TTI header woes

-
No WAY !!! That crappy company !!! JK Not as bad a company as some people think...Attitude may have something to do with it. I love mine...
 
Kiddart1 said:
if moving the proportioning valve was your biggest problem then you were lucky. these swaps are easy to a point but do take some creative thinking. No way on gods green earth would i cut up $800 dollar headers. I just moved my proportioning valve, solved. I don't want to pick a fight but i don't think you saw the forest behind the tree. I am like 408 swinger, i made adjustments. I would suggest to put some heat wrap around the valve to stop any unwanted heat messing with the brakes.
Click to expand...

I modified the one one tube and they fit without moving anything else or jacking around with the brake lines in the car. I know before i went with the old headers that were on my 340 I had the very same issue with the one tube hitting the valve. Turned out it for earlier year a bodys. Just when I called to ask a question the guy on the phone didn’t have the time of day to even answer any questions but said our jigs are perfect and they drop in on every car that uses them. Didn’t think I’d get a wadded up pantie party for posting this lol
 
I know they have at least one or more front frames either with or without the inner fender wells attached, that they originally used to design the headers with their engine mounts. I kinda doubt they had the brake valve bolted in place when they did this. My valve was in the way but I would have had no problem moving it if that was the only problem. I would have had to severely smash a header tube to clear the driver side torsion bar. I had to do that on an old set of Hedman headers for an old 440 Plymouth I had when I was 19 years old. I wasn't about to do that 50 years later on my Cuda.
 
RustyRatRod said:
It's a real shame companies can make headers that fit Ford, GM, AMC, and a host of others with no fitment issues, but no one can do it for Mopar. Some fit good, some don't. And that's true even buying the "best".
Click to expand...
Its not Mopar specific. The other brands has plenty of isues aswell,part of it is tolerances stacking up between now and when the car was built an eternity ago.

AJ/FormS said:
hotrodding ain't what it used to be.
Click to expand...
Correct,people complained a whole lot less in the past and got alot more done.

Kendog 170 said:
Is it the headers or inconsistancies from Mopar ? My ragtop rear end is off by 1/4". I know thats not header related but who knows about the front of the car ?
Click to expand...
Just a quarter inch of is nothing on these old cars,F body GMs tend to be even worse.

RustyRatRod said:
I think it's the header companies. Lemmie sorta answer that by askin you this. Do you really and I mean REALLY think that all the other domestic makes were made THAT much better and THAT much more consistent than our Mopars? I sure don't. Yet, they all have parts.....not just headers, that fit and function better on their cars than we do on ours and our parts cost more. Kinda backwards ain't it?
Click to expand...

Sorry to ruin your party but there are plenty of problems with all brands of cars.
 
matthon said:
Unrelated but related, I had an issue with tti coated headers, they started to rust.
I read through the warranty and I had no interest in r&r, be out of a car, box up, send back, etc. Especially because 2 of the bolts are a royal pain.
Sent them an email stating that, adding I don't want anything but for them to offer a better coating on the poly headers for the next customer, as they didn't offer the same coating as bb headers.
2 weeks later I received an email, they're sending me new headers with their top of the line coating. I called to buy new gaskets, as it's a 318 poly and not a common gasket. Their reply, we're sending you everything, headers, gaskets, bolts, enjoy.
Click to expand...

Old thread I know, but I was searching for proportioning valve clearance experience as I'm looking at redoing my master cylinder setup and new front lines was likely going to part of that. Saw this comment and I'm in the same boat. I bought my headers way back when they first came out, so maybe 10 years ago or so and the coating on them is kind of junk. The bottom especially is really flaking badly and rusting a lot, thought the tops at the flanges themselves aren't as bad.
 
Map63Vette said:
I bought my headers way back when they first came out, so maybe 10 years ago or so and the coating on them is kind of junk. The bottom especially is really flaking badly and rusting a lot, thought the tops at the flanges themselves aren't as bad.
Click to expand...
If you're talking about the TTI headers, they have been out longer than ten years. I bought mine in either '08 or '09. I've never had a problem with mine, great fit and they still look as good as they did when I first put them in the car.
 
Still an old thread, even with the May 2023 posts, but my TTI headers also hit the proportioning valve (or combination valve, or whatever you call it) in my 65 Barracuda 340. I just moved the valve back a couple of inches or however much it took to get it out of the way. Had to fabricate new M/C lines anyway, and it was easy enough to also shorten the front/rear line and put a double flare in it. Very simple procedure compared to swapping in a late Hemi.

I don't know how much variance there is in later A bodies, but I can tell you the valve in my 65 Barracuda was originally mounted 2-3 inches ahead of the valve in my 63 Valiant, even though they are the same basic chassis. I can't fault TTI for failing to accommodate every conceivable production variation.
 
Never owned TTI headers. I have bought their head pipes for factory manifolds and the fitment was great. But what I really wanted to say was I called the tech support to order headers and basically got chewed out for what I wanted to do, or asking. The arrogance was off the chart. Basically, "I'm TTI, now listen up and shut up..... and your dumb for wanting the product we offer". I wanted their small block shorty headers and head pipes for a A-body. If I didn't buy their long tubes, I was hopeless and full of no understanding. Not sure the guy's name or if he is even still there. But i didn't buy.
 
392heminut said:
If you're talking about the TTI headers, they have been out longer than ten years. I bought mine in either '08 or '09. I've never had a problem with mine, great fit and they still look as good as they did when I first put them in the car.
Click to expand...
I'm not sure what it is about mine. Granted my car also sits outside all the time, albeit under a cover, but the coating has not held up well for me at all.
 
You folks need to install headers on a 64 - 67 Mustang with "linkage" style power steering, or headers on a 429 Thunderbird.
Mopars are a piece of cake .
 
inertia said:
You folks need to install headers on a 64 - 67 Mustang with "linkage" style power steering, or headers on a 429 Thunderbird.
Mopars are a piece of cake .
Click to expand...
I put headers on a 67 Fairlane with a 428. With that goofy as power assist steering ram linkage bullshit. What a cocksucker!!! Mopars ARE easy.
 
I'm installing a 360 magnum in my '67 dart and I'm using TTi shorty headers. No issues whatsoever on the passenger side, but yes on the driver side the collector interferes with the brake proportioning valve. I'm gonna have to reconfigure that valve...
 
Hey, there are a few places where I'm gonna need to make a dent in the header for fitment. It has the ceramic coating, has anyone done this successfully or does it totally screw the coating? heat first help?
 
...and did the coating crack, fall off or what? Did you heat it before you beat it? Sorry if that sounded off ...
 
I've only worked on a coupla shorty header vehicles, they are a mess.
I won't ding a ceramic header cuz it fractures the ceramic, think porcelain, glass.
Water get in the cracks inner and outer and rust developed.
TTI had issues like that, I stopped installing them.
I'm presuming you read previous posts regarding loosening all the fasteners thru the block, loosened/removed trans mount bolts, allowing you to shift the engine around about an inch using all the slop in the loose bolts, then tightening it down when everything has clearance.
I only install long tubes, and haven't had to ding one in a very long time. (Not sure if the Doug's got better, or the vehicles).
- Since I learned how to bend tubes and modify the head flange angle, it can be a lotta work, but I love a challenge.
Good luck, wait till you get to the Dr side head pipe.
 
Last edited:
Not sure if it helps your swap, but Dana67Dart just dug up a "where the engine should be", perhaps it may help you.

IMG_20240421_125507.jpg
 
Last edited:
Looks like I shoulda posted that chart earlier, sorry .

I had a similar situation on a Chally bblk, couldn't get the motor over any farther, so took a belt sander to the header flange to tuck the bottom in away from the T-bar, then draw filed till fair.(that header was fkd)
I also use a ratchet strap around the trans to draw the header away, - on much closer clearance issues.
Haven't seen one dinged like that since one dude pounded the top of the tubes flat, - trying to get it in from the top, seriously.

I come from the era of headers that needed every header flange draw-filed true, - if you didn't weld up the dips and file the bumps to get the flange to seal, (nobody did that), - and then spent decades bitching about header leaks, and the cost of Remflex gaskets. LOL.
My mentor wouldn't let a leaky set outta the shop, - I filed/welded every set.
Never used anything but the flange gasket supplied by manufacturer or Mr Gskt ever .
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top