U.S Car Tool sub frame connectors install

-
76orangewagon

76orangewagon

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2009
Messages
3,377
Reaction score
401
Location
Akron
I wanted to post these seperate from my Member Restoration since there has been several discussions and questions regarding these specific Sub-frame connectors, I've read about fitment issues and how people have had go grind all day to get them to fit properly. These fit GREAT, if they dont fit on your car properly then its your car that has the problem not the part, I cut off the front lip to get them to fit tighter to the frame and did minimal grinding again to get closer only in a couple areas and cut 3" inches off the rear but these were all personal preferences to the look I was trying to achieve, So John from U.S Car Tool if you're read... this great product !!! To everyone else, dont be hesitant to give these a try they look terrific and give you that factory installed look.
 

Attachments

  • DSC_0119.jpg
    104.2 KB · Views: 1,568
  • DSC_0011 (2).jpg
    58.1 KB · Views: 1,594
  • DSC_0003 (3).jpg
    78.2 KB · Views: 1,717
  • DSC_0124.jpg
    80.3 KB · Views: 1,774
  • DSC_0125.jpg
    63.9 KB · Views: 1,695
  • DSC_0126.jpg
    56.4 KB · Views: 1,559
  • DSC_0127.jpg
    48.5 KB · Views: 2,087
  • DSC_0131.jpg
    53.7 KB · Views: 2,127
  • DSC_0136.jpg
    85.1 KB · Views: 1,754
  • DSC_0143 (2).jpg
    83.1 KB · Views: 2,341
They look great. I'm still confused on hows the best way to install them, on the wheels or on rotis' or other.
 
I will definately be looking to them for my body style.Very nice and your work looks beautiful.
 
RedFish said:
They look great. I'm still confused on hows the best way to install them, on the wheels or on rotis' or other.
Click to expand...
Definitely the rotisserie, I flipped the car on its roof, got on a mik crate or two and used a 50lb piece of steel to hold it down, made the slight modifications and tack welded them in place, once that was complete, rolled the car sideways to get a good weld angle and went to town very staight forward and pretty easy. good luck and hope this helps
 
How do you know the car isn't flexed and the doors will still like up right though ? No intent to start an argument just puzzled.
 
They look great and you did a great job installing them. I feel these are the best ties available. They are strong, lite weight, and look factory. Great finish with the seam sealer too. toolman
 
RedFish said:
How do you know the car isn't flexed and the doors will still like up right though ? No intent to start an argument just puzzled.
Click to expand...
Good Question, before I cut out any panels for replacement I took measurements from various body locations and check during and after the work is done for fitment, same goes once it was being lifted on the rotisserie, since theres a new floor, trunk & extensions, rear crossmember, rad support, inner fenders, and upper control arm's reinforced + the connectors I now feel confident that the flexing days are behind me. Thanks for the question I'm sure others were/are wondering the same thing, I just skipped the boring parts of the build and post the good stuff.
 
RedFish said:
How do you know the car isn't flexed and the doors will still like up right though ? No intent to start an argument just puzzled.
Click to expand...


I installed them the same way. I put door bars in the door jambs to keep everything tight. (At least that's what I was hoping for!)

This may be a good question for US Car Tool. I believe the pictures on the US Car Tool website do show the frame connectors being installed on the Rotisserie.
 
John from US Cartools is a member here. Hopefully he will speak up and enlighten us.
Your car looks great!!!! Hopefully mine will look the same. Mine are still in the box. Thanks for posting.
 
The nice thing about the Car Tool ones is that they don't enter the floor. No holes to cut.
 
What do you think of installing these on a car on a lift?I am thinking if you raised it by the rear axle and front lower control arms if would be as normally flexed.
 
That would be perfect as long as your chassis is not sagging a bit already. If you weld them in as it sets it will be that way permanently. It would be great to set it up on a frame machine and have it checked before welding. Mike
 
72ScampTramp said:
Can you show some picks of the inside of the floor please?
Click to expand...
72ScampTramp,
I know your question was answered by a fellow member about not having to cut into the floor pan but heres a pics of the inside of the floor pan anyway, just a little burnt primer easy to fix. hope this helps. by far, this is the best looking sub-frame connector on the market, we'll worth the extra effort once installed (IMO).
 

Attachments

  • DSC_0151 (2).jpg
    52 KB · Views: 1,300
To revive a old thread......here's a video of the install on early A's. Shows the beginning of the fitting and 76 Orange Wagon's photos show the finished product. Hey guys, what's your take on welding them solid vs. the stitch welding method pictured. For adequate
strength, the stitch welding method should work fine. tmm
(video at bottom of the page. http://store.uscartool.com/63-66-mopar-a-body-frame-connectors.html
 
toolmanmike said:
To revive a old thread......here's a video of the install on early A's. Shows the beginning of the fitting and 76 Orange Wagon's photos show the finished product. Hey guys, what's your take on welding them solid vs. the stitch welding method pictured. For adequate
strength, the stitch welding method should work fine. tmm
(video at bottom of the page. http://store.uscartool.com/63-66-mopar-a-body-frame-connectors.html
Click to expand...

I worked years as a welder for a semi trailer manufacturer. When I asked why some areas were not welded solid I was told that it was a safety precaution. They said that if an area of a continuous weld was to fail, it would cause the separation of the entire piece over time. By stitch welding 4" on 4" off 4" on, it would limit the breakdown of structural integrity if any single weld failed.
 
1967 'cuda said:
I worked years as a welder for a semi trailer manufacturer. When I asked why some areas were not welded solid I was told that it was a safety precaution. They said that if an area of a continuous weld was to fail, it would cause the separation of the entire piece over time. By stitch welding 4" on 4" off 4" on, it would limit the breakdown of structural integrity if any single weld failed.
Click to expand...

Interesting. Good info. Makes sense to me.


Good welds will hold long after the metal it is welded to failed. So more welds are not going to help.
 
Another factory I worked at built seat frames for the automakers. They would run tests with machinery designed to repeatedly stress welded assemblies. The equipment would run day and night, simulating the amount of wear and tear that would accumulate over years of use.

They looked for optimum weld placement for the most longevity and where to design in flexibility (if needed to negate too much stress in other areas).

I know that every part made isn't engineered to perfection. But most companies that make parts for the automotive industry will spend a ton of money trying to design against breakage because of the cost of liability claims.

I'm not a structural engineer but from the designs that I've been familiar with I would tend to believe that a stitched weld would work best on these connectors.
 
Continuous heating from one end to the other will likely draw/bow the heck out of the material too.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top