TTI Problems - Annoyed!

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moparspares

moparspares

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Tried fitting my TTIs headers myself and could not get the car high enough to feed them in from the bottom. Had enough of that so took the whole lot down to the exhaust shop. They tried to put them in and was hitting steering coupler. We pulled the column back and then I left the guys to it. They got them on and now it interferes with the steering coupler when turning. We followed all the instructions and I bought all the compatibale parts eg Scumacher Mounts, High torque Mini Starter etc.

This has really pissed me off especially when you follow there instructions to the letter. I dont know how the hell they test fitted these according to their instructions.

1973 Plymouth Duster
 
manual steering or power? i replaced my power box for a manual one and had zero issues in my dart
 
Shouldn't matter according To TTI. It says on there website Power Steering - Yes. What really pisses me off is that I rebuilt the original coupler only a couple months ago and now I have to pull the column again to put in a Borganson coupler. It not only has cost me time but 3 hours of labor at the exhaust shop because TTI fail to tell you that they will not work with power steering and standard coupler.

Now I have to trailer my car from the exhaust shop back home and back in shed while I wait 10 days for the coupler to arrive then back down to the shop for round 2. I spend the money on supposedly the best so you dont run into these issues and you still get fucked around. Thanks a lot TTI - How about updating your website so others dont have to suffer this grief.
 
TTI has sold enough of them they should have heard every fitment problem many times over.
They have a pretty big list of footnotes. Sounds like it could have been a bit bigger.
 
Not sure if this will help, but my car too has power steering and it's a four speed.
I had to add a 1/8 inch shim under both motor mounts, and tilted the motor ever so slightly a couple of degrees on the mounts.
Then I had issues with the Z bar for the clutch linkage, had to do a little grinding to the bottom of the Z bar to prevent the adjuster from hitting the headers when letting out the clutch.
I have only minimal clearance between the power steering box and the headers.
As for the steering shaft coupler it is not special, just a new standard piece.
Hope that helps.
I have had not issue from the above mentioned modifications.
 
One more thing i forgot to mention.
I loosened the transmission tailstock mounting bolts during the install.
Before I tightened up the bolts it was necessary to leverage the motor and trans back a hair before tightening the trans tailstock mounting bolts.
The total clearance from these adjustments got me approximately an 1/8 inch clearance between the header and the power steering box and no issue with the steering coupler.
Just enough to prevent contact even when the engine idles a little rough.
 
sorry for your issues with tti.i also have a 73 with ps.i dont have have the mounts you have ,i have stock spool mounts.you really have to get the car in the air.tti are simple the best header for our mopar a bodies that and dougs out there.you must have something else out of kilter.
 
jdsduster said:
sorry for your issues with tti.i also have a 73 with ps.i dont have have the mounts you have ,i have stock spool mounts.you really have to get the car in the air.tti are simple the best header for our mopar a bodies that and dougs out there.you must have something else out of kilter.
Click to expand...

probably the same on a 73. I loosened the bolts at the floor that holds the steering column in, and pried it over as far as it would go and retightened the bolts. gave about an 1/8" more clearance on my fish . jfyi
 
I put mine in place before I dropped the motor in place and it was still a bear.
 
I have a 67 Dart with a 71 340 and the K member from the same car (71 demon) when I put my Hooker super comps on had problems with clearance in several places

So when I had to remove the engine bought a set of polished ceramic coated TTI and still had figment issues

Had to raise the engine on the drivers side. Used large washers and then had actual spacers made. The washers are still in there because now I cannot get the engine up high enought to get the washers out and spacers installed without pulling the headers or the mounts off the block.

A buddy has the same headers on his 74 Duster and he used the poly-lock motor mounts and thinks they are a little thicker than the stock biscuits because he has no issues

Good luck with the fit and clearance,

YOU ARE NOT ALONE!
 
Real 72 said:
Not sure if this will help, but my car too has power steering and it's a four speed.
I had to add a 1/8 inch shim under both motor mounts, and tilted the motor ever so slightly a couple of degrees on the mounts.
Click to expand...

not an option
you have a 72, which means biscuit mounts, those are shimable
he has a 73, which means spool mounts, which to the best of my knowledge are not shimable
(on my 71 duster, I had to shim the passenger side mount to clear my dougs headers)
 
Wow, i have a 440 in my 76 duster. Originally a slant 6 car used a slank 6 k frame with conversion mounts, 727 trans, manual steering, spool mounts, best fitting headers i have ever installed!!!!
Headers wrap perfectly around torsion bars but installation is tricky. Used to put headers in car then lower engine down in now we assembly the engine with headers attached and install from underneath the car and would always install from undeath the car.
 
I'm betting the Schumacher mounts are the issue. When fitting these motors, spend the time to get an original V8 k frame. Its almost impossible to make a conversion mount and have the motor wind up in the exact same spot. I went through this with a customers A body and BB mounts. They were way off.
 
GMachineDartGT said:
I'm betting the Schumacher mounts are the issue. When fitting these motors, spend the time to get an original V8 k frame. Its almost impossible to make a conversion mount and have the motor wind up in the exact same spot. I went through this with a customers A body and BB mounts. They were way off.
Click to expand...

^^^^ A friend of mine tried using these and ended up cutting and rewelding them to get a 383 in a Dart that had the 6 cylinder K-member. I think there are good ones then there are ones that are off...
 
I've got the polylocs going on 5 sesaons now have had no problems with them installing my tti's...
 
But, tti fit perfect on everything, so some have told us repeatedly... :) LOL

Check the engine location using the K frame measurements.
 
On my Valiant '69 I had to shim the motor. It has PS. They fit perfect otherwise. I can't comment on spool mount never done a set.
 
Dude. Just pull the column and unbolt the steering box and scoot it over. Don't let it kick your ***.
 
Right on their website it say they can't guarantee 100% fit. It sounds like to me if you have to shim the mounts couldn't it just be old saggy mounts an new ones might do the trick ??
 
The 73 up spool type K frames seem to be the worst fitting type. If you look at the rubber mount inside the bracket, there is a TON of space for the engine to settle, squish, or be located odd.
 
2 Problems. Here is a pic of the headers hitting chassis. I took video of coupler but I cant upload it (wrong format). The coupler is hitting even without the spring that holds dust cover.

I spoke to TTI today and they said they have never heard of this problem Huh - I googled it and there is others with same issue. He said some cars have minor issues and build qaulity back in the day etc etc.

Now I am going to change coupler to either Borganson or Flaming River. Whichever has the least diameter.

For those that have suggested mounts they are Spool Mounts and are brand new Schumacher. You cant space or pack them, they sit where they sit.
 

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Your problem is almost for sure, your engine location. But having the 73 mount system is a hurdle in your case. The welding and jigging of these k frames is all over the map, and its also been correctly mentioned already that the aftermarket mounts are sometimes off also.......I feel for ya, don't get discouraged!
 
moparspares said:
2 Problems. Here is a pic of the headers hitting chassis. I took video of coupler but I cant upload it (wrong format). The coupler is hitting even without the spring that holds dust cover.

I spoke to TTI today and they said they have never heard of this problem Huh - I googled it and there is others with same issue. He said some cars have minor issues and build qaulity back in the day etc etc.

Now I am going to change coupler to either Borganson or Flaming River. Whichever has the least diameter.

For those that have suggested mounts they are Spool Mounts and are brand new Schumacher. You cant space or pack them, they sit where they sit.
Click to expand...

I have the exact same problem
right on this picture
I tried diferent way to install those engine mount the only thing
you can do is put shim Under them

excuse me but doesnt help at all
if I lowered the engine more the headers hit the idle arm
if I put shim Under them its worts as you can see in the pics the higher the
engine is install the tighter it gets

Id change the mount didnt help either
at the cost they are selling those Im not impress AT ALL

maybe road kill have the solution

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=azPKIjxmmdU"]Exhaust Header Bash! Testing Power Loss From Dents - Engine Masters Ep. 4 - YouTube[/ame]
 
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