Trans (&engine) install ?'s (anyone near Sacramento willing to come by & help?)

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POPS6T6

POPS6T6

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So after way to much time the car is finally off the rotisserie and moved to the new house and Hooker Supercomp headers are installed and tied back (if I ever meet the guy who designed those and said "install is easy" I just might commit a felony assault). I had picked up a transmission and per the #'s 4329468 it is a Dodge Tr Conv 84-85 727 8-360 1 piece drive shaft A727, and it was already rebuilt so all I thought was it needed a coat of paint and I need a slip yoke for it, but after reading to much (I always tend to try to learn as much as I can and ends up confusing myself even more) I wonder if there is more that I should do before attaching the bell housing and torque converter to the flex plate so I can drop the motor and trans in as one piece?

1) By looking at these pictures is there something obvious I am missing? Just want to make sure all the necessary parts are there and would rather not drop the transmission again over something small and or obvious.
2) Do I need to trim those tabs above the rear of the pan (with yellow arrows) for header clearance? I read somewhere that on the truck transmissions you had to shave them back and I am not even sure if that's what they mean?
3) What are my starter options with Hooker Supercomp? I have read a lot on it, and just curious if there is one that you suggest. I read that it would need to be clockable?
4) Does anyone have a part # for the correct slip yoke? Or is this one the right one http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ied-sy7277290 ? I read that this is a 30 spline right?
5) And lastly, and most important of all, is there anyone near Rocklin/Sacramento California that might have some time to stop by and help a novice out? Just to look this over and make sure I am on the right track? I am willing to work a trade or pay or whatever it may be for the help!
 

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I live in S. Texas so even though I wouldn't mind coming over to help it's simply too far. But I do have a couple of words of advice. Try and hook up any type of mufflers to the headers simply to keep the noise down so you can hear the engine during break in. Many times open headers are so loud if you have a loose rocker or an engine knock you'll never hear it till it's too late. The other suggestion (strongly recommended) is to have the rear tires off the ground on some good jack stands when you start filling the trans with fluid. It's almost impossible to get the trans and converter without running the trans through the gears. The absolute best way to make sure that your trans lasts a long time is to make sure that it's completely full before you drive the car down the street. Also, if you can get or borrow a good carb off a good running engine (close to your engine size) you'll have a smoother break in without having to try to adjust the carb as you keep the RPMs up for cam break in.
GOOD LUCK!!
Treblig
 
Treblig,
I will definately keep that all in mind, when I get to that point. Thats what I love about this site, I learn something new every day.

And it's only about 2,000 miles, what's the problem?
 
POPS6T6 said:
Treblig,
I will definately keep that all in mind, when I get to that point. Thats what I love about this site, I learn something new every day.

And it's only about 2,000 miles, what's the problem?
Click to expand...

I have a 2004R overdrive in my '69 Barracuda...top speed at 6000 RPM is 180 MPH so, 11 hours one way really isn't that bad but I surely couldn't afford the speeding tickets!!!!LOL

treblig
 
Treblig said:
I have a 2004R overdrive in my '69 Barracuda...top speed at 6000 RPM is 180 MPH so, 11 hours one way really isn't that bad but I surely couldn't afford the speeding tickets!!!!LOL

treblig
Click to expand...

But imagine the stories to be told....To the judge('s)...
 
in pic #3 the tabs with arrows are mounting points for a repair stand to hold the trans. the other point is front edge of the trans at the top. holding the trans upside down. as shown in all of my factory service manuals.
 
Fly me out there :D
By the end of a day we'll have the drivetrain in and ready if you have all the parts.
 
moe7404 said:
in pic #3 the tabs with arrows are mounting points for a repair stand to hold the trans. the other point is front edge of the trans at the top. holding the trans upside down. as shown in all of my factory service manuals.
Click to expand...

Ahhh that would make sense...Thank you for that info..
 
Not sure what you read about truck transmissions needing trimmed but you don't want to cut those off. Their there for mounting it to a work station. That output yoke in your link is for the large 7290 U-joint. Nearly all A-body's used the small 7260 U-joints but since I have no idea what driveshaft you actually have I can't say if that's the right yoke or not, other than 30 spines is correct. You need to measure the I.D. of the u-joint yoke on the driveshaft to verify what you need. If the I.D. measures 2-1/8" it's the small 7260 u-joint. If it measures 2-5/8" it's the larger 7290 u-joint. Here's a link to the small u-joint yoke in case you need it. I also attached a picture showing what I'm talking about measuring..

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ied-sy-727-7260

Next question is what engine are you running and what torque converter are you using? If your using the stock torque converter that came with that transmission it'll only work on a 360 LA engine, unless it's been modified. 360 engines were externally balanced by welding a piece of steel onto the torque converter. If that's what you have and you try to use it with any other engine it will be out of balance and vibrate like crazy eventually destroying the engine and possibly the trans.

Not sure on the differences between the super comps and the standard Hooker competition headers but I had the standard comps on my car until recently and when I put it together I used the mini starter. It was hard enough to get in and out. Hate to think how hard a stock starter would be to get in there. Mine didn't require the indexable starter. Once in it cleared things fine.
 

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Fishy68,
Thank you again! I am running a 360, .30 over, cam, KB pistons, Edelebrock RPM intake, roller rockers... It is a Hughes 2500 stall and I do have a B&M flexplate for it.

I will measure and find out as that was one issue I was having determining the yoke as I didn't know what to measure. Also I have a driveshaft or two here, one that was in the car but not sure if it was ever hooked up to the 8 3/4 rear or not. I need to measure it also to see if the joints are the same size as the 8 3/4 or if I am going to need to have a driveshaft built. Those tabs I realize I don't trim, wasn't sure what people were talking about with the truck housing but I guess the only way for me to make sure if it is all going to fit is to drop it in and see! Hoping to do so this weekend..

I did find a small bracket that was labeled "Transmission" in my parts bin, and I believe it is the kickdown linkage bracket. Always something for sure!
 
I used to run the Hooker super comp 5116 headers. You have to drop the center link to get them in as one pipe goes around it.

I would have the left header loose hanging in the engine compartment when I dropped the engine in.

Or go from underneath after the engine is installed, but you will have to lift it off of the mounts to get the header wiggled into position.

You can then run the standard starter, but I would get it in position, and get the electrical connections tight and the starter in position before tightening the header all the way, (sometimes you have to juggle the header and starter to get everything in position....
 
In case it wasn't mentioned already, the tab on the drivers side of the trans is where the linkage bracket for column shifter attaches.
 
I have a floor shifter (console).. Does anyone have a picture of what brackets need to be on the transmission to link that? I found this bracket but not sure if it is right?
 

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Ok.. so it has been a few months, had some things come up and finally getting back to the car. Good news is, I have the engine and headers in, the bad news is that they are not lining up? What is weird is that the drivers side is no problem at all? The passenger side is giving me fits. The headers are hitting the transmission pan, and also the collector is hitting the torsion bar close to where the torsion bar is inserted into the crossmember. I tried to mark the headers in the pics with tape to show all the different places where these are hitting. So it leads me to a few questions. I have (from what I can tell when compared to another set) some rather thick isolator blocks, would that be causing my engine to sit to high? Also the transmission seems to be hitting the hump where the transmission crossmember support is? Currently I have power steering in the car, my thought was since I recently acquired a manual steering box, and the motor and headers were in, and there wasn't any issue on drivers side that I would get the headers mocked up and see what issues I had and then switch to manual steering if needed. But the issues are all on the passenger side, is it possible the isolator blocks are causing the issues? Sorry, that is one thing I did not get a picture of yet. Will do tonight when I get home.

1rst picture shows looking down through the engine compartment on passenger side. You can see where headers are hitting transmission pan. It is preventing me from getting headers to mount up to heads.

2nd and 3rd pic show where the collector is hitting against the torsion bar.

4th pic is a view from below showing headers hitting transmission pan.

What the heck am I doing wrong here? Do I need to remove torsion bar? Are isolator blocks (I think that is what they are called, the rubber blocks between motor mounts and k-member) the problem? Do I need those? Without those my engine would be 1/2 lower and moved forward about 1". And that might be the clearance I need? This thing is supposed to go out for paint later this month, but I don't want to be putting engine in and out after paint.. Any suggestions??
 

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The mounts you have installed look real thick like truck mounts. Car mounts are thinner like the one your holding. Installing them will lower the engine some and may solve your problem. I'd give it a shot if it were me
 
fishy68 said:
The mounts you have installed look real thick like truck mounts. Car mounts are thinner like the one your holding. Installing them will lower the engine some and may solve your problem. I'd give it a shot if it were me
Click to expand...

I agree
 
POPS6T6 said:
I have a floor shifter (console).. Does anyone have a picture of what brackets need to be on the transmission to link that? I found this bracket but not sure if it is right?
Click to expand...


I don't know if that bracket is correct but you need a trans tail housing with the bosses for the bolts, on the bottom. You can see them below just forward of the rear mount pad

129_0608_10_z%2Bautomatic_transmission%2Btorqueflite_727.jpg
 
I was going to go with a lokar floor mounted shifter on it. Cheaper than replacing the tail housing I would think?
 
POPS6T6 said:
I was going to go with a lokar floor mounted shifter on it. Cheaper than replacing the tail housing I would think?
Click to expand...

It's up to you but you should be able to pick up the correct extension housing cheaper than a shifter I'd think. If I had a spare I'd let it go for $35. You might want to post a want ad in the want ad section
 
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