Too DAMN hot already!!!

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JefftheComputerMan

JefftheComputerMan

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:banghead:
Ok got THIS IS A BRAND NEW RADIATOR: Champion brand
PART #CC64DT
ALUMINUM CORE WITH ALUMINUM TANKS
NO EPOXY. ALL SEEMS WELDED
DIMENSIONS:
CORE: 16 1/4 TALL X 18 3/4 WIDE
OVERALL: 21 5/8 TALL X 22 3/8 WIDE
UPPER HOSE CONN: 1 1/2-OFF CENTER
LOWER HOSE CONN: 1 1/2-DRIVER SIDE
THREE ROW CORE--2 1/4 THICK
TANK THICKNESS: 2 1/2

No leaks anymore, removed thermostat.
It runs over 200 and it's not even hot here yet!
fixes attempted:

Replaced radiator.
removed thermostat.
replaced distibutor with stock 318
(this dropped temp from 230-240 to 20-210)
replaced sparkplugs and wires
richened up fuel mix.
added some 20 degree cooler crap to the coolant

WTF is going on? is the cam "too hot" for daily driver?
Engine 318 (unknown origin (maybe 76 dodge ramcharger)), Comp Cams .480 lift, duration @ .050 231, lobe lift .3200, lobe separation 110.0 comp cams pn#20-232-4. Holley 600, Edelbrock Performer 318/360, looks like stock exhaust manifold, Stock Distributor.

I have good water flow in radiator, a small 14" fan reversed to push because of water pump clearance (no shroud).
It just seems to generate a helluva lot of heat. Is that timing or what?
Help!!!
 

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JefftheComputerMan said:
:banghead:
Ok got THIS IS A BRAND NEW RADIATOR: Champion brand
PART #CC64DT
ALUMINUM CORE WITH ALUMINUM TANKS
NO EPOXY. ALL SEEMS WELDED
DIMENSIONS:
CORE: 16 1/4 TALL X 18 3/4 WIDE
OVERALL: 21 5/8 TALL X 22 3/8 WIDE
UPPER HOSE CONN: 1 1/2-OFF CENTER
LOWER HOSE CONN: 1 1/2-DRIVER SIDE
THREE ROW CORE--2 1/4 THICK
TANK THICKNESS: 2 1/2

No leaks anymore, removed thermostat.
It runs over 200 and it's not even hot here yet!
fixes attempted:

Replaced radiator.
removed thermostat.
replaced distibutor with stock 318
(this dropped temp from 230-240 to 20-210)
replaced sparkplugs and wires
richened up fuel mix.
added some 20 degree cooler crap to the coolant

WTF is going on? is the cam "too hot" for daily driver?
Engine 318 (unknown origin (maybe 76 dodge ramcharger)), Comp Cams .480 lift, duration @ .050 231, lobe lift .3200, lobe separation 110.0 comp cams pn#20-232-4. Holley 600, Edelbrock Performer 318/360, looks like stock exhaust manifold, Stock Distributor.

I have good water flow in radiator, a small 14" fan reversed to push because of water pump clearance (no shroud).
It just seems to generate a helluva lot of heat. Is that timing or what?
Help!!!
Click to expand...

A couple of things jump out at me here. One, not having a T stat and the other the fan. The T stat will help keep the water in the radiator a little longer, slow down flow, to give it time to cool.

The other is the fan. For one it might be a little small, but I don't understand when you say it's reversed to push. Are you saying it's in front of the rad pushing through or is it behind pushing through?
 
Badsport said:
A couple of things jump out at me here. One, not having a T stat and the other the fan. The T stat will help keep the water in the radiator a little longer, slow down flow, to give it time to cool.

The other is the fan. For one it might be a little small, but I don't understand when you say it's reversed to push. Are you saying it's in front of the rad pushing through or is it behind pushing through?
Click to expand...

I have to agree here,if you remove the thermostat the water doesn't stop in the Radiator long enough to cool down to the proper operating temp ! As for the fan,it definitely sounds too small,and that's why they put spacers between the fan and the water pump !!
 
JefftheComputerMan said:
.................. a small 14" fan reversed to push because of water pump clearance (no shroud)..................
Click to expand...


You did>>>>>>????????????????....WHAT...????????????????<<<<<<<

Tell us more about this "reversed" fan, what is it, what make and model, how many amps (it IS electric, right??) and if possible, show a photo of it

TIMING You put a factory distributor "back in?" This sounds like you RETARDED the timing, maybe. That won't help.
 
67Dart273 said:
You did>>>>>>????????????????....WHAT...????????????????<<<<<<<

Tell us more about this "reversed" fan, what is it, what make and model, how many amps (it IS electric, right??) and if possible, show a photo of it.
Click to expand...


That's what I'm saying, somethin' don't sound quite right there.
 
I agree on running a thermostat !!!
If you are saying you have no clearance between the radiator and the water pump and put a electric fan in front as a pusher....14 maybe small ...
On aftermarket electric fans ,you can reverse it back and forth from pusher to puller by reversing the wires and most electric fans are set up for that but you have to flip the fan blade around also....
Do you have an electric fan in the front and did you flip the fan blade as well?
Welcome from a fellow Texan,
Martin
P,S, Where in Texas are you?
 
TXDart said:
................ but you have to flip the fan blade around also....
Click to expand...

X2, but the thing just might not be adequate to begin with. LOTS of junk 'lectric fans that couldn't cool a lawn mower
 
Put your thermostat (180 degrees) back in and get a real fan...... That's just a start.

Now for some questions:

When does it get hot?

At idle?

Does it get hot at a steady 50 mph out on the road?



I just got to say..... How many times have we seen this same thread? Someone gets a big radiator, yet ignores the rest of the cooling "SYSTEM" >>>>>>> It is a cooling system<<<<<<<. You need more than a fancy radiator to cool an engine.




Relax. Be clear with us. Take pics of the cooling system. Post the pics here.
 
67Dart273 said:
X2, but the thing just might not be adequate to begin with. LOTS of junk 'lectric fans that couldn't cool a lawn mower
Click to expand...
Agreed on some junk fans out there but if it is a factory type and not an universal then you can not flip the blade...We need more info!!!!

1968FormulaS340 said:
Put your thermostat (180 degrees) back in and get a real fan...... That's just a start.

Now for some questions:

When does it get hot?

At idle?

Does it get hot at a steady 50 mph out on the road?




Relax. Be clear with us. Take pics of the cooling system.
Click to expand...
Good question,you really do not need a fan on cruise over 35 mph...
 
Like everyone else has said, you have to have a thermostat. Also, need to know when the temps creep up. If it is at an idle or when sitting/crawling in traffic, then the fan is definitely part of your problem (lack of air flow). If it is at highway speeds, then you have too much coolant flow due to the lack of a thermostat (coolant not staying in radiator long enough).
 
That is such a poor photo, it's difficult to say, BUT

That doesn't look like much of a fan AND WORSE

Even though the photo is out of focus, it APPEARS that the blade curve is the WRONG DIRECTION

In other words it appears that the "cup" of the blade is facing forward, and that the blade would have to go clockwise to force air BACK through the radiator If what I'm seeing is correct, the fan blade must be turned around

IN other words you are using the blade in it's inefficient direction.



2jb9ssh.jpg
 
just to add.... you have no fan on the water pump,( which is OK if you have sufficient single or dual electric fans), no thermostat, and one tiny little electric fan (from what i can see) that appears to be pulling air towards the front of the car when it should be pushing air into the engine bay . it looks to me like there is room for a 7 or 8 blade factory fan without the spacer using short bolts and a fan shroud.
 
She is going to run hot with out a T-Stat... Royal Purple has an additive that helps your water dispense heat better now.
 
I don't agree that removing the thermostat could make it run hotter. That is strange non-engineering "chatter". Many similar old wives tales when it comes to anything dealing with energy or heat transfer. Just because they are repeated ...

I agree with 67Dart 273 that the fan blade appears designed to work best in one rotation direction, and you are turning it the other way. If you can flip it over, it will work better. If not, I suggest a fan from a Mercedes 300D or similar. They are designed to go in front of the rad and put out a lot of volume, plus cheap at the junkyard. I put one with its frame and horn on my 64 Valiant.

The main thing that will make it overheat is too lean of a mixture. My Newport boiled over all the time until I found the Holley Pro-jection fuel controller box was getting too hot in the sun and missing pulses. Too early spark timing can make it heat more, but mainly only if pinging badly. Too late spark timing can cause over-heating because your engine then runs too inefficient so burns more gas.
 
I agree with everyone about thermostat and fan, etc.
One thing that wasn't asked unless I missed it. When was the rest of the cooling system flushed?
We know the rad is new.
 
Thanks for all the info. The fan was a factory POS that was reverse wired to push. It did not do well. Got a 16" PUSHER fan and its running great now.

Without thermostat its running 170... SWEEEET... Thanks again for all your suggestions.

I replaced the distributor because a guy "recurved" it, don't exactly know what that did but with stock distrib is roaring down the road. I think the recurve stuff is old school racing tricks (IT REALLY KILLED THE GAS MILAGE). As gas hit $4 a gal today I need all I can get.

Thanks again!!!
 
Great. Good you posted the photos and did the legwork. We never would have figured it out otherwise. 67Dart273 scores another victory. You'd be amazed how many people beg for help and then stonewall, like we can solve their problem through the ether.
 
iam thinking that fan doesnt look big enough in these pictures, also are you sure the gauge is working? and maybe the water pump is bad
 
Well I hope others can find this info in the forums and quit asking dumb questions like me!
:sign3:
 
JefftheComputerMan said:
Thanks for all the info. The fan was a factory POS that was reverse wired to push. It did not do well. Got a 16" PUSHER fan and its running great now.

Without thermostat its running 170... SWEEEET... Thanks again for all your suggestions.

I replaced the distributor because a guy "recurved" it, don't exactly know what that did but with stock distrib is roaring down the road. I think the recurve stuff is old school racing tricks (IT REALLY KILLED THE GAS MILAGE). As gas hit $4 a gal today I need all I can get.

Thanks again!!!
Click to expand...

glad you got her worked out and thanks for posting back :D
 
BillGrissom said:
Great. Good you posted the photos and did the legwork. We never would have figured it out otherwise. 67Dart273 scores another victory. You'd be amazed how many people beg for help and then stonewall, like we can solve their problem through the ether.
Click to expand...

yes, xs2, it buggin when people gang together and post all kinds of help and we never hear back to find out what the problem was. you would be suprised how many people read these threads and are able to get answers and get things worked out.
 
!!! GREAT !!! Happy ya got er goin.

Wish we had your "too hot" problems. It hasn't been out of the forties until today here, got ALL the way up to 63 or so!!
 
Now put a thermostat back in it and get the engine temp back up to 180*. It will burn the fuel more efficiently.
 
I put a fan on from a 2000 or so Ford Contour. 2 speed fan and it is thin and it is thin in the right place, right where the snout of the water pump pulley is. It flat out moves air on high, almost hovers the car like a Harrier :thumblef: Ok maybe not that much air, but it moves a lot.
 
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