Top 5 A-body mods...

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1. Tail stripe. Becuse it just looks right.
2. SS springs, cuz i love the look of her *** up in the air.
3. Rebuilt front end so she dont ride like a POS and reset factory ride heigth.
4. Fixed engine...so i can do burn outs..
5. Automeeter mechanical gauges, so I know whats going on...


Soon it will be
440
trans and ratchet shift
rearend
cage
hood scoop.
:)
 
My car was a stripper slant 6 soooooo.

360 V8
4 speed
8&3/4
Cordoba 11&3/4" power disc brakes
Power steering.
 
1 - Passon 5 Speed
2 - 4:30 Gears
3 - 1.14 Torsion bars
4 - Fox adjustable shocks
5 - Four wheel disks
5A - Ported Edelbrocks and a roller cam!
 
So far,
225 - 318 swap
7-1/4 - 8-3/4 swap
Bbp swap so had bigger choice of wheels
Subframe connectors home made and welded in.
Column shift to floor shift with Hurst promatic2 shifter, hidden under a stock console. New custom console top plate with 2 cup holders
 
JoeSBP said:
No, not the first five steps, your top 5. Stuff thats out of the normal. It's pretty well established the proper steps of building a solid, safe, reliable, punchy A-body.
I'm talking about the things that every time you get in the car, you think, "so glad I did that".
Could be a stereo for some, recovering some tired seats, or mounting the same style dash compass you had in highschool, etc. The hydraulic hood/trunk lifts is a perfect example

on my '72 Valiant, she had 9" drums...so upgrading to BBP and discs was a no brainer. Can't worry about going, if you are worrying about stopping!
That said, I replaced the windshield washer system with a complete NOS system I bought local, right after I installed a fresh windshield. I used to get a big grin every time I mashed that foot pump and had a nice spray of Rain-X on a crystal clear windshield. Beaded water so well that I rarely, if ever, used the wipers. That was in Tacoma too. Another one was replacing the glove box liner, just so I could store the re-pop owners manual, and the mint ORIGINAL glove box trash bag I found under the back seat..
Replacing the front female portion of the seatbelts after driving for a year with a broke drivers belt you had to shake to get it engaged was pretty satisfying as well..

Sometimes it's those little things
Click to expand...
If that works for you,great. Would much rather be safe,than worry about the damn stereo.I wanna go fast reliable & safe.
 
JoeSBP said:
No, not the first five steps, your top 5. Stuff thats out of the normal. It's pretty well established the proper steps of building a solid, safe, reliable, punchy A-body.
I'm talking about the things that every time you get in the car, you think, "so glad I did that".
Could be a stereo for some, recovering some tired seats, or mounting the same style dash compass you had in highschool, etc. The hydraulic hood/trunk lifts is a perfect example

on my '72 Valiant, she had 9" drums...so upgrading to BBP and discs was a no brainer. Can't worry about going, if you are worrying about stopping!
That said, I replaced the windshield washer system with a complete NOS system I bought local, right after I installed a fresh windshield. I used to get a big grin every time I mashed that foot pump and had a nice spray of Rain-X on a crystal clear windshield. Beaded water so well that I rarely, if ever, used the wipers. That was in Tacoma too. Another one was replacing the glove box liner, just so I could store the re-pop owners manual, and the mint ORIGINAL glove box trash bag I found under the back seat..
Replacing the front female portion of the seatbelts after driving for a year with a broke drivers belt you had to shake to get it engaged was pretty satisfying as well..

Sometimes it's those little things
Click to expand...
In reference to your answer: I felt,like you " called me out".. As an ex street car guy,I took it wrong..
As for most "emotional ,vibrant" responses..
A B&M shifter swap ,over crappy a body crap.
N20 has it's place,done 250 plate hits,on Chevy Rats... In the future, maybe : hypereutectic pistons..
A really well set up Magnum 360 heads/camshaft/ screw in stud setup,with roller rockers,LA oiling on valve train,sucks ***..
Setting the chassis right,& safe.. Live with it..
 
Abodybomber said:
In reference to your answer: I felt,like you " called me out"...
Click to expand...

awe no man I didn't mean to call you out in any way. I agree, there is a very very well documented recipe for the A-body, standard common mods like BBP discs, 8-3/4, etc. I just wanted to start a thread where guys can post up things they have done here and there that they think might not warrant it's own thread. Basically walking down the row at a car show and noticing the little touches. After seeing the 4th or 5th Dart with disc brakes, you tend to stop noticing, instead you notice little things like the car's stance, the amount of effort the guy spent detailing the trunk, etc
 
833 O/D Cruise at 60 mph at 2000 rpm
A/C Gotta be as cool as your car
Rocky Mountain dash insert so gauges work
Power windows and locks
Dressed out trunk
Kick *** amps for plenty of rock + roll
Building custom console now.
 
I'll bring this back to life for some new people.
I've applied 2000 Ram exhaust manifolds and starter to my 360.

New dual exhaust to the rear bumper.

New bumper to bumper wiring.

Front BBP disc brakes & dual master cylinder.

Manual steering....I miss the power steering, but was too sensitive.
SOON will be new seatbelts to get rid of the old factory ones.
 
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change out auto for stick
front discs
subframe connectors
MAD deal ( oK so I left the amp gauge after cleaning
gauges for oil pressure and temp
rebuild front end
old school mags up front
radio delete ( don't need it)
OK so I kept the slant! ha and the 7 1/4 Ha
 
1. Disc Brake conversion (BBP).
2. V8 swap (from /6).
3. 8 3/4 swap (from 7 1/4)
4. Duel exhaust.
5. 4 speed conversion.
 
1. 11 3/4 discs on the front, 11 inch drums on the back.
2. frame connectors
3. 1.03" torsion bars
4. bigger sway bars, front and rear
5. 215/60/15" all the way around
6. Steer and Gear stage 2 P/S box. Rebuilt the front end, and of course a healthy 360!
To be done...4 spd back in 727 out. and fuel injection when the bank account lets me..
I put in new tubular upper control arms, big mistake. I went back to the stock uppers. I found a local guy that tuned the suspension perfectly.
 
as soon as you buy it:
1. dual M/C Disk brakes
2. electronic ignition
3. Mini starter
4. 4bbl induction
5. square back alternator/regulator

now for the fun stuff:
1. Turbocharger
2. EFI
3. EDIS ignition
4. 8 3/4 rear
5. 15" wheels
 
Robbie2734 said:
1. 11 3/4 discs on the front, 11 inch drums on the back.
2. frame connectors
3. 1.03" torsion bars
4. bigger sway bars, front and rear
5. 215/60/15" all the way around
6. Steer and Gear stage 2 P/S box. Rebuilt the front end, and of course a healthy 360!
To be done...4 spd back in 727 out. and fuel injection when the bank account lets me..
I put in new tubular upper control arms, big mistake. I went back to the stock uppers. I found a local guy that tuned the suspension perfectly.
Click to expand...

What did you dislike about the tubular uppers?

Cley
 
IMG_4864.jpg
Needed to plug a holes in firewall used stainless steel elevator buttons. #2 genIII Hemi swap. #3 power and heated seats. #4. Disc Brakes. #5 Blue tooth radio with hands free. #6. Passenger seat eject button.
 
Rebuild front and rear end, everything including torsion bars and new leaf springs.
Add 8.75 because I never can decide on the right gear ratio.
Change from auto to 4-speed.
Toss bench seat for factory buckets.
Sell the weak 318, auto and duel exhaust for what I paid for the car.
 
89on35s said:
What did you dislike about the tubular uppers?

Cley
Click to expand...
They transmit a ton of road noise through the car, I could never get the car to handle the way I wanted it to and it was 300.00 spent for no good return. If you want to motocross or road race and are changing the Kframe for a custom it might be ok. The stock control arms with Moog problem solvers and a good alignment is so much better. You're much better off using the money to bring the stock suspension up to snuff. But it does impress the crowd that doesn't know better...LOL I can bring my car up to 80mph out on Rt 78 and let go of the wheel, it tracks dead straight. Point the nose and the car is there. The best changes to the suspension , a GOOD steering box and bigger torsion bars, 1+" or bigger.
 
1. Disc Brakes.
2. 4 speed conversion
3. A/C
4. Front Sway Bar
5. Bumping the engine about 100 HP
 
No doubt about it, D.I.N. compatible rallye dash is number 1.
DeMonDIN 02.JPG

2. Rear lighting. A high mount brake lamp and added bulb sockets in the rear lamp fixtures.
3. Power steering and smaller steering wheel.
4. Modified the OEM automatic floor shifter ( no pic handy ).
5. Electrical upgrades, ignition, headlights, etc...
So creature comforts is my priority, followed by safety.
 
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1. 600+ HP 408
2. HDK front suspension
3. Wilwoods
4. Paint/body
5. Cage/5 point/racing seats.
 
First 5 things
1. front disc brakes
2. rebuild the front suspension
3. 8 3/4 rear with sure grip
4. Bucket seats
5. electronic ignition
 
The mini starter was the best mod.
But the things I've done that just improved the car:
Shocks! I didn't realize how bad they were until I replaced them.
Radial tires! Nothing in the world like having a bias ply tire come apart on you at 60 mph.
Paying an experienced professional to buff the paint. absolutely amazed at the difference it made.
Oh yeah, an FM converter hidden in my glove box. Hidden so my grand daughter doesn't mess with it. :)
 
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