**Twin Turbo 67 Dart Project**

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DODGESTRIKE said:
I don't know, but I found this one probably you have already found it http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/....html?osCsid=a69634eaa5f48289be47ca8f7c6e9228
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Yes I seen that one. I think I need to find one without all the holes in it..

Here are somemore, I got a shout out to this guy to see if he can just make me one the has the same pattern as the Damper so it would just bolt right on. Guy is in the UK but I cant find anyone in the states so far.

http://trigger-wheels.com/store/contents/en-uk/d5.html

Trying to do something like this here.....

http://www.planetcampbell.us/TriggerWheel/Triggerwheel_Installation.htm
 
DODGESTRIKE said:
looks good ,I liked the diyautotune to mount it in front of the damper like this http://www.diyautotune.com/diysotm/diysotm_2010-01.html I'm aiming for COP but right now its just on planning stage ,you are already doing it let us know how it works.
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That looks good! I overlooked on how it was being mounted. I may need to hog out the center hole because on my Damper it sticks out a bit and that wheel has 8 mounting holes. The Mopar Small Block has only 6 holes in the Damper...........

Oh and I forgot to mention I will be going COP "Coil on Plug" also. I am going to buy some D585 Coils and make my own brackets for them to mount inside the car on the firewall or up under the fender somewhere.

Thanks for the link, all the help I can get is good!
 
Try posting up on cragslist and see if someone with a CNC plasma cutter or water jet could make one for you. Can't be that hard of a part to fab up. Then there would be nothing for you to do but bolt it on.
 
It the wheel posted in the planet cambell link is what you want for a tooth pattern you could copy his dxf file and use it to cut down the cost of having one made. If I had my machine I would just cut it for you. Just to see if it would work.
 
I already posted this once back in May when you asked about it, but here's what I did to mine to run the MS2. Still trouble free.
-Jon
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fenderman33 said:
I already posted this once back in May when you asked about it, but here's what I did to mine to run the MS2. Still trouble free.
-Jon
attachment.php
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Yeah I remember that picture. What are you using for your cam signal? Is yours a single coil set up? Batch fire or sequential?
I don't have a steel crank pulley so I will be mounting a ringed wheel like yours to an aluminum pulley. I need to order a 36:1 wheel and take the center out on a lathe to 4.350" or so. I will be welding tabs to the pulley probably 6 and drilling and tapping the wheel to bolt it on somehow.
 
Couldn't you sandwich it between the damper and pulley, with a 1/4" or 3/8" spacer between the damper and wheel? The spacer could even be welded to the wheel. You would have to space the rest of your pulleys to line up, but seems like a fairly easy option.
 
64physhy said:
Couldn't you sandwich it between the damper and pulley, with a 1/4" or 3/8" spacer between the damper and wheel? The spacer could even be welded to the wheel. You would have to space the rest of your pulleys to line up, but seems like a fairly easy option.
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Not on a SBM...... when using a Mechanical Water Pump anyway's. The Damper is 7.25" and the wheel needed there would need to be bigger 8.25" If my thinking is correct. It for sure would hit the water pump bolts etc. Not enough clearance. I called Brian yesterday and had him measure it.
 
Why does it have to stick out? If it's the same diameter of the pulley a bracket could be made to place the sensor close enough without contact (assuming you pulley has the space like in the pic above)

And why does it need to stick out .5 all the way arround? I would think that .125 or 1/8th would be enough that would mean the ring would only need to be a 7.5 in diameter.
 
03ramit1 said:
Why does it have to stick out? If it's the same diameter of the pulley a bracket could be made to place the sensor close enough without contact (assuming you pulley has the space like in the pic above)

And why does it need to stick out .5 all the way arround? I would think that .125 or 1/8th would be enough that would mean the ring would only need to be a 7.5 in diameter.
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I am just trying to get an idea of what is needed to make it work. All your points are valid, but the engine is not in my possession to verify what will work. Headed out there as I type this to get it figured out.
 
Im just brainstorming idea. In case it's not something thought of. Just trying to do my little part to help
 
03ramit1 said:
Im just brainstorming idea. In case it's not something thought of. Just trying to do my little part to help
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I appreciate that!

So your thinking of using a 7.5" wheel will clear the water pump. I will also be able to sandwich the wheel between the damper and pulley. So I will be ordering a 36:1 wheel and machining out the center to 2.125" and drilling 6 holes to line up for the damper bolt pattern. Longest part of this process will be waiting for parts.

Now back to my regular job!
 
I went out to the Machine Shop today and picked up what I need to build the Crank Trigger.

I found some other issues that I needed to investigate. The Distributor Backing Plate that holds the Sensors is loose and wobbly. I checked a standard distributor and it was solid as a rock. The slop to me is pretty bad when wiggling the backing plate with 2 fingers it will move the sensor away form the trigger at least 1/8 ", it is a concern that I have and also the pick up wire Sheathing is split, it was this way from when I bought it used. Also I looked at the cap really good and the protector that goes on the back of the Pin inside the distributor is missing on a few pins and other are chipped off. It looks like the spark was jumping to the edge of the pin in the cap right on the edge and it just Melted the back of the protector away. I can see nothing in the distributor itself so I don't know where the stuff went.

If this is the case and the cap got progressivly worse as we went on, could this be why it had a miss?? IDK ??
Could the backing plate slop cause a sperratic miss?? IDK ??

Going to call Fast in the morning and see if that backing plate is supposed to move at all. I would think not, but again...... IDK??

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WmmdJkT4ggQ"]Fast Dual Sync Dizzy Slop - YouTube[/ame]

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View attachment phpDfC4RYPM.jpg
 
That cap needs to be changed! Looks like the rotor was hitting the contacts? Is there excessive side movement in the distributor shaft? There could have been irratic spark flying around the inside of the cap causing a misfire condition. I don't like black caps cause it is hard to see carbon build-up that also causes spark to jump around.

Just Sayn'
 
CUUDAK said:
That cap needs to be changed! Looks like the rotor was hitting the contacts? Is there excessive side movement in the distributor shaft? There could have been irratic spark flying around the inside of the cap causing a misfire condition. I don't like black caps cause it is hard to see carbon build-up that also causes spark to jump around.

Just Sayn'
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Yes it is obvious that the cap needs to be changed! No there is no side movement in the shaft. With guys having problems with rotor phasing and it being up to 30-40* off from the correct pin inside the cap, there very well could be spark jump going on inside the cap causing fireworks to go off and miss like all get out, I don't put it past it one bit, I should have drilled a 5/8 hole in the cap to see WTF was going on in there. The Tuner is blaming all this on the Computer and is telling me to just buy a Haltec?? Throwing Cubic Dollars at a problem is not the way to fix anything. Not going down that road until I find the issue. It could be something small like this causing a world of head aches.

I talked to someone that was there when it was on the Dyno and they said........

it started out good with no misses when it was first running Brian hit the throttle a few times and it clearly was not missing at all, the more the tuner fd' with it the worse the problem got..........
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I am not saying that it was his fault, if the cap was getting progressively worse or the Slop in the Dizzy started up, it could be that also.

To me that Fast Dual Sync with that slop and the other issues with phasing and spark jump, is a Piece of chitttt.
 
1) Get yourself another tuner,that guy is a moron.
2)Sounds like I was right about the cap. Try to get a non black cap next time.It will aid in seeing carbon streaks.I see some deposits on some of the pins,perhaps thats where your missing material went. Hi voltage will simply vaporise stuff,so maybe not?
3) That base plate is waaay wobbly. If you need a locked out distributor,I'd fix that sucker good by screwing it down.
 
I'm not using any cam signal. Single coil, magnum distributor & wires, batch fired.
If you need someone with some real megasquirt experience get in touch with Peter Florance. www.pftuning.com
You can PM me for his contact info, but when it comes to megasquirt he's the man.
-Jon


Mad Dart said:
Yeah I remember that picture. What are you using for your cam signal? Is yours a single coil set up? Batch fire or sequential?
I don't have a steel crank pulley so I will be mounting a ringed wheel like yours to an aluminum pulley. I need to order a 36:1 wheel and take the center out on a lathe to 4.350" or so. I will be welding tabs to the pulley probably 6 and drilling and tapping the wheel to bolt it on somehow.
Click to expand...
 
needsaresto said:
1) Get yourself another tuner,that guy is a moron.
2)Sounds like I was right about the cap. Try to get a non black cap next time.It will aid in seeing carbon streaks.I see some deposits on some of the pins,perhaps thats where your missing material went. Hi voltage will simply vaporise stuff,so maybe not?
3) That base plate is waaay wobbly. If you need a locked out distributor,I'd fix that sucker good by screwing it down.
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The base plate is already screwed down. I don't think I'm Gunna use the Fast Distributer. I have several Mopar distributors that are remans so I'm gunna convert one over to a hall sensor pick up and grind off 7 teeth on the wheel and use it strictly for the cam signal, of course locking it out. I was reading and in 1988 some 318's pick ups were single "Hall" sensors. I found some pick ups on Rock Auto that seem to fit what I need to do it. Going to hit up napa in the morning and see what they can get delivered tomorrow. The complete pick up assembly should bolt right into my factory dizzy. Doing this and setting up the crank trigger should give rock solid signals to the MS3.
 
Well, I just now got off the phone with the Tech Department at Fast.

In no way should the backing plate move at all, it should be fixed with no wobbling. He did say if it is infact moving, since the Crank Trigger is the TOP Wheel with the Green Band it would cause a Misfire for dang sure because it is the furthest away from the wobble and the gap will increase the most there. These sensors are supposed to be in a Fixed Position with no "PLATE MOVEMENT" at all.
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What is the fix I asked him, he said send it in and we will take a look at it. This one is going in the TRASH CAN!!
 
Mad Dart said:
Well, I just now got off the phone with the Tech Department at Fast.



What is the fix I asked him, he said send it in and we will take a look at it. This one is going in the TRASH CAN!!
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Where is it made? Hmmm china maybe...
 
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