dart star
Disturbed Member
I have an HEI ignition that calls for no ballast and was wondering what would cause to much voltage my gauge reads 15- 15.5 volts any help would be appreciated thanks
To much voltage
- Thread starter dart star
- Start date
-
rob_robinson87
Well-Known Member
Voltage regulator issues. Which one do you have on the car? Old points, new electronic, blue box?
dart star
Disturbed Member
I have the D.U.I ignition HEI I checked continuity of regulator between
connectors its fine have a new one at home will try .
Can you suggest a performance one thanks
connectors its fine have a new one at home will try .
Can you suggest a performance one thanks
rob_robinson87
Well-Known Member
The replacement regulators out there are mostly electronic now. That is what you want. Make sure you stay away from the cheaper "autozone" ones. They may warranty their parts, but you may have to go through 4 or 5 before you get one that works right. I personally like the top of the line NAPA or Car Quest brand and they are normally in stock. CHECK YOUR GROUNDS!!! Make sure the screws are tight and clean. Also, stay away from the blue "race only" version. Those are a constant charge and will not vary the charge based off need and will eventually burn up your battery if you drive it any distance.
STAY AWAY FROM THIS ONE... unless you are racing only.
STAY AWAY FROM THIS ONE... unless you are racing only.
You have a voltage drop problem in ignition and charging circuit not a voltage regulator malfunction. It is regulating just fine based on bad information.
Somewhere there are poor or rather corroded connections reducing harness voltage the regulator is seeing. When voltage regulator sees low harness voltage (bad information) it directs the alternator to output higher voltage to make up the difference. In other words if harness is one volt low say about 12.5v, regulator will bump up alternator output one volt higher than normal so you will see 15.5 v at battery.
Some where there are poor or rather corroded connections reducing harness voltage the regulator is seeing. When voltage regulator sees low harness voltage it directs the alternator to output higher voltage to make up the difference. In other words if harness is one volt low say about 12.5v, regulator will bump up alternator output one volt higher than normal so you will see 15.5 v at battery.
To reduce voltage drop one has to remove any voltage reducing corrosion, and inadequate wire causing excess resistance in charging & ignition circuits. This includes the ground side of circuit as well as positive side. In other words there cannot be any voltage difference between negative battery terminal and chassis of regulator, spark controller if equipped, and alternator case. On plus side of circuit all connections need to be clean and fee of electrical resistance.
Check for voltage drop by measuring difference between battery terminal, and ant point in charging circuit. This is done by placing black VOM lead on (+) battery terminal, and the red on any point in that circuit. If you see more than 0.1 volt you have voltage drop at that point. Same method works for ground side, place black lead on (–) battery post, and red on any ground point in circuit; more than 0.1 volt, and something need to be cleaned and refastened to correct the problem.
Clean and remake battery cable and engine ground connections, ground head to fire wall, and make sure all grounded cases of components are electrically as battery negative terminal. On the plus side do the same, make sure brass connections at both sides of bulkhead connector are clean & tight, and then look for voltage drop at ignition switch.
If ground side is problematic you can make up a ground loop with #14 wire connecting mounting screws of voltage regulator, spark controller, alternator, and back to negative battery terminal. This will eliminate all bad connections in ground side of circuit.
rob_robinson87
Well-Known Member
I 100% agree with wjajr. I was assuming all your other wiring had been checked and double checked.
I was also suffering with voltage drop across the circuit, primarily from the ignition switch through the bulkhead connector to the ballast resistor (I'm talking about the "run" wire, not the "start" wire). After cleaning all connectors and still seeing a drop, the next and best solution I came up with was to use the "run" wire as a switch for an ignition relay and to provide a new clean power wire from the starter relay to the ignition relay I installed. That did two things, eliminated the voltage drop and stress through the old original wiring, bulkhead connectors, and ignition switch and provided a more accurate and clean power source for the voltage regulator and ignition system (I run the electronic conversion system on my Barracuda).
Along with that upgrade, I also provided an additional charging loop from the + of the alternator around to the starter relay again removing a lot of stress on the bulkhead connector.
Final upgrade were headlight relays which again lowered the stress on the headlamp switch and of course the power that runs through the bulkhead (seeing a pattern?)
These three upgrades has eliminated any dimming of headlights, poor charging, and stress on the bulkhead. Highly recommended for anyone planning on driving their cars!
I was also suffering with voltage drop across the circuit, primarily from the ignition switch through the bulkhead connector to the ballast resistor (I'm talking about the "run" wire, not the "start" wire). After cleaning all connectors and still seeing a drop, the next and best solution I came up with was to use the "run" wire as a switch for an ignition relay and to provide a new clean power wire from the starter relay to the ignition relay I installed. That did two things, eliminated the voltage drop and stress through the old original wiring, bulkhead connectors, and ignition switch and provided a more accurate and clean power source for the voltage regulator and ignition system (I run the electronic conversion system on my Barracuda).
Along with that upgrade, I also provided an additional charging loop from the + of the alternator around to the starter relay again removing a lot of stress on the bulkhead connector.
Final upgrade were headlight relays which again lowered the stress on the headlamp switch and of course the power that runs through the bulkhead (seeing a pattern?)
These three upgrades has eliminated any dimming of headlights, poor charging, and stress on the bulkhead. Highly recommended for anyone planning on driving their cars!
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
WJ is on the right track.
The path for the regulator IGN terminal which is also the voltage SENSE terminal is:
battery -- fuse link -- bulkhead connector -- ammeter circuit -- ignition switch connector -- through the switch -- back out the switch connector -- back out the bulkhead (on the dark blue "ign run" wire -- and to supply several loads, depending on the car
the ignition switch side of the ballast resistor
the alternator blue field wire
the regulator IGN terminal
electric choke if used
distributor retard, idle solenoid on some cars.
Turn the key to "run" with engine OFF. Put one lead of your meter on the battery positive or the starter relay battery stud. Connect your other lead to the blue alternator field lead
You are hoping for a very low reading, the lower the better. Over .3v (three tenths of one volt) means you have voltage drop in the above circuit path.
Your top suspects are the bulkhead connector, the ignition switch connector, the switch, and in rare cases, the ammeter and it's connections, and even more rare, but it HAPPENS is failure of the in harness welded splice.
Read this MAD article for the hows and whys of bulkhead connector problems.
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
Checking the regulator ground path is a little different For that you need the engine running, and some loads on the system, such as headlights. Stick one probe of your meter onto the battery neg. post, and the other probe directly onto the regulator mounting flange. Be sure to stab through any paint, chrome, rust. Once more, you are hoping for a very low reading. The lower the better, zero is perfect. If you show anything here, clean up the back of the regulator, the firewall, and use star washers under the bolts.
When these two voltage drops are fixed, IF the charging voltage is still too high..................
Check the voltage with the engine warm. The regulator changes voltage with temperature. It should be about 13.8--14.2, in no case below 13.5, and in no case above 14.5
If it's out of these limits and the voltage drop problem checks out OK, have the battery load tested, looking for weak cells, or substitute a known good battery.
Finally if that does not get the charging voltage into limits, buy a new quality regulator.
The path for the regulator IGN terminal which is also the voltage SENSE terminal is:
battery -- fuse link -- bulkhead connector -- ammeter circuit -- ignition switch connector -- through the switch -- back out the switch connector -- back out the bulkhead (on the dark blue "ign run" wire -- and to supply several loads, depending on the car
the ignition switch side of the ballast resistor
the alternator blue field wire
the regulator IGN terminal
electric choke if used
distributor retard, idle solenoid on some cars.
Turn the key to "run" with engine OFF. Put one lead of your meter on the battery positive or the starter relay battery stud. Connect your other lead to the blue alternator field lead
You are hoping for a very low reading, the lower the better. Over .3v (three tenths of one volt) means you have voltage drop in the above circuit path.
Your top suspects are the bulkhead connector, the ignition switch connector, the switch, and in rare cases, the ammeter and it's connections, and even more rare, but it HAPPENS is failure of the in harness welded splice.
Read this MAD article for the hows and whys of bulkhead connector problems.
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
Checking the regulator ground path is a little different For that you need the engine running, and some loads on the system, such as headlights. Stick one probe of your meter onto the battery neg. post, and the other probe directly onto the regulator mounting flange. Be sure to stab through any paint, chrome, rust. Once more, you are hoping for a very low reading. The lower the better, zero is perfect. If you show anything here, clean up the back of the regulator, the firewall, and use star washers under the bolts.
When these two voltage drops are fixed, IF the charging voltage is still too high..................
Check the voltage with the engine warm. The regulator changes voltage with temperature. It should be about 13.8--14.2, in no case below 13.5, and in no case above 14.5
If it's out of these limits and the voltage drop problem checks out OK, have the battery load tested, looking for weak cells, or substitute a known good battery.
Finally if that does not get the charging voltage into limits, buy a new quality regulator.
dart star
Disturbed Member
Wow a lot of info I can't thank you three enough I'm going to check
all that stuff when I'm let out of work hell thanks again
all that stuff when I'm let out of work hell thanks again
For the record I also use a relay to remote sense system voltage for the voltage regulator. Doing this eliminated over charging condition due to electric choke improper wiring method, and now provides very stable voltage. I also installed all new brass connections in wire harness, new bulkhead connector, replaced under hood wiring, and operate headlights and electric choke with relays as well.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
It would help if you told us what car you have. Unless you already have a later model with the funky triangular Vreg connectory, I would get an electronic regulator for the earlier models, since it would match your wiring harness, and is easier to connect if a custom harness. I bought one recently for $11 at rockauto. It is a thin shiny box with simple connectors that match the old mechanical Vreg. Make sure you ground one terminal of the alternator when using this Vreg, which is already done if you have the older round-back alternator.
In my 65 Dart, most all the wires thru the bulkhead now just turn on relays in an underhood box from a newer car. The 12 V IGN that I regulate is off a relay direct from the battery. wjajr is right that your problem is the drop thru the bulkhead and/or wiring harness, or ignition switch. Your Vreg is probably regulating the dV it sees correctly. We see that a lot. Also make sure the Vreg has a good ground to BATT-.
In my 65 Dart, most all the wires thru the bulkhead now just turn on relays in an underhood box from a newer car. The 12 V IGN that I regulate is off a relay direct from the battery. wjajr is right that your problem is the drop thru the bulkhead and/or wiring harness, or ignition switch. Your Vreg is probably regulating the dV it sees correctly. We see that a lot. Also make sure the Vreg has a good ground to BATT-.
dart star
Disturbed Member
It was the brand new gauge Unbelievable and the reason I say that
is because I had that problem with the Mopar ignition thanks
Again
is because I had that problem with the Mopar ignition thanks
Again
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
The whole story is kind of unclear. Anyway, I would check this "new gage" (that you just told us about) against a multimeter. It is unlikely the gage is way off. Not sure what "that problem with the Mopar ignition" was.
-
