Turbo 383 in a A-body Barracuda

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I am keeping an eye on this for futue reference if you know what I mean :snakeman:

These turbo threads are addictive! You and Maddart are nuckin' futs.
 
Notice the pic of the K-frame?? I chopped the lip off where the oil pan goes for clearance. Of course I migged all of the factory seams.
 
-8AN Fuel filter came in.. Got it for $16.99 plus $2.99 for the clamps and shipping. Good thing is I can go to the local parts house and replace the "Wix" filter.

O'yeah,
The best part is its made hear in Texas!! Not China!!
 

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K-frame is in and will finish installing the rest of the front suspension tomorrow. Then the mock-up block goes in to begin fabbing hotside. Will post pics tomorrow evening.
 
Ok,
Front-end is done except for the D@mn Sway-bar. End-links are gonna have to be really short or else they will hit the calipers:angry7:.

LoL!!!
Look at those "REDNECK" Brimbo calipers!!

Dropping the mock-up block in it in the morning then the fun/frustration begins...:cheers:
 

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Ok,
Front-end is done except for the D@mn Sway-bar. End-links are gonna have to be really short or else they will hit the calipers:angry7:.

Why don't you swap the spindles side to side to put the caliper on the back side of the rotor? Then you shouldn't have any interference with the sway-bar end links.
 
Why don't you swap the spindles side to side to put the caliper on the back side of the rotor? Then you shouldn't have any interference with the sway-bar end links.

I am a bit skeptical on that. I think I will get the suspension loaded with everything mocked up and see where it sits and go from there.
 
Why don't you swap the spindles side to side to put the caliper on the back side of the rotor? Then you shouldn't have any interference with the sway-bar end links.

I am thinking the same thing on that one.

Aren't the calipers on the back side of the rotor stock? I know my 67 & 70 Dart are on the back.
 
Yes, the Spindles are symmetrical. just undo the two bolts that hold the steering arm/LBJ on and the UBJ and swap sides. It will turn out like this and give you a bunch more clearance. the only thing is sometimes this stretches the stock a-body brake hoses, and you have to switch to those from a 79 volare or thereabouts. But it looks like yours should be fine as they are behind the front suspension rather than in front.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showpost.php?p=1101508&postcount=152

Edit: see last picture
 
Then I got out the frick'n bodysaw out and went to work!! I will reconfigure the inner apron when I get done with the downpipe. I can shrink & stretch a piece to fill in the butchery... When i'm done it will look like it came that way. I have plenty of clearance to get the 5" downpipe turned down towards the torsion bar. At the bottom of the 5" DP will split to 2 3" mandrels. Right side will follow original route out the back and the left will crossover behind the bellhousing and 90 back into its original route out the back................................................. Of course this is all speculation at this point!! LoL!!

Looks like I have a bit more room along side of the block than I expected. Will see how the 3"logs are gonna turn out running into the T6 flange.

More pics,
 

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WOW! So yours isn't quite the barely cut build as mad darts? you may want to look on into re-enforcing the shock upper mount since you just cut off most of its support.
 
Damn............. I guess you are going ape shitttt!!

Are you going to have enough clearance to run the 5" Pipe through the torsion bar area or are you going to just dump it right there? The Max pipe I could get thru there was 3.5" and that is with a A904 Trans.
 
WOW! So yours isn't quite the barely cut build as mad darts? you may want to look on into re-enforcing the shock upper mount since you just cut off most of its support.

Not with a 5" DP and a Bigblock!! Not a Novice here. I have raced 8 second 1/4 mile cars for quite a while
I have already come to realize its gonna have to have a cage in it anyway so I will be running a tube from the front outside of the frame rail across the top of the shock tower and to the firewall with a 6" plate. Then on the inside of the firewall another 6" plate and that will be tied into the downbars of the hoop. It will be for my safety more than being NHRA legal. I will install a custom cage in it that will follow the roof and drop near the rear of the 1/4 glass. It'll be sweet!
 
Damn............. I guess you are going ape shitttt!!

Are you going to have enough clearance to run the 5" Pipe through the torsion bar area or are you going to just dump it right there? The Max pipe I could get thru there was 3.5" and that is with a A904 Trans.

Its gonna drop around 6"s them split to two 3" mandrels. Gotta notch the 5" in the 90 and change the angle a bit. Also oval out the lower where it meets the split to the two 3"..

Cutting the apron hurt but at least I wasn't the first. At some point it had fenderwell headers and that area was patched. And AMD's got'm!

Its gonna be a real PITA! I hope its worth it.
 
Not with a 5" DP and a Bigblock!! Not a Novice here. I have raced 8 second 1/4 mile cars for quite a while
I have already come to realize its gonna have to have a cage in it anyway so I will be running a tube from the front outside of the frame rail across the top of the shock tower and to the firewall with a 6" plate. Then on the inside of the firewall another 6" plate and that will be tied into the downbars of the hoop. It will be for my safety more than being NHRA legal. I will install a custom cage in it that will follow the roof and drop near the rear of the 1/4 glass. It'll be sweet!

That should work nicely! How many points are we talking here?
 

Bracket for the turbo,
 

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Well, the custom Diamond racing pistons are paid for($902) so I should have them in 10 days! Thats pistons, pins, locks and ring set.
Me and my pops started the hotside today. Wow this is tight! Building 3" logs as well as 3" crossover. This is the first setup. I might change them at a later date. The entire hotside will be wrapped with DEI Header wrap with the black silicone spray. I will paint the hotside with VHT 2000 degree flat black paint first after I get them blasted.
the pipes look a bit rough where they enter the T6 flange but we are gonna make a sleeve there for the transition. Should look pretty good once completed. The logs are gonna be a chore. Hopefully they will be ok??

More pics,
 

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