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RogerRamRod

RogerRamRod

The Older I Get, The Faster I Was
FABO Gold Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2011
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Location
Chesapeake VA
I think I've decided I would rather hammer my nuts paper thin with a leather mallet over working on my wife's PT Cruiser.
 
LOL. I get it. That is exactly how I feel about working on my mother in laws 97 olds. I had to change her fuel pump two weeks ago. Of course the tank was near full.....
 
Of course it was, but you could have siphoned it into your tank and said that's the cost of a free job.
 
made the girlfriend sell her jaguar x-type for the same reason. 2 weeks after we sold it the fuel pump went out. 6 hour job. step 11 Remove the rear subframe
 
Earlier this spring I just got done changing a heater core in a Dakota, which requires dropping the column, removing the seats and dash, and THEN removing the heater box, or at least pulling it most of way out
 
Reasons like that is why I won't ever buy a new car again. Old American iron for me. My 07 caliber had the alternator pulley go out. 76k miles. Dodge don't make it but they'll sell me 700 buck alternator. No thanks. Napa had they pulley for 60 bucks. Then promptly sold the car
 
My daughter had a Toyota Celica GT that was a pretty good car. The PS pump went bad, and I told her I'd change it. You couldn't even see it. I had to take out the plastic inner wheel liner and the plastic liner under the engine. It took me about 8 hours.
 
I decided to do a bunch of work on my old Cobalt, including a new clutch, anti sway links, an axle, belt, hoses, filters, plugs, wires, O2 sensor,trans oil, engine oil, front brakes, blah blah blah. By the time I got it apart the sub frame was hanging from a tree and I was spraying it.
 
Starter in an LS400, its under the intake and about 30 hoses. Some year Jaguar water pump was $1000, parts guy was still laughing when it was my turn and he told me the good news from the last customer.. Hey, I got one better: Fuel pump(s) in a Ferrari F40. They are in tank, and the tanks are part of the carbon fiber chassis! You have to A: Send it to Stuttgart B. Send to major Ferrari service so they can send for the F40 Frame jig (wherever there is one of like 4 built) so they can cut the pumps out without tweaking the rest of the frame. C. Cut them out yourself and just graft a new body panel over the new access hole... And you have to pull the engine to change the timing belt.
 
reminds me of working on my wifes late model mercurys. She has an 8 yr bumper to bumper warranty including oil changes, belts, hoses and everything but tires on the suv she has now .
 
famous bob said:
reminds me of working on my wifes late model mercurys. She has an 8 yr bumper to bumper warranty including oil changes, belts, hoses and everything but tires on the suv she has now .
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That's the way to go right there on these "no user service parts inside" planned obsolescence cars of today. The Chevy Colorado has a front and rear timing chain!
 
New stuff is nice to drive for sure but I've struggled weather to buy newer or not. My wife and I currently drive full size late 90's Chevy trucks, a pickup and a Suburban. I like these trucks, I can work on them. I pop the hood and things look normal. I would like a new truck but have no desire to work on it. And don't even know if there's much I could do anyway. I don't know if I'm ready to give up understanding my vehicle or doing work on my own stuff. So for now, if we take a long road trip we treat ourselves to a brand new rental and enjoy it.
 
340doc said:
New stuff is nice to drive for sure but I've struggled weather to buy newer or not. My wife and I currently drive full size late 90's Chevy trucks, a pickup and a Suburban. I like these trucks, I can work on them. I pop the hood and things look normal. I would like a new truck but have no desire to work on it. And don't even know if there's much I could do anyway. I don't know if I'm ready to give up understanding my vehicle or doing work on my own stuff. So for now, if we take a long road trip we treat ourselves to a brand new rental and enjoy it.
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I don't like new cars at all, and not even to drive temporarily.
If we take a driving trip it's in my Dart because I like driving it's so much fun and it's just so dog gone reliable plus gets 25+ mpg on the hiway.
My Dart has rescued almost every other vehicle in the family except our Son's Honda 1100 Shadow motorcycle.
The newest vehicle we have is a 91 BMW 325 and I hate working on it even though it's not that bad really.:D
 
i used to have a VW passat, i believe it was an 05
the park brake was electronic
they had replaced the convertional brake adjuster with an electro motor
you press a button, it actuated a servo and the rear caliper locked up
(during normal operation these calipers would be hydraulic)
press the button again, the servo turn slightly the other way, and the brake is released

great idea right?
until its time to replace the rear brake pads because now you cant just back off the star adjusters, like on a drum car
you cant even put a C clamp on there and back bleed the calipers
you only have two options to get this servo backed off far enough to get new pads in
option 1
take it in to the dealership, have them hook it up to the computer, press a button to back off the caliper and charge you $250.00 (plus an additional $125.00 to install new pads because if they dont, the caliper will adjust again before you make it home
option 2
trace the wiring down to the connector, disconnect caliper from car and with a pair of jumperwires, hook it up to a lawnmower battery to actuate the servo and adjust it out (switch polarity if caliper goes in)

guess which option i chose?
 
skep419 said:
made the girlfriend sell her jaguar x-type for the same reason. 2 weeks after we sold it the fuel pump went out. 6 hour job. step 11 Remove the rear subframe
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The sad part about step 11 is that you only have to drop the rear subframe just to get at the quick connects on the fuel lines, the gas tank is up inside the trunk of the car behind the back seat.
 
67Dart273 said:
Earlier this spring I just got done changing a heater core in a Dakota, which requires dropping the column, removing the seats and dash, and THEN removing the heater box, or at least pulling it most of way out
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An evaporator core on a dodge caliber is as bad. Remove console, seats, lower dash, drop steering column and then remove top dash section to get to the heater box.

I wont even go into the caddy starter I just had to do #$@#$@ .
 
66Dvert said:
An evaporator core on a dodge caliber is as bad. Remove console, seats, lower dash, drop steering column and then remove top dash section to get to the heater box.

I wont even go into the caddy starter I just had to do #$@#$@ .
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I got news for You, that's been almost every Chrysler & Dodge/Tk/Jeep for the last 25 years, really not that bad considering You have to do it. They are all pretty much
laid out the same, connectors/grounds/modules/etc., try doing one in an Aztec/Rendevous for some fun:rolleyes:! I did an older Concord based NewYorker Evap one time, went
well until I lit it up & the stupid gauges did their "auto-sweep" and were pinned under the low stop, realized I had given the dash a complete "flip" setting it on the pad &
back over......oops! Pulled the cluster & un-flipped it, lol, oh well, nobody's perfect!
 
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