to be good value if the parts provided meet your wants.
 
If I had a local builder who was mopar savey and trustworthy I would pay him to build mine but unfortunately the local shops are all GM and Ford guys and the local big dog mopar guy can`t be trusted( he just buys other peoples motors and go`s through them ) so a crate is the best option around here , you need to be prepared to go through it before install thats all.- kinda like building your own but with a pre-assembled kit that has hopefully worked out any fitment issues eh !
 
No reliable Mopar builders here, either. The guy at CME told me "if you want, come on down when we dyno it. Load it up and go home".
They really do have a good rep around here. A guy at Quaker City drags has around 200 passes on one of their race engines, running in the low 10's. Couple local "show guys" are really happy, too.

The only thing that scares me a bit is the cast steel crank. Cast cranks in Chevy strokers don't usually hold up too well. Not sure about Mopars. I don't believe they do any port work on the heads either. Not sure.

I'm not sold yet, but I'm getting close.....
 
I'm sure they would swap the crank for a few bucks { few hundred probably } and port the heads for a few more after all the extras are where the money is , so what are these recommended accessories they speak of in their description ? I was thinking on a slightly bigger bang jobby from Indy's overstock page 520/500+ for 7995 but this seems like a better buy and Indy has taken down their overstock page at the moment so let me know what you go with and how it works out for you .
 
No reliable Mopar builders here, either. The guy at CME told me "if you want, come on down when we dyno it. Load it up and go home".
They really do have a good rep around here. A guy at Quaker City drags has around 200 passes on one of their race engines, running in the low 10's. Couple local "show guys" are really happy, too.

The only thing that scares me a bit is the cast steel crank. Cast cranks in Chevy strokers don't usually hold up too well. Not sure about Mopars. I don't believe they do any port work on the heads either. Not sure.

I'm not sold yet, but I'm getting close.....

You've got Ryan J. right there in Pennsylvania one of the best reps around on Mopars especially small blocks...
 
Who and where is Ryan J.? I'm certainly in for a local build if he's within 100 miles or so.
 
I wouldn't buy ANYONES crate motor..............




mine is a 300 h.p.with a hughes her 1828.runs great.that cam really woke it up.est.380h.p. with a 3k convertor 391 gears and a cope built tranny and mvb.in a duster,it is pretty fast
 
mine is not a crate but a built to order 525 hp 410cu built by Brian at IMM complete carb to pan ,MSD billet distributor to aluminum water pump dyno tested and broken in with a roller cam {= no additives needed } for under 8k including extra porting work which will allow me to up the cam for even more power if I want to race it , give him a call and get more bang for your buck and personalized customer service from a mopar guy who also races what he builds .
 
Not to hijack or anything - but has anyone had any dealings with the 440 Super Commando engine from mopartsracing.com? Built from a New 340 Siamese Block with 4-Bolt Mains, claiming around 540 hp with 550 ft-lbs. torque. I don't know the cost but it might be something to look at.
 
Not to hijack or anything - but has anyone had any dealings with the 440 Super Commando engine from mopartsracing.com? Built from a New 340 Siamese Block with 4-Bolt Mains, claiming around 540 hp with 550 ft-lbs. torque. I don't know the cost but it might be something to look at.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-5153523/

14K+ No thanks!
 
CME has been around for a while.
They give you the dyno sheet for the actual engine you buy (not one for the formula build).
Who the hell would warranty a drag racing engine, unless it wasn't gonna come back?
I was thinking of having them build me a B block 444, or a 10:1 400.

Some of their HP numbers seem a bit conservative, vs the potential.

The only negative has been that I asked what cam they used in a particular build, and they wouldn't tell me.
If I'm gonna shell out 6K plus for a new motor, you ARE gonna tell me what cam you used.

In their defense, it was the first email, and I asked a LOT of questions.
 
buy another block and build it yourself, hire the machine work out but assemble it yourself it would likely be cheaper and you would know what you have
 
I personally like crate engines. I have bought several over the years with very good results. My 472 was perfect out of the box dyno tuned ready to run. best engine i ever owned. Wish I still had it:sad8:
 
I question the "cheaper" aspect of hiring out machine work.

Last time I actually did the math it was about a wash on price, actually a little higher to do it "yourself".

Of course there the "blame" factor, if you do it yourself, you got no one to blame but,...well, you!
This could go either way as well.
 
Before I was laid off, 3 years ago, I had talked to the owner of CME a bunch.
He told me the cam; I had problems with the 11-1 cr. He said, with the alum heads, the bleed of on the cam; no problem. Thought abought it, talked to others, sounds good. Track record of honest.

Other people can do better, for more $. Longjecity matters too. Pick who ever. Warranty?

Buddy with the Charger; 2 engines in his chebby blew up in 45 minutes, built by local reputable shop. for the 440, went elsewhere- warrantied for a year, but has over-heating sensors on it. Over heat- void, but otherwise run the snot out of it, good to 7500, but cam/drivability you wanted chokes at 6000.

You have to find a mopar builder, with a track record, then find people that bought from him. There are a lot of happy people in here, and b body, with CME. Not tooting his horn, just saying. He doesn't do Brian's porting job.
 
Can't believe someone replied to my old post.
Have since had Brian at IMM build me a 519HP/539FtLb 410. Installed last November or so. I guess you could call it a crate engine, since it came in one....but that's the only reason.
Put 2000 miles on it last summer and it is one angry torque monster. I mean nasty! Fastest car I've ever had by far. Soooo much torque, right off idle.
Brian was great about the whole build, tweaking a little as we progressed.
Right now, I couldn't be happier. As far as longevity goes....we'll see.
 
-
Back
Top