Trans leaking from bell housing

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ninesixxjr

ninesixxjr

1969 Dodge Dart Western Sport Special
Joined
Jun 7, 2021
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Location
california
Just fire up a fresh new build and was about to take it on its first drive when I noticed the trans started dripping as I pulled away. Got under it and it seemed it was leaking from the pump seal. Removed the trans and replaced it only for it to leak again. What I did notice was the seal had some wear on it, what could it be? It’s a freshly rebuilt trans and a brand new torque converter.

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Did you replace the front bushing? What is the condition of the converter seal area? Could the oil be coming from the vent?
 
Front pump bushing failed and took out the seal. What's the converter snout look like?
 
ninesixxjr said:
Just fire up a fresh new build and was about to take it on its first drive when I noticed the trans started dripping as I pulled away. Got under it and it seemed it was leaking from the pump seal. Removed the trans and replaced it only for it to leak again. What I did notice was the seal had some wear on it, what could it be? It’s a freshly rebuilt trans and a brand new torque converter.

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Gotta pull it again to replace the bushing (and another seal) You can pull the pump cover yourself and take it in to a shop to have a new one installed if you don’t have access to a bushing driver.
 
Torque converters leak also leaky welds and cracks etc. Used to fit a rubber cap over the converter snout , pump compressed air into it and spray with soapy water look for the bubbles...do this of course after your convinced that it isn't the seal, probably after the third seal replacement I would think...
 
The only time my transmission leaked, and it leaked from that area, it was overfull. I pulled the pan and found the stick was not the correct. I remarked the full line and never had a leak again
 
Murray said:
Did you replace the front bushing? What is the condition of the converter seal area? Could the oil be coming from the vent?
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Oils not coming from the vent and I didn’t replace the front bushing because it looked fine.
 
Dartswinger70 said:
Torque converters leak also leaky welds and cracks etc. Used to fit a rubber cap over the converter snout , pump compressed air into it and spray with soapy water look for the bubbles...do this of course after your convinced that it isn't the seal, probably after the third seal replacement I would think...
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Good idea going to try this when I pull it today
 
roccodart440 said:
The only time my transmission leaked, and it leaked from that area, it was overfull. I pulled the pan and found the stick was not the correct. I remarked the full line and never had a leak again
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I would be surprised if it’s overfull. After I filled the trans and converter the first time and discovered the leak, I drained the pan and only put 1 quart back in it to start. No leak. as I put another half a quart in it, it seemed fine till I took it for a drive again. Maybe because it was warming up?
 
Your seal is phically worn on the front. It has a lip that sits on the front of the pump. I’ve not seen that. Try to find a seal that goes on flush with the face of the pump.

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When I pulled my trans to replace the front seal I also replaced all the other external seals just as a precaution, after all It's a 1970 and the only other thing I know that's been done to it is a shift kit.
 
Welp went to pull out the seal and the bushing just spun out, now to figure out how to remove the transmission pump to tap a new bushing in there

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First pull in and out on the input shaft to get some idea of how much end play you have in case you might want to add shims. Remove the front band adjuster completely. Remove the ten valve body bolts and turn the output shaft until the park rod can pull out. Remove the pump bolts, spray some WD40 around it, then gently pry between the lugs that are between the front drum and the sun gear shell. Or, screw a couple 3/8 bolts (tailshaft housing bolts) into the two threaded pump holes, and pry against the inside of the bell with something like some fairly large channelocks. A pry bar, or a tiny hammer; anything with a 90 degree bend in it. Easy to check the clutches and band now. Some half inch bolts to take the pump apart...nothing to it. Stay tuned for re-assembly!
 
You can also tighten the front band to hold the drum to keep the guts in place, check hardware stores for as long as you can find 3/8-16 bolts (8” length shown) some washers, and use two of the biggest sockets you have (1-1/4” impact shown) and assemble as shown. Thread into the threaded pump holes (9 and 3) and violà! Instant slide hammers. One might work alternating but with two it’s as cinch. Helps if you have big sockets already on hand. Rapid hammering and the cover will pop out.

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12many said:
You can also tighten the front band to hold the drum to keep the guts in place, check hardware stores for as long as you can find 3/8-16 bolts (8” length shown) some washers, and use two of the biggest sockets you have (1-1/4” impact shown) and assemble as shown. Thread into the threaded pump holes (9 and 3) and violà! Instant slide hammers. One might work alternating but with two it’s as cinch. Helps if you have big sockets already on hand. Rapid hammering and the cover will pop out.

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awesome idea, was going to try and weld a tool together but this sounds much easier. going to give it a try tomorrow.
 
CudaFactHackJob said:
First pull in and out on the input shaft to get some idea of how much end play you have in case you might want to add shims. Remove the front band adjuster completely. Remove the ten valve body bolts and turn the output shaft until the park rod can pull out. Remove the pump bolts, spray some WD40 around it, then gently pry between the lugs that are between the front drum and the sun gear shell. Or, screw a couple 3/8 bolts (tailshaft housing bolts) into the two threaded pump holes, and pry against the inside of the bell with something like some fairly large channelocks. A pry bar, or a tiny hammer; anything with a 90 degree bend in it. Easy to check the clutches and band now. Some half inch bolts to take the pump apart...nothing to it. Stay tuned for re-assembly!
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can i not just pull it out from the pump bolts in the front like @12many suggested? or do i really have to start taking the trans apart. Im just trying to replace the bushing.
 
Post a picture or two of the torque converter hub. You said it was a new converter and I am wondering if the weld that secures the hub to the converter body is sticking out too far toward the transmission causing damage to the seal and bushing. Just making sure before you get it back together again. Those bushings and seals typically do not fail without a reason. That is why @CudaFactHackJob suggested checking input shaft end play before pulling the pump out. Do not skip this step.
 
Dartswinger70 said:
Ah...wrong seal...OP you could always throw a 4 speed in it...:)
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The seal is likely correct. There is two different styles available for these, depending on brand used. National Seal has one that looks like that and comes in some of the seal kits and it works just as well as the older style.
 
When there isn't enough time to do it right, there's always enough time to do it twice. Why go to all that trouble just to pull the pump? You don't need any special tools whatsoever. People go nuts. Just take a couple of the tail housing bolts and then a large channel locks. Adjust them all the way open and hook the angled jaw under the bolt head. Nothing to it. A lil smack on the handle and poof.
 
Well, got the new bushing in there along with a new seal and she works perfect, no leaks and it shifts nice. Thanks for all the help.
 
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