Turbo 383 in a A-body Barracuda

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Well, its done. My camera makes those leds look Way brighter than they are. Not to bad eh?
 

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Me likey too!It's given me some new idea's to work on..
 
Entertaining SERIOUS offers!
Lowballers will be ignored. I have a truckload of money in this car! I will park it behind my shop before I give it away!

I don't want too, but no more funds and a Grim future.
 
Mad Dart said:
Your selling the Turbo Project?? Is that what your saying?
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Unfortunately this may be the horrible reality. I don't want too! I thought buying just outside the Houston metro area at the time was a good idea but potential employers seem to see things differently. I didn't want to raise my children in such a crime ridden city. With living so close to the southern border, danger has become the norm in Big City life. We moved 45 miles out of Houston to get away from it and live a somewhat comfortable life. Apparently that was a HUGE mistake! Local jobs won't pay the bills much less fund a project like this. The car is paid for, my 2 acres of land is paid for but the Necessities of life continue. I will continue to use/install what I have obtained in the past for the car until its all gone.

Hopefully something will change for the better and I can keep and continue to finish what I started. If I do get rid of my car I will NEVER be able to replace it and will regret my decision.

Sorry for the "Whoa's Me" response but it is the brutal truth!
 
I got the glass installed in the doors and new weatherstrips. Had the doors aligned but when I got the vent glass frames installed it threw them outa wack a little. Damn doors are flimsy when everything is removed. Shifter is in and hooked up. Still need a shorter driveshaft. Still need to fab a bracket for the Hallman Pro MBC and the dial for the MSD BTM but its all hooked up! Since I changed to a 727 the exhaust I fabbed up will not work. Much tighter under there since the 727 is wider.
Geez, 1 step forward three steps back!

If anyone wonders what the spec is on the left side of the decklid that would be a "Decepticon" emblem lol. I'm still a 43 year old Toys R Us Kid!!
 

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CUUDAK said:
Unfortunately this may be the horrible reality. I don't want too! I thought buying just outside the Houston metro area at the time was a good idea but potential employers seem to see things differently. I didn't want to raise my children in such a crime ridden city. With living so close to the southern border, danger has become the norm in Big City life. We moved 45 miles out of Houston to get away from it and live a somewhat comfortable life. Apparently that was a HUGE mistake! Local jobs won't pay the bills much less fund a project like this. The car is paid for, my 2 acres of land is paid for but the Necessities of life continue. I will continue to use/install what I have obtained in the past for the car until its all gone.

Hopefully something will change for the better and I can keep and continue to finish what I started. If I do get rid of my car I will NEVER be able to replace it and will regret my decision.

Sorry for the "Whoa's Me" response but it is the brutal truth!
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Sorry to hear this. I can understand the market has been hit hard and alot of people are in the midst of it. I hope it gets better for you soon.
 
Well, tried to fire the damn thing up today!
Fuel pump controller only works when boost is applied so the pump will not run. To top things off I have NO fire!
Run through the wiring 15 times and everything is wired correctly. Got fire to the dizzy but nothing to the coil. The dizzy is wired through the BTM.
Sooooo,
I guess my BRAND NEW out of the box 6AL is garbage. To top that I have had the 6AL for over a year and its out of warranty. OMFG!!!!!
 
Check to see if the FP Controller is receiving +12V when cranking. Same with the 6AL.
It has got to be something small.
 
Mad Dart said:
Check to see if the FP Controller is receiving +12V when cranking. Same with the 6AL.
It has got to be something small.
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Yep,
I had it wired into the back of the fusebox to acessories and it would shut down when I turn the key. So I pulled that and wired it directly to a constant hot. Still no juice at the coil.

I pulled the boost line from the FP controller and blew into it and it came on. I even adjusted it to the lowest setting. Still no power until I blew into it. I was thinking that maybe it would come on with a vacuum signal, no dice!
 
CUUDAK said:
Yep,
I had it wired into the back of the fusebox to acessories and it would shut down when I turn the key. So I pulled that and wired it directly to a constant hot. Still no juice at the coil.

I pulled the boost line from the FP controller and blew into it and it came on. I even adjusted it to the lowest setting. Still no power until I blew into it. I was thinking that maybe it would come on with a vacuum signal, no dice!
Click to expand...

Well for now maybe disconnect the FP Controller, You won't be on boost right away anyhow. As far as the 6AL, is there a setting in that one for Cylinder Preference?? 4-6 or 8 Cylinders?? I know there is a specific wiring diagram for us Mopar guys did you trace all that back? Sometimes looking at something too long will cause us to miss something. Maybe take a step back, eat a bowl of soup and rethink it?

I thought that the Coil wire thru the 6AL + is a constant hot and the coil is Negative Triggered. If I recall correctly.
 
Mad Dart said:
Well for now maybe disconnect the FP Controller, You won't be on boost right away anyhow. As far as the 6AL, is there a setting in that one for Cylinder Preference?? 4-6 or 8 Cylinders?? I know there is a specific wiring diagram for us Mopar guys did you trace all that back? Sometimes looking at something too long will cause us to miss something. Maybe take a step back, eat a bowl of soup and rethink it?
Click to expand...

Yeah, all three wires behind the little black cap are intact. To get 4 and 6 cylinder you have to cut certain wires behind that cap.

I wired the 6AL and the BTM in a series like the instructions listed. I took the electronic ignition out of the dizzy and just used the pickup per instructions as well.
Didn't use the green and purple pickup wires on the 6AL and wired the BTM to the white. Then used the green and purple pickup plug from the BTM. I have power to and from the dizzy so I know the BTM is working. The orange and black from the 6AL fires the coil.
 
CUUDAK said:
Yeah, all three wires behind the little black cap are intact. To get 4 and 6 cylinder you have to cut certain wires behind that cap.

I wired the 6AL and the BTM in a series like the instructions listed. I took the electronic ignition out of the dizzy and just used the pickup per instructions as well.
Didn't use the green and purple pickup wires on the 6AL and wired the BTM to the white. Then used the green and purple pickup plug from the BTM. I have power to and from the dizzy so I know the BTM is working. The orange and black from the 6AL fires the coil.
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Sounds like it is right. Check the MAIN power wires for +12V.....

Also I am betting the White Wire that says do not use on the BTM will ultimately need to be connected to the Original NEGATIVE Coil Wire from your cars harness. How else will it know what to do, there is no feed for the ignition signal that I can see the way they say to do it.........

View attachment Screen shot 2012-03-10 at 3.16.30 PM.jpg

Wiring Diagram Here.......

View attachment 5462.pdf
 
Mad Dart said:
Sounds like it is right. Check the MAIN power wires for +12V.....

Also I am betting the White Wire that says do not use on the BTM will ultimately need to be connected to the Original NEGATIVE Coil Wire from your cars harness. How else will it know what to do, there is no feed for the ignition signal that I can see the way they say to do it.........

View attachment 307775

Wiring Diagram Here.......

View attachment 307776
Click to expand...

The white wire on the BTM has power when tested with a test light. It is not wired to anything per instructions.
 
Mad Dart said:
The MSD 6AL "White Wire is FED by the BTM Orange Wire.... It however should be getting its Information from the BTM White Wire.....

See the Chrysler Wiring Diagram below which is on PAGE 20 of the attached PDF Instructions.......

View attachment 307783

View attachment 307784
Click to expand...
Not using the Chrysler ignition. The coil is running through the 6AL. I am using a Accel Billetproof dizzy without the electronic ignition. I removed that per instructions. Just the magnetic pickup is being used.

The BTM I have has a yellow wire instead of the orange as shown in the diagram
 
Ok, wish I was there. It would be easier to diagnose. Im trying......

So you wired it like the first picture I posted. So it is + triggered off your ignition switch at cranking.... I would check that wire when cranking again. I bet it shuts down and looses +12V.

Where are you pulling the MAIN + and Neg leads from?

You are either loosing power or ground, I doubt it's the 6al.
 
Mad Dart said:
Ok, wish I was there. It would be easier to diagnose. Im trying......

So you wired it like the first picture I posted. So it is + triggered off your ignition switch at cranking.... I would check that wire when cranking again. I bet it shuts down and looses +12V.

Where are you pulling the MAIN + and Neg leads from?
Click to expand...

Lol! I thank you for try'n! My scalp hurts from scratching so much.

Its wired just like the first pic.

I did however have the trigger/switched 12+ hooked into the acessory teriminal on the back of the fusebox and when I turn the key it died. I removed it and provided a constant 12+ to troubleshoot.

Main 12+ is direct to the battery side of the starter relay under the hood.
Checked main power and its there even while turning key. I built a new harness with fuses at the battery and 30 amp breakers just above the FP controller and MSD's. They each have their own circuit.

Negative is bolted between the lower dash mount and A-pillar with clean metal.

I'm tempted to swipe the 6AL out of my Dads Duster! Its old but still works.
 
Do you have a goog ground strap from the engine to the body of the car? I hook my leads directly to the battery. You may be loosing ground at cranking is another guess. Try grounding directly to the battery.
 
Mad Dart said:
Do you have a goog ground strap from the engine to the body of the car? I hook my leads directly to the battery. You may be loosing ground at cranking is another guess. Try grounding directly to the battery.
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Yep!
One from the battery to the engine block, one from the block to the firewall and one from the block to the wiper motor stud.
 
Gosh dang....... My EFI was easier to set up after all of the wiring I did..... Maybe it is the 6al. Go rip that friggieng thing out of your Dads Car!! I want to hear and see a Video tonight of it running!!:D
 
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