Transmission Cooler Line Repair

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dodgedart1968

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My '68 Dart transmission cooler line has a repair consisting of a two-inch section of fuel hose and two hose clamps. Is this a suitable repair?
 
It’s more or less a get me home repair, but hell, I’ve done the same on my 77 chevy k20 10 years ago and it’s still going leak free. Lol. Change it if ya want, or if it bugs ya that much.
 
Done it multiple time and ran that way for years without an issue, check for seepage once in a while.
 
Its no different than splicing in a cooler with rubber hose. Most coolers just have barbed fittings. The rubber will soften over time so you would want to replace it every year or two.
 
Its no different than splicing in a cooler with rubber hose. Most coolers just have barbed fittings. The rubber will soften over time so you would want to replace it every year or two.
Yes, it is different. The hose you get with transmission cooler kits is the same as power steering return hose. That's a totally different compound than fuel hose. Fuel hose will swell and fail over time. It's not made for oil.
 
IMHO, get some metal lubing the same size and to unions and make it right as repairs go

Any idea what happened in the 2 inches?

Heck you might find that the line is just cut and one union would fix it.

Or

You might find that it is rusted and the hose was a band-aid. Meaning it might be time to replace the lines
 
Here is the forensic analysis:

My car has impact damage to the radiator support. The impact was evidently from the rear. It appears that the car struck something while being driven fast in reverse. The radiator core must have been torn from the radiator frame, and the cooler line must have ruptured.

The radiator core is mounted the the radiator frame with fiberglass. I have removed the radiator for proper repair and cleaning.

The transmission cooler line has minimal corrosion, but appears to have been torn apart and repaired as noted above.

I can reassemble with a bit of transmission cooler hose, or make a new cooler line.

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Looks like the cooler lines are getting kinda rusty.
You might consider new prebent.
1968-69 Dodge A-Body Dart V8 5/16

Looks like you need to straighten the lower core support. Floor jack, a little hammer and dolly work, weld, grind, paint, that kinda stuff .
 
Looks like the cooler lines are getting kinda rusty.
You might consider new prebent.
1968-69 Dodge A-Body Dart V8 5/16

Looks like you need to straighten the lower core support. Floor jack, a little hammer and dolly work, weld, grind, paint, that kinda stuff .


The image is misleading. The lines have only mild surface rust.

In regard to the support, I was going to wait for a trip to the weld shop and have it done. I can't see any way to do it with a floor jack. I might try to hook it to the underside of the car and pull it straight with a come-along winch.
 
That core support really needs to be replaced.
 
Why would straighten and weld not suffice?
It might for some, but it wouldn't for me. It's a pretty structural piece. Remember, these cars are unibody construction. That radiator support is also a FRAME CROSS MEMBER. The bottom of it has been compromised severely. It will never be as strong as it was. It's not a very difficult job to do. A lot of spot welds to drill out, but that's the toughest thing. Once it's out of the way, the rest can be straightened easily and a new one.....well.....most likely a good used one reinstalled.

That's how "I" would fix it.
 
BTW many oems use a hose between hard lines and the trans cooler etc. Engine and trans moves but rad does not.
 
BTW many oems use a hose between hard lines and the trans cooler etc. Engine and trans moves but rad does not.
Yup lots of later Mopars do. The difference is two fold, though. One, the rubber hose is the correct type that can handle oil and two, the hose is permanently crimped onto the hard line in a similar fashion to power steering pressure hose.
 
That is a perfectly suitable repair. The mistake folks make is to cut the steel line leaving sharp edges that will eventually cut thru the hose.
 
That is a perfectly suitable repair. The mistake folks make is to cut the steel line leaving sharp edges that will eventually cut thru the hose.
Yup. I at least put a simple barb on the end and file the rough edges off. The key is not using fuel hose. lol
 
Yeah that repair can work for a long time, but! Like RRR said you gotta use the right hose. Rubber fuel line hose will deteriorate inside, sending bits and pieces to your transmission and weakening the interior wall until it bursts.
 
Depends if the valve body has been changed or modified. If it has more line pressure, the cooler line pressure might be higher, and the rubber hose and clamps might not handle it.
 
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