Tow Bars 71 Duster 318

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Pawned

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I want to get a tow bar to keep in the truck of my 71 Duster, in case it should break down. Then I could call the wife and ask her to come get me in the car with the trailer hitch to tow me home.
Who has tried or done this before? Did you bolt the brackets on to the front bumper for full time attachment, or did you have anything different.

Thanx Ed
 
Any towbar small enough to carry around in the trunk can trash the bumper pretty badly due to thier design.
The bigger style are easier on the car, but huge and heavy.
You'd be better of calling a tow truck. :)

See I've thought about all this to, and realized that I would be living in the car till I got it off the road.
NO FRIGGIN WAY I'd leave it out somewhere.

My car is really reliable, but still makes ya think.
 
There are older types that have clips over the front bumper and 2 adjustable chains donw to the lower chains that hook onto the control arms. These work OK, but are really heavy, and I would not want one in my trunk; if you get into a frontal crash, I can almost gurantee it will come forward through the back seat heading to the front and into the back of your head.

I flat towed my 2nd race car all over the eastern US, but I installed some permanent hardended AL bars to the subframes, through the front valence and under the front bumper. The tow bar bolted on. But it was not pretty. And I have bolted brackets to the bumper.... but that puts some ugly brackets on the bumper. Maybe you could make something that looked like a pair of rubber bumper nerfs that attach to/through the bumpers and have some holes for a lighter bolt on tow bar.

Calling a rollback is the best idea.
 
Any towbar small enough to carry around in the trunk can trash the bumper pretty badly due to thier design.
The bigger style are easier on the car, but huge and heavy.
You'd be better of calling a tow truck. :)

I am looking at this bar from Harbor Freight http://tinyurl.com/p4z5so2

It is good to 5000 lbs and 71 Duster with a 340 weighs in a 3100 lbs. Mine has a 318, even lighter.
I am thinking about drilling 2 horizontal holes between each of the vertical inner sets of bolts holding on the bumper. I will put in a plug until I need it. Then I can bolt on the brackets as I am waiting.
I am also trying to think of some way to reinforce the bracket that hold on the bumper.
 
I would not believe any published spec of any kind on any import tool site. This includes not only compressor airflow, motor HP, torque ratings, strength ratings, winch line pull, or anything else

Can you fabricate? I'd guess not from your post

Maybe find a "car guy" who CAN and who is willing to help you

You MIGHT be able to use the HF bar as a starting point, modding the rear.

WHAT I'D DO if I just "had" to do this............

Have some sheet (flat plate) meybee 1/4" cut that you can drill and slide up between the front frame horns and bumper brackets. These do not need to come down "where you can see them" just drop down behind the bumper. Drill them of course to fit the frame horn, and drill one hole in each on the bottom edge which will fit the tow bar

Make "stronger" mating L shaped brackets which will form the ends of the tow bar to "reach up" and meet these brackets with, say, 5/8 bolts. Use whatever lock nuts, safety pins, etc, these will be the "up down" hinge point of the bar. Maybe use? 5/16? flat plate, or angle, etc. Use your head.

Now fab these L brackets as necessary to adapt to the HF bar, and add (weld) brackets near the bumper for a cross -- brace that bolts up

You can still fold the bar by unbolting one end of the cross brace

Don't forget you need LIGHTS. as in tow lights

One easy way to do this is to rustle up a spare kick panel connector for your rear harness. "In about a minute" you can unscrew the left kick panel, add your adapter harness in place of the dash harness, and run the temporary cable (which you have made) out the vent window and up to the tow vehicle. A couple of towels taped around the cable will protect the paint, etc, use your head

THIS WILL NOT work well, if you have the new "amber turnsignals" unless you get a 'converter' box for the hookup, or maybe your tow rig has this built in (My Ranger does)
 
Automatic or standard?
Tow dolly.
AAA is the answer, covers all your vehicles.
 
I have started cutting out the extra bracing that will add strength to the bumper and brackets. Once I get them the way I want them, I will weld everything together and paint it.
I will probably add another piece of metal over the bracket at the frame. I am just playing it by ear. I am in no rush.

The info on the car is in red below in the signature

BTW what is HF short for?
 
I have started cutting out the extra bracing that will add strength to the bumper and brackets. Once I get them the way I want them, I will weld everything together and paint it.
I will probably add another piece of metal over the bracket at the frame. I am just playing it by ear. I am in no rush.

The info on the car is in red below in the signature

BTW what is HF short for?

I gotta admit that I like Del's suggestion best due to the fact that it will not interfere with the bumper at all and would be good and strong sandwiched between the frame rail and bumper brackets, but if you are on a mission and have the skills, go for it.
It just seems a shame to alter the actual looks of the front end over it.
 
I have a Valley tow bar that looks similar to the HF one. The brackets that bolt to the towed car disappeared with my 69 Dart when it was stolen in 1994. I don't recall how I attached to the car, but probably the lower radiator support. I found that regular trailer spring hangers fit perfectly as brackets. I have had those on my C-body for years (photo, was working on strut bushing). I had my wife come get me with our 4 cyl minivan when an engine freeze plug fell out. 5 min hookup, string magnetic tow lights to trunk. No problem towing it home 15 miles with the 3500 lb minivan. If towing a long ways (>50 mi or 50 mph), remove the driveshaft, and stuff a plastic bag in the tranny exit hole. Might not be required for 65- cars since those trannys have a rear pump.

I did try towing both my 65 Dart and 64 Valiant with the tow bar, and both wouldn't tow. They wouldn't follow. The tires would **** to the side. Both had with the original worn bushings, before I rebuilt them with Moog offset bushings, so could be a "not enough caster" problem.
 

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I did try towing both my 65 Dart and 64 Valiant with the tow bar, and both wouldn't tow. They wouldn't follow. The tires would **** to the side. Both had with the original worn bushings, before I rebuilt them with Moog offset bushings, so could be a "not enough caster" problem.
Probably so...I flat-towed my '71 Opel Ascona rally car a few 10's of thousands of miles with no issues. My '62 Dart has the factory negative caster on it right now..... I call it poor man's power steering; it sorta likes to help me steer in the corners!
 
I am looking at this bar from Harbor Freight http://tinyurl.com/p4z5so2

It is good to 5000 lbs and 71 Duster with a 340 weighs in a 3100 lbs. Mine has a 318, even lighter.
I am thinking about drilling 2 horizontal holes between each of the vertical inner sets of bolts holding on the bumper. I will put in a plug until I need it. Then I can bolt on the brackets as I am waiting.
I am also trying to think of some way to reinforce the bracket that hold on the bumper.
Not as heavy at the ones I built but probably will work for a short tow and not too fast. I would strongly suggest adding a thick flat bar, maybe 2.5-3" wide, across the 2 main bars and bolted in with 2 bolts on each end and about 3/4 of the way back from the ball; you could bolt this on when attaching. The issue with these bars is the adjusting bolts at the front; they can slip and the car will move off to one side or the other; not good! The added bar will triangulate the main bars and keep them from moving.

It sounds like you are reinforcing the bymper mounts; good thing; I would not count on the bumper metal and bolts; the bolts are usually carriage types and may not be a graded bolt. Make something that reaches back into the subframe.
 
After much planning, I decided to place an additional bracket to attach the bumper to.
I have the brackets sandwiched together and I will need to adjust the outboard bracket to compensate for the new addition.

The bracket is about 3 times thicker than the original bracket. Once the bumper is drilled out I will place white plastic plugs in the holes until needed

I am only part way thru the mess. Thought I would get some feedback before I get much further
 

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I just now finished putting the car back together. Now I need to tear it apart, finish drilling the new holes and welding the brackets back together.
Then I will reassemble the car. hook up the tow bar and two it around a few miles.

Then I will have to tap into the wiring on the Taurus so I can plug in turning signals on Natalie,

BTW 67dart273, I can and do fabrication.
 
I'm lost.......are those going on the front of the bumper?
 
Good deal...that'll get some strength in there! Not being' picky, but seems like the same time could be spent on making the car more reliable...so it doesn't break down in the first place.
 
Good deal...that'll get some strength in there! Not being' picky, but seems like the same time could be spent on making the car more reliable...so it doesn't break down in the first place.


The car has been rebuilt totally in the past year. It is probably the most reliable car I have. I have not finished the paint.
I did this more for something to do rather than worrying about a breakdown. I may take the car on a trip to a show or something and my wife will not ride very far in the Duster.

But it was more for something to do.

Yes it is going on the front
 
The car has been rebuilt totally in the past year. It is probably the most reliable car I have.

I think it may have something to do with pride. If it does break down, I can get it home and fix it without relying on someone else to tow me home.
I really hate relying on someone else, I am nutty this way.

Bringing it home on the back of a wrecker means I failed at rebuilding the car.
Do you get the idea of what I mean. I am not putting in words properly.
 
I think it would probably be best to put the tow bar on the back of the car, because odds are your wife will break down way before your Duster and you can tow her home!!O:)
 
I wish I knew how to weld better. But I am a whole lot better than I was a couple months ago.
I took the bumper off as a unit but found that I needed a bunch of clamps and welding to get the holes aligned like they were on the car.

All that is left to do is to mount it and see if she will tow. I am leaving the ends of the brace on the car. I may need to bolt them on if the stability is a problem. I do not think it will be, but I will only throw the pieces out as they are too short for anything else
 

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This is a picture of Ari440's ride on Moparts, with a 71 Duster. These might be NMW tow tabs. NMW, way back in the day, sold engine stands, tow bars and tabs, freewheeling bolt on hubs so you did not have to pull the driveshaft, and other goodies. I think they went out of business a long time ago. Hope this helps...
 

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. NMW, way back in the day, sold engine stands, tow bars and tabs,...

I Googled "Mopar" 'n all I got were Novas an maros!!!! LOL

https://www.google.com/search?newwi...0j6.6.0....0...1c.1.49.img..6.0.0.i_WPwYDcbig

Safety chains? tail lights? Naw, I'm a Chivvy guy I do'need'at

greentow.jpg
 
I need to get the proper chains. I have no idea how much slack I should allow the chains to have.

I have the kids old swing set, I can use those chains :)
 
I finished...... Believe this or not, my insurance from JC Taylor just came in the mail. I see I paid $12 for TOWING AND ROADSIDE ASSISTANCE :eek:ops:.
On the other hand, I can still tow the car to out of town shows and whatever :sign5:
 
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