tuning issue?

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haha, thanks,i ts tough to get a good plug picture between 2 of my race buddies. one said it's too rich and needs to be a step colder, the other said it's a bit lean on the secondary side and needs less timing.

so I have to turn to my Mopar brothers for some answers
 
well I did get that other set of plugs, but before I go changing anything I'll bump the timing to 34 and see how it acts
 
You will need a fresh plug as the coating has burned off to that lever.......you can use your same plug but its going to be a lot harder to see the new line on the ground strap.
 

You said you have a set of colder plugs, right? Install one and do the same test as before, then drop the timing 2 degrees and replace that one with a fresh one. This way you can see where or how far the heat "didn't" travel down the ground strap before you change anything but the plug. Make sence?
 
yes it does, and I got the plugs from advanced, I pick them up in the morning.
I'll try it and report back!
 
You built a combo designed to perform in the 4500 -7500 rpm range. no matter what you do, it's gonna be a tad soft down low.
 
You built a combo designed to perform in the 4500 -7500 rpm range. no matter what you do, it's gonna be a tad soft down low.
I did advance the cam hopping to bring the power down in the 3500-6500 range... but after I get everything tuned properly I can always send my converter in or get another, a 4500 stall would really hit the spot! and idk about 7500 but I ain't scared to shift in the 6500-6800 range if need be.
I doubt it would make power that high though, but when I get it to the track we will know for sure lol
 
plan on upping the stall. unless you like playing catchup at the track. it's fun, but it don't work all the time.
 
the old combo was the same motor with stock dished pistons at a whopping 8.5:1 with a 528 cam in a 3500lb coronet went 1.68 60' and 12.60, it did have a 8" treemaster that flashed to 4500.
the only difference now is compression, cam, and car. be pretty cool to see the difference 2 full points of compression made and the next size bigger purple shaft
 
any work done to the heads. my combo has full ported 915's 2.14 in and 1.74 ex.
 
just a light gasket match, no real porting...
what's the rest of your combo if you don't mind me asking?
 
well no new plug results yet...gotta pull the trans, got a nice trans leak out of the bellhousing, I replaced the pump seal not too long ago but I'll put in a new bushing and seal, check the plug, and maybe relocate vent to the back of the case by the tailhousing
 
If it is coming out of the vent, you have too much oil(overfilled) or overheat if you don't have trans cooler. moving the vent won't' fix anything.
Probably just a worn TQ bussing. Check the TQ hup to make sure it its not cracked.
 
the trans level was on the money, hot idle in neutral, I do have a trans cooler as well...

what is the point in moving the vent?
I've always heard it's better
 
I'm not going to give you a reason..........some one else might.......
 
Hard to tell but am I seeing the timing mark past the apex of the ground strap? If so, pull timing out. To know if your plugs are too hot or cold, read the threads. The first couple threads should be discolored and that's a good plug for the engine for temp. Buildup on the end of the threaded body indicates a fat idle. The real true way to know if WOT is good is to make a hard run, shut it off immediately, pull the plugs, and cut the threaded body off to inspect the base of the insulator. You cannot easily see this area without removing the threaded body. But initial indications show that you're lean on WOT with the porcelain being that white. Mine look the same way and I'm about 12.0-12.2 AFR at WOT. So how my engine is lean according to plugs but 12.0-12.2 AFR according to my wideband is beyond me. Here's a good read:

Spark plug reading
 
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