Trying to identify A833 & shifter models

[jcwren]

I'm finally back able to work on the '67 Barracuda. This was a slant-6/904 that's been swapped to a 360 Magnum and an A833 trans. I need to find the correct shift linkage for this configuration. It appears I have a Hurst shifter based on the patent numbers, but the model identification that should be stamped on the reverse lever isn't there. The transmission is a ball/detent style, and appears to be a pre-July 1, 1967 model as there's no machined area above the casting number. The crossmember looks to be pretty bastardized as well. Given the pictures, is anyone able to help figure out exactly what I've got, and perhaps which shift linkages I need? I think there's only one set for the A-body with a Hurst, but with this Frankenstein combination, I'm not sure if any will work out of the box.

The two numbers I can find stamped on the shifter are 6852R (picture #1, above lower right mounting hole), and 8327 that's on the plate that fits between the main U-shaped shifter body.

This is the linkage rod set that I'm hoping will work. Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists

Pictures:

1. Shifter
2. Shifter
3. Shifter
4. Crossmember
5. Shifter
6. Shifter
7. Casting number on passenger's side of transmission
8. Casting number on tailshaft
9. Side cover
10. Bad close-up of numbers on side cover

 

[toolmanmike]

Wow, a lot of cutting and hacking going on with the lever and crossmember. A lot of ugly stuff.

 

[jcwren]

Wow, a lot of cutting and hacking going on with the lever and crossmember. A lot of ugly stuff.

Yeah. No idea why the shifter lever is that way, unless it broke, or they wanted it positioned differently. As for the crossmember, I suspect that was made rather than buy a manufactured one, but that's just speculation on my part.

 

[KosmicKuda]

Just eyeballin here.

Looks like an over-the-counter shifter. That's fine but probably needs to be gone through. Looks like the holes in the shifter levers are the larger one so you'll need the bushings. If the trans is A-body then the Brewer's rods will work. That's what they do, Mopar 4 speeds. The reverse rod goes UNDER the mount.

I would buy a used factory crossmember (FABO wanted section) and use the stock style rubber mount. Looks like yours is solid mounted.

 

[Murray]

Am I seeing a ball & trunion drive shaft?

 

[jcwren]

Am I seeing a ball & trunion drive shaft?

I... don't know? I'm not wise enough in the ways A833s to know. Would a better picture of some area help?

 

[66fs]

Cobbled Hurst aftermarket shifter, sell it. 64-65 A-body ball and trunion A-833. You need a Mopar Hurst shifter, linkage, and handle, 68 up. Scrap the cross member and use a 64-65 Valiant or Barracuda drive shaft or swap out the tail housing and main shaft to get things to the slip yoke style. What bell housing is in that mess?

 

[69barracuda68]

I have the same Hurst shifter that came with the 1969 barracuda. Problem, it is missing the part on the back that keeps the shims from traveling too far back and I have to fight to get it to shift. I took it apart cleaned and greased it, doesn't show much wear. I am willing to buy a new one but not sure if the 1968 A833 gear box is "new process" shifter?
The new one I am looking at from summit racing

Hurst Competition/Plus Shifters 3916789​

Part Number: HUU-3916789

Want to know if it will work before, I buy it.
Do I need hurst id code 422 or 6353?

 

[Daves69]

Ya' might check for parts here......

https://www.shifterdoc.com/productcart/pc/Hurst-Service-Parts-Mechanism-Parts-c53.htm

 

[66fs]

I have the same Hurst shifter that came with the 1969 barracuda. Problem, it is missing the part on the back that keeps the shims from traveling too far back and I have to fight to get it to shift. I took it apart cleaned and greased it, doesn't show much wear. I am willing to buy a new one but not sure if the 1968 A833 gear box is "new process" shifter?
The new one I am looking at from summit racing

Hurst Competition/Plus Shifters 3916789​

Part Number: HUU-3916789

Want to know if it will work before, I buy it.
Do I need hurst id code 422 or 6353?

I'd fix what you have. What are you missing? Picture(s)?

 

[69barracuda68]

 

[69barracuda68]

 

[66fs]

You can get that separately. Do not use metric fasteners, or cheap hardware, grade 8 nuts and washers for the lever arms on the transmission.

https://www.shifterdoc.com/productc...sm-Main-Case-Spacer-with-Stop-Bolt-53p221.htm

 

[Dartswinger70]

Yup looks like someone fabbed the manual trans install. Who knows the shifter could have came out of anything but its a factory shift mechanism without shift stops etc . Cross member is home made handle could be from whatever car etc. and made to work. if the mechanism itself id giving issues Id get a Competition plus unit the correct 69 barracuda handle and cross member and mount. the driveline angle could be tweaked with that homemade mount etc. Id be checking the angles at the drive shaft etc. but I tend to over think either way the correct cross member would fix it. one more thing there is usually a hurst stick handle stiffener plate that goes over the two bolts where the handle bolts into the shifter it kind of clamps it into the shift mechanism etc. loooks like :

 

[69barracuda68]

You can get that separately. Do not use metric fasteners, or cheap hardware, grade 8 nuts and washers for the lever arms on the transmission.

https://www.shifterdoc.com/productc...sm-Main-Case-Spacer-with-Stop-Bolt-53p221.htm

Thanks, the fasteners are for something else. Just used the boxes to prop up shifter for photo.

 

[AJ/FormS]

I made my own rods using some seamless tubbing I bought at the machine shop,.
I cut off the ends of an old set of rods, and welded them into the cut-to-length, tubes.
I reused the factory reverse rod as it was.
But that crossmember has got to go, as not only is the loop in a poor location, it offers NO structural assistance to the T-bar Hoop. And it needs large diameter hardened washers on both sides, next to the Crossmember for distributing the clamp load.
I highly recommend the 73-up style, which bolts right in.
Now;
>There is no BnT driveshaft for a 67 up application.
>I do not think there was ever a 904 sized slip-yoke Mainshaft in an A833, outside of the overdrives. So, 727style it will likely have to be.
> Which means no matter what you do, you will Not be able to use the factory driveshaft. However,
you can convert the BnT transmission to slip-yoke status by swapping the NON BnT M/S in, and installing the standard 67 up tail housing; which should have; 1) the larger splines for the 727-sized yoke, and 2) the later speed-O set up for the later cables.. Now you can install any 108 wheelbase 727 sized Driveshaft, for the rearend style that is in your car.. Yes I know, the catalog lists a different PNs for every year; but check the lengths, they are, rear for rear, within tiny fractions of eachother, none of which are too long or too short. IDK what the factory thinking was on this mess.
Make sure your swapped-in tail has the right bushing and seal, for the size of the yoke that the M/S calls for.

BTW;
I'm NOT condemning your X-member based on appearance.
I'm condemning it for lack of strength, and for lack of functionality; as in, how are you gunna connect that reverse rod?
The 73-up X-member is designed to take a Spool-mount which will last a lot longer and handle more power. Plus they're easier to find.

Happy HotRodding.