Transmission question

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Jarred.73dart

Jarred.73dart

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Hey everyone,

Just recently bought a 73 dart swinger and I need to replace the transmission on it. I know it might be a dumb question but I'm brand new to the mopar game and I was wondering what transmission I can put in my dart that will fall right into place. (And for as cheap as possible) I'm in so cal so the mechanics out here charge way too much to rebuild it, so I've decide to buy new instead. My question is what options do I have and what other parts I might need. Will I have to swap out my torque converter as well? And will it fit? I have a 318 in the car but not sure what trans is currently in it. Any advice helps.
 
Jarred.73dart said:
Hey everyone,

Just recently bought a 73 dart swinger and I need to replace the transmission on it. I know it might be a dumb question but I'm brand new to the mopar game and I was wondering what transmission I can put in my dart that will fall right into place. (And for as cheap as possible) I'm in so cal so the mechanics out here charge way too much to rebuild it, so I've decide to buy new instead. My question is what options do I have and what other parts I might need. Will I have to swap out my torque converter as well? And will it fit? I have a 318 in the car but not sure what trans is currently in it. Any advice helps.
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The transmission is most likely a 904 (as opposed to a 727). Any V8 non-lockup 904 from any year should work. As far as the torque converter goes...if the tranny needs replacing it's probably a good bet that the converter needs replacing as well. It's possible to just get the converter flushed but unless it's opened up and inspected you'll never know for sure if it's good or how much longer it will last.
 
You want a 69 and later. 68 and earlier have a one pin nuetral safety switch which wont work with your wiring harness. The valve body in the trans is different so you cannot just swap out the switch.

You may have a 727 torqueflite but most likely have a 904 torqueflite. If you look at the trans pan, the 727 has kick out in the pan where the dipstick tube goes. 904 does not.

The 727 is much larger, longer and heavier. You should be able to find a 904 for reasonably cheap. Whatever you put in it, bear in mind that the bellhousing pattern that bolts to the engine is different for slant six, small block and big block.

Honestly you should be able to find someone in socal, even (or preferably a hobbyist) who can rebuild it for a reasonable price. If the trans has failed change the torque converter as well and flush the cooler.
 
Last edited:
dart_68 said:
The transmission is most likely a 904 (as opposed to a 727). Any V8 non-lockup 904 from any year should work. .
Click to expand...

Not exactly. Engine/ converter hub went from "smaller" to "larger" in about? 68?
 
dart_68 said:
The transmission is most likely a 904 (as opposed to a 727). Any V8 non-lockup 904 from any year should work. As far as the torque converter goes...if the tranny needs replacing it's probably a good bet that the converter needs replacing as well. It's possible to just get the converter flushed but unless it's opened up and inspected you'll never know for sure if it's good or how much longer it will last.
Click to expand...
Thank
d55dave said:
You want a 69 and later. 68 and earlier have a one pin nuetral safety switch which wont work with your wiring harness. The valve body in the trans is different so you cannot just swap out the switch.

You may have a 727 torqueflite but most likely have a 904 torqueflite. If you look at the trans pan, the 727 has kick out in the pan where the dipstick tube goes. 904 does not.

The 727 is much larger, longer and heavier. You should be able to find a 904 for reasonably cheap. Whatever you put in it, bear in mind that the bellhousing pattern that bolts to the engine is different for slant six, small block and big block.

Honestly you should be able to find someone in socal, even (or preferably a hobbyist) who can rebuild it for a reasonable price. If the trans has failed change the torque converter as well and flush the cooler.
Click to expand...
thanks for the advice! What is a "reasonable" price for a rebuild.
 
Also a pre'67 904 will have an 18 spline input shaft. After '67 it was changed to a 27 spline.
 
If you are old enough to make babies and have experience in that task, then you can rebuild that trans yourself. It's only scary the first time, and once you get 'er done, you'll be wondering why you were ever scared to open her up.
Once the pan is off, you can make a decision about the TC based on what you find in the pan.
Or if you are really nervous, you can take it down, clean it, strip it, replace what needs be, and then hire that high-priced shop to slam it together for you. BadaBOOM!
 
I rebuilt my first 727 when i was about 19. Done a few since then. If you decide to tackle it get a decent manual to assist you through the process.

A description of whats going on with the transmission may help also. I wouldnt want to be replacing a transmission over a band adjustment.....
 
Tooljunkie said:
I rebuilt my first 727 when i was about 19. Done a few since then. If you decide to tackle it get a decent manual to assist you through the process.

A description of whats going on with the transmission may help also. I wouldnt want to be replacing a transmission over a band adjustment.....
Click to expand...
 
I have rebuilt a number of 727's over the years. Follow the FSM carefully and it will turn out well. Be aware that cleanliness is a necessity but achievable in a garage. I have found trans shops and machine shops that will replace bushings if needed for $50, so that is not an issue. For a stock type engine, standard clutches are fine. I like Alto Red and Kone Steels for performance applications. Get a name brand torque converter of the right stall speed. 2500 for mild performance works as 2200 was stock for a 340.
make your own tools from bar stock and angle irons. You need something to pull the pump housing out of the case. I use Unistrut and threaded rod to screw into the pump threaded holes. Comes out easy.
Clamps or bar stock can be used to compress clutch spring for replacing clutches and steels. Use a credit card or thin plastic to guide seals into place. Check operation with air when done.
Be careful with seals as front seal leaks are a pain.
But it will only cost $200-300 for parts from a good supplier (check internet, there are many) to rebuild the trans.
Put in a shift kit if you want to chirp the tires in second gear and have firm and crisp shifts.
Good Luck,
Bob
 
While we are on this subject, here is some great info on transmissions and "other stuff"

A 19 part YouTube video on tearing down a 727.....



ABSOLUTELY spend the money and buy the Munroe book......

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hpb-hp1399

Go to MyMopar and download a / some service manuals. They also have "just" the transmission section posted there....

MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - MyMopar Tools/Reference

If you want to be a pirate, I found a Russian site which you can dump into Google translate and download the ATSG manuals, which are great as far as they go

See this thread.........

Free service manuals

Read post 41
 
Thanks for the insight guys, after doing some research and seeing what you guys have to say in thinking about rebuilding the thing myself. The trans works pretty well and seems to shift good, but reverse works intermittently. Is this something that is easy for a first timer rebuild or should I get someone who knows what their doing?
 
PM me...I have the ATSG manual that I can email you ....and I have the ATSG video that shows how to tear apart and rebuild a 727....IT IS a training video...the guy speaks perfect english and the video is clear and professionally done...not a bunch of hacks like the videos on youtube....
 
Reverse works intermittently, as in will back up on flat ground with some coaxing? Or its good one day, not so the next? The offer of manual and video are awesome, if you can pull it, fixing it isnt much harder. Toughest part is getting torque convertor to spline up.
 
Tooljunkie said:
Reverse works intermittently, as in will back up on flat ground with some coaxing? Or its good one day, not so the next? The offer of manual and video are awesome, if you can pull it, fixing it isnt much harder. Toughest part is getting torque convertor to spline up.
Click to expand...
Works as in I'll put her in reverse and let my foot off the brake and it won't move at all. (on flat ground) I give it just a little bit of gas and it will jerk into gear. Other times it will work fine
 
Maybe a dumb question,but have you checked the fluid level hot and in Neutral with the park brake set? Also what is your rpm.
When reverse is selected, all pressure regulation is bypassed and the L/R servo gets full pump pressure.
If the idle is normal, and the fluid level is up then the next go-to is the L/R band adjustment. The servo could simply be out of travel
 
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