Torsion vs. Coil Overs

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Darwin

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I'm working on a 66 Cuda. Torsion bar mounts in sub frame are rusted really bad, almost non-existant. I'm contemplating removing the torsion bars completely, welding up the sub frame and replacing the front shocks with coil overs. Can this be done without major modification to upper shock mount? Is there enough clearance between the shock and frame rail? Will I need to go to a tubular upper control arm?

Does it even make sense to go to a coil over set up or am I better off repairing the stock torsion mount.
 
Not looking to replace entire front suspension. Just wondering if its possible to replace stock snocks with coil overs.
 
yes it is,,but your saying you have rusty frame componets,im sure the tops of the frame rails in the front end area are rusty as well,,,collectiong road grime over the years,,if the factory uper shock mount is rusty and week,,i dont recomend coil overs in the factory shock mounts,,

i have a rust free car 66 b cuda,,and i use coil overs,,tublar uper A arms,,,factory lower arms,,and a mustang rack and pinion,,,

but you ned good sturdy metal to do all this,,,there is a place that advertises in mopar muscle that has rotted frame repair pieces,,,
 
any details on what it took to do this? lower control arm issues etc.??
 
The car was engineered from the factory for the entire weight of the front end to be supported at the torsion bar cross-member. The shock towers on a car with torsion bar front suspension aren't designed to carry the full weight of the front of the car, rather providing a solid point for the shocks to mount to. Converting to coil-over front suspension entails a full re-do of the K-member to one that has built-in upper spring mounts supported through the K-member itself.

In other words, throwing some coil-overs in where there used to be only shocks might work for a little while until you hit a pothole and your shock towers get a hole punched through them. Besides, the stock suspension can be built to handle extremely well.
 
the car will have a cage, tubes froom k member tied into the cage and upper shock mount....very similar to this picture

snout bar.jpg
 
You will need upper tubular control arms for clearance of the shock and coil overs of coarse, you can use the stock lowers You just need to remove the bump stop metal that is on the frame or the spring will rub on it and the bump stops need to be thinner.Some guy have left the stock shock towers but I would suggest bracing them.You can fab a bolt on the back of the LCA so it won't walk toward the rear of the car but some don't bother and have had no problems.

All these parts cab be bought for bill at RMS just give him a call and he will hook you up with the parts you need I think he said around 400-500 dollars

Here some pics of Duster Dave's old car (The stuff is from Magnumforce which is expensive I would on buy the billet end mount if your worried about changing the shock bushing after a few years they start to wear out)

magforce.jpg


Stock lower control arms
lcamod2.jpg


welded1.jpg


convrsn1.jpg


convrsn2.jpg


If your doing a cage I would run bars in the front tying into the shock tower and cage
 
Darwin, go to www.magnumforce.com. They have the coil over conversion
you are looking for. You will need the upper control arms they sell. Hope
this helps. Not a complete new K-frame, so in the scheme of things, not
that expensive.
 
Thanks Guys

I've reviewed the above options. The magnumforce kit looks really cool but its a bit pricey. I'm on a budget with this project so I think I'm going to go with the frame repair kit from autorust.
 

Call bill at RMS. He sells a kit to put coil overs on your stock suspension. Gonna have to brace the shock mounts though. They were never meant to hold the entire weight of the car. Like already stated make sure there are no rust issues in the front frame
 
The other issue you will need to deal with is the torsion bar keeps the lower control arm in place on the k-member if the rubber bushing fails and if you plan on using poly bushings there isn't anything to keep the lower control arm in place with out the torsion bar.
 
Sorry but I wouldn't trust that setup with any serious driving. That can't be more than a 7/16 bolt and the right pot-hole and bang, its broken off and your SOL looking for a place to go. If you are going to do it, do it right and not something that will get you or someone else hurt or killed.
 
If your car is as rusted out as I'm imagining, either go with a total aftermarket setup or find another car. At 60 MPH the ditch comes up faster than you think! It's not worth the chance!
 
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