Turbo 383 in a A-body Barracuda

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DODGESTRIKE said:
why dont you go with a 400 ? is a stronger block they are cheap and you can use everything you already have plus there are off the shelf pistons for it (cheaper)

and ttf member cw25 is running 1.10 ar on his 400 iirc.

just something to think about
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The 400 is no stronger than the 383 413 440. They are all pretty much the same blocks other than stroke and the deck height on the 413 and the 440. Even the 426 is close to the same block.

I did see the truck over on ttf and spoke with him a couple of times.
 
well its said that the 400 is the strongest factory bb ( excluding the hemi ) and from the pictures ive seen on the web and my 400 seems beefier than most 440 and 383 blocks ive seen bare.

not trying to argue or anything just trying to help so you have a cheaper piston choice and dont have to go custom, and those 27+ ci are a plus to me.

this article its interesting http://www.440source.com/blockinfo.htm

at least it helped me to clear some big block myths like the thin castings and the earlier the better it is.

you have a great proyect btw !
 
DODGESTRIKE said:
well its said that the 400 is the strongest factory bb ( excluding the hemi ) and from the pictures ive seen on the web and my 400 seems beefier than most 440 and 383 blocks ive seen bare.

not trying to argue or anything just trying to help so you have a cheaper piston choice and dont have to go custom, and those 27+ ci are a plus to me.

this article its interesting http://www.440source.com/blockinfo.htm

at least it helped me to clear some big block myths like the thin castings and the earlier the better it is.

you have a great proyect btw !
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No offense taken.. There has been alot of debating on the year theory and thickness of the blocks.. I had thought about the 496 stroker kit from 440 source but changed my mind. I can build the Torque with the turbo instead of the big inches. I have done so much research my head is about to explode!!
 
i know that feeling lol , and yes a stroker is kind of "useless" with turbos not useless but you know what i mean haha.

like i said i suggested the 400 not because of the cubes that are relative on a turbo build but cause of the bigger piston offering on hughesengines for example there are dished forged diamonds for 7xx dlls for the 400 and you can order it with the "special" alloy for blown.turbo.nitrous aplication
and maybe you can trade or sale the 383 block to get a 400.

anyhow good luck with your build and post lost of pictures man.

im also looking into turboing something but still on the research and saving money phase lol.
 
What is it with 383's??? All are cracked in the same place!

Soooooo,
400 it is! Got it to the machine shop today. Hopefully it will be usable. It had .040 pistons in it so it may need to go out .060

I will be able to use the forged crank from the 383 and rods that I have already ordered.
Pistons for this 400 are usually off the shelf pieces fortunatly.....
 
good call , you gain 27ci not needed but they dont hurt anyone , a stronger block and off the shelf cheaper pistons ,plus you use the parts you already have :-D
 
inkjunkie said:
The 400 block sounds like it can stand up to a bit of power..... http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/hrdp_0812_1100_hp_pump_gas_mopar_b_motor/index.html
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Well,
the block I just picked up is a 1975. It has a very large Rib about halfway down the outside of the block and runs the entire length on both sides.
I have not seen this before on earlier blocks. This must be an improvement on the castings for strength along the outside of the cylinders.

I just Hope it is usuable!!
 
Well,
I got a new Aeromotive fuel pump controller! Did not sell on ebay so I made an offer and got it brand new in the box for $170.00.
Damn I love ebay!!!

The S480 turbo has "been" paid for so hopefully it will be shipped soon too!! Hurry up and wait!! I hate that part!!
 
lets hope its usable , that article from 440source i posted earlier thalks about that rib in later blocks also improved water passages and beefier motor mount ribs.

good deal on the pump controller , how much did you paid for that s480 its the one from ttf ?
 
DODGESTRIKE said:
lets hope its usable , that article from 440source i posted earlier thalks about that rib in later blocks also improved water passages and beefier motor mount ribs.

good deal on the pump controller , how much did you paid for that s480 its the one from ttf ?
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Yes, it is the one from ttf. $775.00.. One of the vendors there wanted $920.00 for the same setup but none of the extras! The 1.10 housing and the .83 wheel is supposed to be an upgrade from the 1.32 housing and the .96 wheel. He sold the blanket before he checked his email on the offer I listed. I got a better deal without it! I paypal'd him 2 nights ago and haven't recieved a tracking number yet. He seems to be pretty busy in his personal things. Hope all goes well!? I read all of his history! Looks to be a honest guy.
 
Mad Dart said:
Is this the seller?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Aero...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
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I wish it was those for your sake. You would have known a bottom best offer!?
This one I got from an independent seller. It was listed at $200 starting bid and never got a starting bid so I made an offer and he countered and I agreed, Sold! Ebay is cool!

It is the Aeromotive 16303 billet new never used in its original unopened box. Jegs lists it at $451.00
 

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All this Red stuff is gonna look funny on my Blue car!!LoL! Guess I will make sure to get all blue AN fittings...LoL!
 
the 80mm inducer its the upgrade from the 75mm.

the hp ratings are 1200 for the 1.32 ar 96mm and 1025 for the 1.10 ar 83mm, i think you got confused for all that research it happens to all of us lol. 1025hp rated turbo for $775 :thumblef:

are you going 727 or manual and dana 60 or 8.75 rear?

use red and blue AN fittings so the contrast looks intentional haha
 
DODGESTRIKE said:
the 80mm inducer its the upgrade from the 75mm.

the hp ratings are 1200 for the 1.32 ar 96mm and 1025 for the 1.10 ar 83mm, i think you got confused for all that research it happens to all of us lol. 1025hp rated turbo for $775 :thumblef:

are you going 727 or manual and dana 60 or 8.75 rear?

use red and blue AN fittings so the contrast looks intentional haha
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It has the 833 4 speed in it now. May go with the 727 with 3500 stall later.
Has a 8 3/4 Sure-grip now with 3.91. I have another chunk with 3.55's but may end up with the original 3.23 gear.
 
Ok,
Most all of the parts have been shipped!!!
I got the 60mm wastegate, 50mm blowoff valve and the 31"x11"x3" intercooler and 3" pipe kit. Also the Oil feed and return kit.

Still waiting to hear from the machine shop on the 400!!

S480 Turbo was shipped out yesterday from New Jersey.

Aeromotive pump controller also shipped out yesterday from Nevada.

Now, how long will it take to get to Texas. Well, UPS sucks and most everything was shipped this way. Dammit! I hate UPS!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Also,
1" 7/8's Weld-up header kit, Header flanges(did not come with the header kit), 3" v-band clamps, T6 1/2" flange, Carb bonnet.

Now I need to find a local muffler shop around Hempstead for the 4" downpipe.... The S480 has a 5" exhaust housing. The turbo comes with the 5" starter pipe and a 5" to 4" reducer. Hope reducing from 5" to a 4" downpipe won't cause issues????
 
Sorry folks for the long wait!!
I just wanted to make sure My investment will last. Also waiting on an independent seller slows the process too! I am always looking for the "DEAL" before I go for retail.

As soon as stuff arrives I will post pics of my "Budget" build. Can't start mockup till the 400 is out of the shop. Looks like I will have to take a trip to Houston to find mandrel bent piping somewhere.

P-A-T-I-E-N-C-E !!
Something I ain't got!!! Lol!
 
CUUDAK said:
Also,
1" 7/8's Weld-up header kit, Header flanges(did not come with the header kit), 3" v-band clamps, T6 1/2" flange, Carb bonnet.

Now I need to find a local muffler shop around Hempstead for the 4" downpipe.... The S480 has a 5" exhaust housing. The turbo comes with the 5" starter pipe and a 5" to 4" reducer. Hope reducing from 5" to a 4" downpipe won't cause issues????
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I'm not a turbo genius, But I do know that turbo's hate restriction in the exhaust. The standard exhaust that most people run for NA BB's is dual 3" which gives about 14.14 sq" of flow area. To go to a single 4" you would be cutting that down to 12.56 sq" of area. If you went to the 5" you would have 19.63 sq". There is a reason the turbo has a 5" housing. Turbos pump a lot more air than NA engines. Just some food for thought.
 
bjkadron said:
I'm not a turbo genius, But I do know that turbo's hate restriction in the exhaust. The standard exhaust that most people run for NA BB's is dual 3" which gives about 14.14 sq" of flow area. To go to a single 4" you would be cutting that down to 12.56 sq" of area. If you went to the 5" you would have 19.63 sq". There is a reason the turbo has a 5" housing. Turbos pump a lot more air than NA engines. Just some food for thought.
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The reason guys reduce the exhaust down is to get the exhaust to the bottom of the car. A bodies don't have a bunch of room to sneak the exhaust out by the firewall & bellhousing area. There will probably only be 3 Feet of reduced exhaust at the most. Once the exhaust is at the bottom of the car at 4" he can SPLIT the exhaust into a DUAL 3 or 4" which should work just fine.

This is one of the reasons guys use Twin Turbo's instead of 1 bigger single................Most of the time it is easier to sneak a 3 or 3.5" Down pipe by the firewall...............

I went with Twins for this reason. I couldn't figure out how to get the exhaust out of the engine compartment without chopping the car up alot! I am using 3.5" Down pipes stepped up to 5" Home made Oval exhaust tips.
 
Mad Dart said:
The reason guys reduce the exhaust down is to get the exhaust to the bottom of the car. A bodies don't have a bunch of room to sneak the exhaust out by the firewall & bellhousing area. There will probably only be 3 Feet of reduced exhaust at the most. Once the exhaust is at the bottom of the car at 4" he can SPLIT the exhaust into a DUAL 3 or 4" which should work just fine.

This is one of the reasons guys use Twin Turbo's instead of 1 bigger single................Most of the time it is easier to sneak a 3 or 3.5" Down pipe by the firewall...............

I went with Twins for this reason. I couldn't figure out how to get the exhaust out of the engine compartment without chopping the car up alot! I am using 3.5" Down pipes stepped up to 5" Home made Oval exhaust tips.
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I think I can get the 5" down under the front of the engine and split it to 2.5-3 down the passenger side of the engine without to much problems. Cuda has 2.5 right now out the back thru series 40 flowmasters and original square tips. I do however have a 3.5" setup with Race Bullet mufflers too. I may need to cut the passenger side inner fender and run it out there and over the front tire. Then I could route it back thru the inner fender where you would cut for a fenderwell header setup and drop it right beside the engine/bellhousing. I will have to wait for the 400 and get it in the engine bay to determine how this will be done.
 
Mad Dart said:
The reason guys reduce the exhaust down is to get the exhaust to the bottom of the car. A bodies don't have a bunch of room to sneak the exhaust out by the firewall & bellhousing area.
Click to expand...

CUUDAK said:
I think I can get the 5" down under the front of the engine and split it to 2.5-3 down the passenger side of the engine without to much problems. Cuda has 2.5 right now out the back thru series 40 flowmasters and original square tips. I do however have a 3.5" setup with Race Bullet mufflers too. I may need to cut the passenger side inner fender and run it out there and over the front tire. Then I could route it back thru the inner fender where you would cut for a fenderwell header setup and drop it right beside the engine/bellhousing. I will have to wait for the 400 and get it in the engine bay to determine how this will be done.
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Yeah, I know how hard it is to Package turbos and all the associated stuff. That is why I decided against them for my current builds. I was just pointing out that is a lot of flow difference. You might also consider "flat" tubing (square or round) that could just go under the K frame. But the feasibility of this depends on what your plans are for the rest of it.. Because you don't want to make a transition like that more than once. Sorry If I came of as rude.. I just wanted to help you make this cool project turn out as nice as possible.
 
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