Trans line ideas

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daredevil

daredevil

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Looking for clean line install ideas for a trans cOoler. Currently lines are connected to the radiator but I want to use a stand alone cooler that has hose barb connections. Pics are welcome.
 
I know this isn't an A body but here's what I did in my Jeep. I hard lined it all. I mean, if you're gonna use hose barbs and any hose at all, what's the sense in using hard lines?

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Currently plumbing one in my Dart, with a plate-type cooler like StrokerScamp's, but smaller. My cooler has 5/16" tube stubs, so must use at least short hose, but will mostly run 5/16" steel tube. My factory tubes were cut in the middle w/ short pieces of rubber hose (why?), so I am running all new tubes (couldn't find pre-made for 65).

I put one in my Newport years ago, but a smaller tube & fin type. That also had just barbed fittings, so had to use a little hose. I bypassed the radiator cooler there and I found the return tube (727 rear fitting) runs cool (~120 F, can hold my fingers on it). Therefore, I don't seem to need the radiator cooler. I got another plate-type cooler, which is bigger and better, so will switch to that soon. Both were ~$10 at a swap meet.

Re using rubber hoses. Smart to eliminate as much as possible. However, my 2 Mopar minivans use rubber all the way from the tranny to radiator. Had a few leaks, but because the factory used cheap spring clamps. I think the return on Torqueflites dumps into the pan, so shouldn't be much back-pressure on the cooler and hoses. Next time I have one open, I'll probe w/ a wire to verify.

Re using or bypassing the radiator water-to-oil cooler, most manufacturers recommend using. However, that risks getting trans oil in the radiator, or worse, water in the tranny. Some cars, like my Mercedes, have a separate trans radiator. The factory probably did the radiator cooler because cheaper. I am still deciding for my Dart.
 
I have seen these transmission coolers put between the bed and a cab of a truck with no fan at all and did fine working in the hot fields in Florida at low speeds and run all day, and drive 40 miles to plant City Florida loaded down with about 200 flats of strawberries and did it well over 5 years with out anyproblem, there must be some cool air there or something Pete.
How cool do we need to keep our transmission fluid ?? :scratch:Makes me wonder :-k, we know it hits 180 degree or higher radiator to get cooled, does any tech have info on this ?
 
The guys at the speed shop put a B & M unit on mine with AN fittings
 

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Heres the cooler i,m gonna use. I,m gonna mount it in front of the radiator. Good stuff from ma.I pirated it from a 4x4 ramcharger. Its 24x10 and about an inch thick.I wonder if someone makes barb adapters that would have the male end to screw into the trans lines radiator fittings and then i would use a nice braided line to the cooler.
 

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Is that thing aluminum? Looks like it. Somebody good with a welder could whack those barb ends off and weld you some hard line fittins on there in 10 minutes. I said whack.
 
On my Barracuda. One flat stock added. Other side bolted to rad support. Grommets for all lines going through radiator support. Simple, sturdy.
 

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memike said:
I have seen these transmission coolers put between the bed and a cab of a truck with no fan at all and did fine working in the hot fields in Florida at low speeds and run all day, and drive 40 miles to plant City Florida loaded down with about 200 flats of strawberries and did it well over 5 years with out anyproblem, there must be some cool air there or something Pete.
How cool do we need to keep our transmission fluid ?? :scratch:Makes me wonder :-k, we know it hits 180 degree or higher radiator to get cooled, does any tech have info on this ?
Click to expand...
My understanding is the transmission oil should stay in the 160-200 degree range. If you install a stand alone cooler and bypass the one in the radiator, it may run too cool.
 
I may be trying to do this for all the wrong reasons. I was trying to get my radiator temps to drop some.Figured if I took the converter heat out of it that it may help. Am I going about this wrong? And the car will never see weather less than 50*. Do you think it will be too cold.
 
My trans guy laughed about these trans running too cool, said it can't be done. Won't hurt a thing. I use my ride in 30 degree weather, just have a trans cool and by pass the rad. Every high stall converter needs a cooler and the high stall creates more heat
 
oil running too cool will kill stall in the converter.

If you have a converter that runs the way you want it at 190* and run 120* fluid through it, it will not stall or react the same.
 
crackedback said:
oil running too cool will kill stall in the converter.

If you have a converter that runs the way you want it at 190* and run 120* fluid through it, it will not stall or react the same.
Click to expand...

Wow thats deep, I am running a lot of stall for the street though.
 
With my 2800-3200 stall and separate cooler my tranny temp is 155 degrees
cruising and it goes to 170-180 in stop and go in 95-100 degree weather.
 
Pete, On my gold GTS I installed a B&M cooler with pipe thread ends. I mounted it similar to how Tony and autoxcuda did theirs. I bought hard lines from Fine Lines and had hydraulic hoses made up to run from the hard lines (#5 fittings) to the cooler useing AN fittings screwed into the cooler.
 
I may hard pipe if and cut the raised ends off and use brass compression couplings. Sucks my cooler isnt threaded. Really need to use what i have as moneys tight. I really like some of these ideas though.Its kick starting the old noggin.
 
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