TTI headders vs Starter vs torsion bar

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Buschi340

Buschi340

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duh, I knew that this would be very very tight. But not that tight that it won't fit... The Starter is a no go. Hits 3 tubes and the headder is not fitting the ports on the head. There is a gap of approx 1cm now with this starter. So I have to dent the tupes or buy a Mini Starter with a different design. With the switch/gearbox on top. My starter has it on the side towards the tubes...
What starter are you guys using?

And it is so f**** tight to the torsion bar driver side too. I'm guessing that I have to raise the tranny a bit to have more clearence. But I won't do that. Not so easy with a massive selfmade cross member for the Toyota tranny... :-( and I don't want to dent the tubes here too.

I need a little bit of motivation now...
 

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I am using the truck starter that came with my 5.7 engine and 545RFE trans.
TTI header clearance is super tight in multiple places including torsion bars, steering box, passenger side frame rail, brake proprotioning block.
The best solution for me was to thicken the driver side engine mount. I'm using the 72 down TTI mounts and the cheap rectangular isolators.

I'll see if I can look up the starter p/n and snap some pics.
 
pics would be cool. I have a 1996 or so Dakota bell housing. Would the starter fit or better does those Dakotas use mini starter?
 
from experience, the mini starter is just such a wise investment that the only reason to not have one...is if you're trying to justify not spending the money b/c you are already holding a working full size one in your hands....between headers, torsion bars, it's just a squeeze no matter how u do it.
 
Here's pics of mine.
pn on starter is 04801253AA
I'm sure others work
 

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looks good. Switch is on top of the starter. Hm, my bell is a bit wider and I have a 143tooth ring like on 11" clutches

Footnotes on the TTI site are refering to a specific starter. Hm, not cheap...

http://www.ttiexhaust.com/Footnotes/10.htm

But I did use a regular Ministarter on the 340 w/ the same Transmission which repaced the original Mopar starter which was on the TF904 so why not the one you have or one from powermaster or a different vendor? Can't find a Dakota starter in the Net w/ the switch on top....

Hui.... not cheap too....

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWM-9523/
 
I used a starter from DB Electrical. Fits great and works great. Here's the EBay link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

My TTI's are very close to driver's side torsion bar, probably 1/8". But to ensure minimal engine movement I used a torque strap and new poly mounts (73 k-frame in a 72 Demon) from Scumacher Creative Services: http://www.engine-swaps.com/index.html

Engine location, height, and correct angles make a huge difference. Check your measurements with TTI directions. Also, the angle of the engine from front to back should be 2 degrees down (lower at tail shaft). Use a cheap angle finder from Lowes or Home Depot against the damper to check angle.
 
what transmission do you have? I'm a bit afraid that I have the same result because of my wider bell..... Switch/gear boxfrom the starter is on the side too....
 
4-speed with Quicktime Bellhousing. The starter in the link I include has the connections on the top of the starter not on the side, (the EBay pictures shows the starter laying on its side).
 
Sorry, just saw you were in Germany. Forget the Lowes and Home Depot comment. But you should be able to find an angle guage at a tool store.
 
Try this Powermaster mini, It slides in & out pretty easy. I'm also running TTI-340A-C5 Headers. As far as tight header clearence, make sure you your crankshaft center is in the proper location. Will will help the tight clearence problems.

You can index this starter, However on my R3 block I had to grind away aprox 3/8 th" of the aluminum index plate allowing me to mount the starter closer to the engine block. This is a very tough little starter. Well worth the money....I paid $ 210.00 Oh ya, I'm hooked to a 904 Torqueflight

PowerMaster XS Torque #9513
200-Foot Pound

HIGHEST TORQUE
Most Efficient
No Heat Soak Problems
Clears All Headers
Clears Oil Pans, OE Location
Billet Aluminum Adapter Block
4.4:1 Gear Reduction Ratio
Cranking Power For up to 18:1 Compression
Mounting Bolts Included
Dyno Test Results Included
Weight: 8.0 lbs.
 
Demon 408 said:
I used a starter from DB Electrical. Fits great and works great. Here's the EBay link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

My TTI's are very close to driver's side torsion bar, probably 1/8". But to ensure minimal engine movement I used a torque strap and new poly mounts (73 k-frame in a 72 Demon) from Scumacher Creative Services: http://www.engine-swaps.com/index.html

Engine location, height, and correct angles make a huge difference. Check your measurements with TTI directions. Also, the angle of the engine from front to back should be 2 degrees down (lower at tail shaft). Use a cheap angle finder from Lowes or Home Depot against the damper to check angle.
Click to expand...

I also use a DB Electrical starter. 3 years plus, no problems and cheap!
 
I think that 143 tooth housing is probably one of the bigger issues, but maybe others can chime in. I used a stock mini starter from a later model Dakota (I think late 90's or early 2000's probably) and it's a tight squeeze, but it manages to clear. I had to take the protective rubber boot off of the wire connecting the solenoid and motor and had to grind the bosses on the block where the car oil pan mounts at an angle for some clearance, but nothing too major. I'm using a stock small block bellhousing though. I not entirely convinced that my headers aren't touching my torsion bar since it bows some when loaded and probably my steering box too, but I haven't heard any scraping or anything. TTI definitely wrote the book on tight clearances, lol.
 
Is that a big block car?

Those headers look nothing like my TTI headers. Does your headers not have the pipe that comes apart on the drivers side? The header gets mounted first then the pipe goes into place and actually goes around the torsion bar.
 
I'm so glad I decided to go with twin turbos my exhaust is not in the way at all. I have a 5.9l starter out of a newer (98-2002) ram and have not bolted it in yet but I'm hopping it will bolt to the 727 trans and work with the Hemi. Guess I'll find out soon enough
 
mullinax95 said:
Is that a big block car?

Those headers look nothing like my TTI headers. Does your headers not have the pipe that comes apart on the drivers side? The header gets mounted first then the pipe goes into place and actually goes around the torsion bar.
Click to expand...

sorry but we are talking about an 6.1 Hemi in a 1972 Dart...
 
Demon 408 said:
4-speed with Quicktime Bellhousing. The starter in the link I include has the connections on the top of the starter not on the side, (the EBay pictures shows the starter laying on its side).
Click to expand...
how wide is such a quicktime bellhousing? Similar to my Dakota bellhousing?

The problemis more the gearbox of the starter which hits the tubes. Not the connections. And because of the design I can't cut or grind on the starter housing.

the robmc starter seems to fit. No gear box. But not cheap. plus shipping, tax and fees more than 500USD for me.....
 
Robb Mc starter is pricey but with all the starter problems I went through it would have paid for itself if I had it from the beginning.
 
I used 440 source mini-starter--slides in and out sweet and have had no issues in 2 years,My headers are also close if not touching the torsion bars..WHATS THE BIG DEAL?? the torsion bars twist for load and I have never had any noise,rubbing or anything come from my torsion bars touching the headers in fact my por-15 is still on the torsion bars and is not burnt anywhere.My worry is the headers are so close to the brake proportioning valve and thought I would have brake fade but up until now NOT A ISSUE.I had to make one little dent in the header on the pass. side for my center link wouldn't touch it but again NO ISSUES. Swifter
 
it's just about the starter. Everything else can be adjusted. The thing is to know what starter fits. I thought my mini starter would. I don't want to import one after the other starter to make my own experiences. This is really too expensive..... unfortunately all shops don't provide measurements. And brake lines can be rerouted more easily than finding the correct parts w/o the experience you guys made. Here in Germany is this conversion not that popular, I don't even know anybody here (especially with a 5 speed)... ;-) Do you have a 11" clutch on your car?
 
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