**Twin Turbo 67 Dart Project**

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03ramit1 said:
on my 75 I pulled off the chrome/stainless trim (mine is really oxidized so I don't know that it is) then there is a rubber cord (like a big rubber band) you pull that out and then push on the glass and pull it out of the seal. I'll see if I can get you a link for it. So you can have pics give me a couple hours to get home and I'll post it for ya.
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Sounds easy enough.......Go ahead and post the pics if you could.
 
Mad, Be sure and keep the rubber strip that comes out of it,When you get the new windshield gasket it doesn't come with one.
 
ace26 said:
Mad, Be sure and keep the rubber strip that comes out of it,When you get the new windshield gasket it doesn't come with one.
Click to expand...

Well I just found out that 67 is the oddest year for windshield trim etc.
There us no ROPE on a 67 from what I understand. Been messin with it for an hour. Gunna have the glass guy do it!
 
Don't know if it's anything like my Barracuda's windshield gasket, but if it has the plastic chrome strip in it (might not look like that anymore, might be black or gray), then there's a chevy side moulding that fits perfectly.
 
64physhy said:
Don't know if it's anything like my Barracuda's windshield gasket, but if it has the plastic chrome strip in it (might not look like that anymore, might be black or gray), then there's a chevy side moulding that fits perfectly.
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It depends if the trim looks like an F or not. 67 Dart's take an F trim. I found a Mopar guy on Ebay that says he has a GM Trim that will work with the Mopar Corner pieces. Hopefully I will know soon. I left the guy a message.
 
That engine bay gets more crowded by the day lol! Great work, and I look forward to seeing your finished product.
 
Wow, what an amazing project you have going. A lot of time and dedication going into this! I wish I had half the knowledge, skills, and resources you did! Looking great though, can't wait to see it finished!
 
not that familiar with NHRA rules anymore, maybe a stupid question, but in order to run 8.50 in the 1/4, doesnt the cage have to be sfi 25, and im pretty sure requires funny car style cage.....in order to be sfi 25
i tried to find the rules on line, no success

by the way, awsome build, great work

Dodge29
 
dodge29 said:
not that familiar with NHRA rules anymore, maybe a stupid question, but in order to run 8.50 in the 1/4, doesnt the cage have to be sfi 25, and im pretty sure requires funny car style cage.....in order to be sfi 25
i tried to find the rules on line, no success

by the way, awsome build, great work

Dodge29
Click to expand...

My buddy pete who is finishing off the cage knows the rules, I don't!
The funny car cage you are talking about I believe is good to 7.50 or 200mph.
If your car has the factory firewall you don't need a dash bar and dont need to tie the forward bars to the A pillar bars for 8.5 certification. Thus is what was explained to me yesterday at Barona Raceway. I sm assuming it is correct information.
 
to run 10.50 and slower you need to have the main hoop, trunk bars, the main hoop cross bar and the ones that go to the trans tunnel and a door bar. To go 8.50 and slower you add a halo bar, A pillar bars, and a main hoop to A piller floor bar (if the rockers or floor are modified) and like mad dart said the dash bar if the firewall is modified. (The way I see it you have it apart just add one. It will make it stronger) then the forward bars I'm not sure of when they are required, but again your in there and have it apart might as well add them. The "funny car" cage is needed once you go faster than 8.50. I don't plan on running that fast and have not read much about it. If you need to know the rules grab a rule book. They are only 10.00 or so off of the NHRA website. But if possible I would wait and get a 2011 rule book in a few months.
 
you may be right, the car im adding cage to for a friend is going to run 7.70.....we are rebuilding the cage to update the car and installing a funny car portion on the drive side...with have to pass sfi25
Dodge29
 
I've been lurking on this thread for a while and it's great seeing this Dart come together. Nice work!!!!
 
dodge29 said:
you may be right, the car im adding cage to for a friend is going to run 7.70.....we are rebuilding the cage to update the car and installing a funny car portion on the drive side...with have to pass sfi25
Dodge29
Click to expand...

I'm not sure when it has to be sfi spec. But what I stated should be correct. I'll doublecheck on saterday, when I have my rule book in front of me. I'll also see when it needs to be sfi spec as well.
 
Well I just got the Extreme Velocity Carb Hat last night. It creates a whole other problem.
I have to re-route the intake tract because the front of the hat hits the top of the carb bowl float adjusting hardware and will not sit flush on the carb. If I changed the hood I would have enough clearance to run a spacer or the PRO series hat.......I will not go there!!
While I am at it I may make 2 different intake tracts. 1 with the Extreme Velocity and the other with the DUAL Carb Hat that I already have. I am hearing conflicting strories of HOW GOOD the EV Hat is supposed to be. Ryan at Shady Dell just built a Turbo Small Block and he used the EV Hat VS a Home made hat and on the Dyno the Home Made Hat out performed the EV Hat BIG TIME from what he is saying.

His Engine made alot of power NA and the compression is a whopping 11.3:1 running between 14-17lbs of boost. Motor made 678HP/590TQ Naturally aspirated.

His base engine build is a pretty big one at that!

Both of his set ups have NO INTERCOOLER!

The S480 made 1040 HP @ 14.8 PSI
The Forced Inductions GT91 Made 1197 @ 14.3 PSI With Meth Injection

His build is right here......
http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=23208.475
 
Looking good Louise. That makes me cringe. My dad is having a whipple charger put on his motor for his buggy. When it gets back we are going to have to find a way to cram ten pounds of **** in to a five pound box.

Keep up the good work. When your done you are going to make them Viper guys wish they never met you. LOL
 
Haven't posted anything in a while........

Here is the intake tract. My calculations were right on the money accept the Carb Hat has got me stumped. The Extreme Velocity hat needs a spacer to clear the front of the carb float adjuster. I will need to add a 1" spacer under the carb hat for it to clear and then put a HOOD SCOOP on the car which I really dont want to do!!!

Soooooooo, I am going to make a SECOND intake tract using the DUAL INLET carb bonnet which will clear the STOCK HOOD for sure and take BOTH intake tracts to the DYNO. Which ever one runs the best will be the one that I go with. I am going to order the tubing tomorrow and some new BLOW OFF VALVE flanges so I can weld them onto the second tract without buying new Blow off valves. This will end up costing me another $150.00 butt if the Dual Intake tract works better than it will save me the cost of a Hood Scoop!

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hey, nice built as i've said before... instead of using a 1inch spacer is there anyway you could cut a hole in the hat where carb float adjuster is and weld like a dimple in. (wrong words) hard to explain what i'm thinking. it wouldn't barely affect flow and would allow carb hat to sit down tight
 
racerkilla said:
hey, nice built as i've said before... instead of using a 1inch spacer is there anyway you could cut a hole in the hat where carb float adjuster is and weld like a dimple in. (wrong words) hard to explain what i'm thinking. it wouldn't barely affect flow and would allow carb hat to sit down tight
Click to expand...

Yes I have thought about that also! I still think that it will hit the hood though. I have a 1/2" spacer under the carb now to simulate a NOS Plate just in case I need a Shot of JUICE to spool the turbo's. I could take that out and do a notch in the bottom of the hat and maybe it would fix the issue. I will check it out tomorrow.
 
Mad Dart said:
Well I just got the Extreme Velocity Carb Hat last night. It creates a whole other problem.
I have to re-route the intake tract because the front of the hat hits the top of the carb bowl float adjusting hardware and will not sit flush on the carb. If I changed the hood I would have enough clearance to run a spacer or the PRO series hat.......I will not go there!!
While I am at it I may make 2 different intake tracts. 1 with the Extreme Velocity and the other with the DUAL Carb Hat that I already have. I am hearing conflicting strories of HOW GOOD the EV Hat is supposed to be. Ryan at Shady Dell just built a Turbo Small Block and he used the EV Hat VS a Home made hat and on the Dyno the Home Made Hat out performed the EV Hat BIG TIME from what he is saying.

His Engine made alot of power NA and the compression is a whopping 11.3:1 running between 14-17lbs of boost. Motor made 678HP/590TQ Naturally aspirated.

His base engine build is a pretty big one at that!

Both of his set ups have NO INTERCOOLER!

The S480 made 1040 HP @ 14.8 PSI
The Forced Inductions GT91 Made 1197 @ 14.3 PSI With Meth Injection

His build is right here......
http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=23208.475
Click to expand...

Last I spoke with Wendy at SDCE the purple Duster does not have an intercooler. Have read in several places that intercooling is not necessary with Meth injection...
 
lookin good man I wish I was as far along as you are. Soon though. Gotta build my seat mount. And finish the cage. Then the motor will be going in. Unfortunately it will only be temperary. It will have to come out to rebuild the front suspension.
 
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