To keep 440-1 top end or not

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afstegg

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i have a 500ci 440 with a 440-1 top end.comp cam 23-707-9 mech roller cam,1.5 roller rockers. flat top srp pistons. bottom end has a eagle crank and rods
my question is how much work has to be done to my existing headers? hooker super comp fender well headers with 2'' primarys. car has a 440 in it now. was thinking of selling heads and intake to get 440ez's or eddys so im not cutting up headers. i searched and didnt see any post about mods done to make them fit.

thanks for any info
 
Wouldn't it be less expensive to buy new headers? TTi headers are probably $800 but that is a lot less money than a new set of heads.
 
I maybe wrong but I thought the tti's required motor plate or aftermarket k member.
 
afstegg said:
I maybe wrong but I thought the tti's required motor plate or aftermarket k member.
Click to expand...

I don't think they do, but I haven't checked lately, either.

440-218
2-1/8" RAISED-DECK STEP HEADERS ...with 3.5" collectors

Fits Applications:
67-76 A-body, 62-74 B-body & 70-74 E-body

Item #TTi 440-218


Engines:
413-440, 426 wedge, World Alum block
Cylinder Heads:
Headers designed for Indy-440-1 & Indy-440SR heads
If using Edelbrock Victor, Procomp or Stage6 heads, modification will be required to the headers.
Suspension:
67-76 A-body: Must use a Coilover suspension systems, without torsion bars
62-74 B-body & 70-74 E-body: OEM suspensions with torsion bars or Coilover suspension systems without torsion bars.
Click here for product details: Information, Fitment and Pricing

Sorry, having a bit of trouble with my copy and paste.
 
Keep the hookers. I run the same combo,440 stroked,Indy 440-1 heads and 2" super comp hookers. Stock front suspension. Stock disc brake master cylinder. Oh yeah, DC k-member. Used 1/2" aluminium squares to space the k-member down. A little clearancing to the back of the wheelwells, trim a little off the shock bayonet and that's it. Took less than a hour to install the spacers. If you run a motor plate,just cut the plate also. Factory did this with 68 hemi cudas and darts. For more carb to hood clearance.
 
Revhendo said:
I don't think they do, but I haven't checked lately, either.

440-218
2-1/8" RAISED-DECK STEP HEADERS ...with 3.5" collectors

Fits Applications:
67-76 A-body, 62-74 B-body & 70-74 E-body

Item #TTi 440-218


Engines:
413-440, 426 wedge, World Alum block
Cylinder Heads:
Headers designed for Indy-440-1 & Indy-440SR heads

Suspension:
67-76 A-body: Must use a Coilover suspension systems, without torsion bars
.
Click to expand...

I wish I had gone with those instead of the Proparts TTI makes for Mazzolini on my 540 with 440-1 heads. I am having to change over to coilovers with the Proparts anyways cause they interfere on the passenger side with the /6 torsion bars. Same 2 1/8 and 3 1/2 collectors.
 
I have run the hookers with stage 2 heads, stage 6 heads and now the indys. Stage 2, had to clearance the top side of the passenger header to get the valve cover off. Cast aluminium 4 bolt covers and factory cross ram. Stage 6 needed a little more clearance above the collectors. Cast mopar performance covers,drivers side was hard to get past the master cylinder. Indys hit master and seemed like everywhere else. Then I dropped the k and all was good. Wrap the headers near the master. Local track requires muffs so 4" Hooker Aero chambers are hung off the collectors. Works good for me.
 
I run my 540 on a plate and have the K frame still. Good idea to drop the suspension by dropping the K getting more clearance under stuff hanging from the motor, like torsion bars.

BTW, HDK (Hemi Denny) has a bolt-on way to mount coilovers which lets you lose the torsion bars for header clearance. I am probably gonna use it on my Demon since I am not involved in any racing that requires a stock front suspension like KOS did in the day.
 
I like torsion bars. And if installing something like headers,just remove the bars. Only takes ten minutes or so. Do what you gotta do and slide em back in. I count the turns on the adjusters and done. Only thing not obvious is to raise the lower control arm a bit so that bar will slide in and out easily.
 
afstegg said:
i have a 500ci 440 with a 440-1 top end.comp cam 23-707-9 mech roller cam,1.5 roller rockers. flat top srp pistons. bottom end has a eagle crank and rods
my question is how much work has to be done to my existing headers? hooker super comp fender well headers with 2'' primarys. car has a 440 in it now. was thinking of selling heads and intake to get 440ez's or eddys so im not cutting up headers. i searched and didnt see any post about mods done to make them fit.

thanks for any info
Click to expand...

your idea sounds like you're going backwards heading for lower performance. the guys have some very good ideas for you to consider.
 
I did manage to get tti headers in my demon with the same motor set up as you have but there was a few dents needed. the best way is to remove the torsion bars and go coil-overs and rack steering. tti's etc will fit right in or you could build your own like I did when I went with the supercharger. check out some of my other posts on how I did it.
 
I tried the tti's with my 440 with the 440-1 indy heads. I am using the elephant ears and had to move the motor over towards the drivers side some for the passenger side header to go in. Then I couldn't get the steering column to bolt back in, in the factory locations. I ended up modifying a set of proparts .
 
the e-z"s are awsome heads fully done < my buddie just put on his dart the headers were a fight either way buy he picked up big horsey"s and he gotthe idea from my bro inlaw who put them on his cloned super bee it was almost 800 hp at the rear wheels with the bottle if you can afford it do it its worth the ponies
 
I have long tube TTI's in my 72 iron headed 440 Dart with torsion bars. No problems at all.
 
Sorry to bump an old thread but just got motor back from being gone threw and have a few questions.

First being anyone have any pictures of how much they trimmed shock towers for fender well header clearance? I had some 1/2" spacers made to lower k frame and feel like I'm gonna run into steering shafts issues
 
Dont have pics at the moment but I can tell ya I only cut inner fender sheetmetal on mine. The front edge of the cut is right up to the shock support structure,driver and passenger sides. The back edge is about 1 1/2" from the firewall. The upper cut leaves about 1" of the flat surface and the bottom cut is about 4" above the frame rail. I also cut about 1" off the bayonet end of each shock. My steering column jacket was 'modified' many years ago. I think the only problem it might give you is with #7 plug.
 
hangn0ut said:
Dont have pics at the moment but I can tell ya I only cut inner fender sheetmetal on mine. The front edge of the cut is right up to the shock support structure,driver and passenger sides. The back edge is about 1 1/2" from the firewall. The upper cut leaves about 1" of the flat surface and the bottom cut is about 4" above the frame rail. I also cut about 1" off the bayonet end of each shock. My steering column jacket was 'modified' many years ago. I think the only problem it might give you is with #7 plug.
Click to expand...

I already had fender wells cut. Just seems like #5 and #6 are going to hit shock towers
 
Alignment,well I'am sure it changed but not enough to notice. I would think it only effects the camber. And mostly at the extremes of the suspension travel. Lower arm would pull the bottom of the tire in more in jounce and out more in rebound. Probably need a good rack to measure the change.
 
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