Turn signal switch '64 Valiant

[BobW]

I'm trying to figure out the power path for the turn signals and how the switch works, here's where I am:
Power is activated to the flasher with the ignition on.
Flasher senses a load when left or right is activated, connecting to the bulbs and that circuit flashes.
The activated lead from the brake switch, when pedal is depressed, allows that side to flash rather than illuminate.

My current status:
I have nothing when the switch is activated with the flasher installed.
If I jump the flasher plug I can get either side to illuminate, but I have to jiggle the switch lever, and get no indication on the dash light, bulb works.
I'm assuming the switch is bad. Is there another way to verify this?

For replacement I see Summit at $130, Rock Auto at $78, and Daniel Stern at $100.
I've used products from Daniel Stern in the past.
Any preferences?

 

[cudamark]

I would do a bit more diagnosis. With a test light or meter, see where the power is going into the switch, and then where it's coming out (or not) in all positions. The switch interrupts the brake light circuit on one side when the brake pedal is depressed and the switch is turned to either side. When you step on the brake, power goes into the switch and back out to the brake light(s). Juice from the flasher should be at the switch whenever the key is in the on position. There is power all the time (even with the key off) for the horn circuit. Testing that circuit might make the horn honk, so, keep that in mind! Usually the first sign that the switch is old and close to failing is when the cancel cam breaks. The cam itself can be replaced. Sometimes that even helps make the switch work again if everything gets put back together properly and the plastic isn't all warped.

 

[BobW]

I have juice to the flasher, but not through it. I only get power if I put a jumper across the flasher socket. tried with 3 known working flashers. Even then I get no dash indicator.
I need to pull the wheel & inspect the switch.

 

[cudamark]

Bypass the flasher so it has steady power to the turn signal switch. Then you can test what the switch is doing. If the switch isn't getting power, there won't be anything going out to the turn signals or dash indicators.

 

[BobW]

Bypass the flasher so it has steady power to the turn signal switch. Then you can test what the switch is doing. If the switch isn't getting power, there won't be anything going out to the turn signals or dash indicators.

I've done that, the signal light up left & right, but I have to jiggle the switch. When I get achance I'll pul the wheel and look at the switch, maybe clean the contacts.
I still don't have the dash indicator, I'll have to chase those wires through the harness, make sure there are no breaks.
Whoever started putting this car together spliced wires with lamp cord and wire nuts!
I've run new 12 gauge for the starter/solonoid/dash and alternator leads, bypassing the burnt bulkhead connections with a new grommet through the firewall. All soldered ends.
Maybe tomorrow I'll have time while the storm goes up the coast.

 

[Charrlie_S]

Hey Bob. I'm going to get a switch from Dan , for my '64. I need to replace my switch. Where in Central Fl are you?

 

[BobW]

Hey Bob. I'm going to get a switch from Dan , for my '64. I need to replace my switch. Where in Central Fl are you?

I'm in Astatula, outside of Tavares.
I did email him and got a quick reply, I will probably get on from him once I'm sure I need it. Have to pull the wheel first!

 

[Charrlie_S]

You shouldn't need to pull the wheel to diagnose the problem. You can check everything at the wiring connector, where the wires exit the column.

Your not that far from me. Message me, and I'll send you my phone number. Maybe we can get together.

 

[BobW]

So a post in this thread, LED signal lights on a 74 Dart solved most of my problem.
I've done LED conversions in 5 or 6 cars & trucks, plus a few motorcycles, but this is my first Mopar.
Never had an issue with the LED flasher, but switching the leads solved the blinker problem.
Still don't have the indicator light working, have to check the harness to see where the wires splice in for the dash.
Still need to pull the wheel to check the switch, it still acts like it not making good contact.

 

[cudamark]

I didn't realize this was an LED conversion. Yeah, bulbs and flashers are polarized. The have to go a certain way to work.

 

[cudamark]

The left turn indicator wire leaving the connector and heading into the main harness should be a light green and the right indicator wire should be tan. They should be ganged with their respective front turn signal wires there at the connector. From there the wires go into the main harness and split off in different directions. The indicator wires go to the main circuit board plug and from there to the bulb sockets. Check those pins on the circuit board for looseness and corrosion. Also, make sure the circuit board doesn't have any breaks in it.

 

[BobW]

The left turn indicator wire leaving the connector and heading into the main harness should be a light green and the right indicator wire should be tan. They should be ganged with their respective front turn signal wires there at the connector. From there the wires go into the main harness and split off in different directions. The indicator wires go to the main circuit board plug and from there to the bulb sockets. Check those pins on the circuit board for looseness and corrosion. Also, make sure the circuit board doesn't have any breaks in it.

OK, I finally got back to this, the tan & lt green wires do have power to the instrument panel connector. Each one goes to either side of the bulb holder, telling me the incandescent system had enough resistance to act as a ground on the non-selected turn signal side.
With the LED bulbs it actually bled through the indicator lamp and flashed dimly on the non-selected side.
I tried diodes to try to isolate the feed back which worked, but then there was no ground for the indicator lamp.
I ended up soldering leads on 2 small push in style indicator bulbs and connecting to the tan & lt green leads which I unplugged from the connector, and grounds to a screw on the panel. The bulbs fit into the indicator light opening. heat shrink insulated the soldered connections.
In retrospect I could have modified the panel bulb holder by removing the panel connection tabs, drilling small holes in the back of the housing, soldering leads to the modified tabs and connecting the circuit to the red power wire coming from the flasher. Maybe next time! ;)
Anyway, I now have working LED's in all 4 corners and instrument panel turn signal indication!

 

[BobW]

Finally took the car out for a 10 mile test ride. As mentioned earlier the flasher switch is very positive for left turns, but sketchy on right turn engagement. I have to hold it in place for right turn signalling.
Before the road test I did pull the wheel, removed the canceling assembly and gasket and was able to spray electronic cleaner on the contacts. I did not attempt to move the switch.
Is there adjustment in the switch position that might improve positive engagement for right turns?
Or do I need a new switch?

 

[cudamark]

The cancel cam holds the switch position when you move the lever. That cam is replaceable with an aftermarket one (assuming they're still available). If not, it's new switch time.

 

[BobW]

The cancel cam holds the switch position when you move the lever. That cam is replaceable with an aftermarket one (assuming they're still available). If not, it's new switch time.

Got the cancel cam, solved the problem. Thanks for the help!

 

[cudamark]