fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
Yeah BB is the only way to go for a strip only car IMHO. Don't cost anymore to build and a whole lot more cubes = a whole lot more power.
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Yeah BB is the only way to go for a strip only car IMHO. Don't cost anymore to build and a whole lot more cubes = a whole lot more power.
ramcharger
Dismember
Just broke the new Lunati in and all is well. Here's a breakdown of what I did this time around to prevent lobe wipe:
Filled crankcase with SJ rated Rottela SAE 30 plus 1 pint of Hughes Engines additive.
Coated lobes with the supplied break-in paste that came with cam and lifter kit.
Coated lifter foot with the same paste.
Smeared lifter sides with Royal Purple Full Synthetic to promote lifter rotation.
Primed oil system prior to starting.
As i was adjusting the valves, I noticed the supplied break in paste was getting wiped off, so I said fk it and poured the rest of an old bottle of Comp Cams break in lube over the cam prior to installing the intake manifold.
Set timing statically to 12 BTDC. I always tighten the distributor on break-in just enough so it won't move on it's own, but I can still move it around if necessary.
Primed carb. Easy when you have an electric fuel pump.
Followed Lunati's break-in directions to a T. Fire up and run between 2000 to 2500 rpm for 20 minutes. After the 20 min. are up, raise the rpm in 500 rpm increments for 1 minute at time until 3500 rpm is reached. Then go back down 500 rpm at a time for a minute at a time until you hit 1000 rpm. According to Lunati, once you hit 1000 rpm the break in process is complete.
Here's a few following notes:
I used the "Right Stuff" as a front and rear manifold/china wall sealant and I have zero leaks. I also used it as a manifold coolant inlet sealant WITH NO GASKET, and have zero leaks. This stuff is is truly the right stuff and I'm damn impressed. They claim no cure time and I believe it. When using RTV Black in the same manner I would always leave 24 hours to cure. I've tried it sooner and it always leaked whether for a differential, coolant or oil pan.
Another note is that I used a Milodon Crush Proof oil pan gasket. Since this engine was still in my truck I needed to use RTV to stick the gasket to the block. If I used a cork gasket, the RTV would have acted as a lubricant and squished right out when torqueing. The Milodon gasket did as advertised and held torque without a problem.
In closing, I found out quite a few things that just might help all my Mopar Bretheren.
The "Right Stuff" is the right stuff, Milodon makes a kick *** gasket, Lunati makes a great cam, Hughes Engines additive appears to work and I will never buy a flat tappet cam again, LOL!
Oh yeah, at 195 degrees after 25 minutes of cam break-in at 2300 rpm I'm still running 69-70 psi of oil pressure.
My impressions of this cam are as follows:
Super smooth idle and zero valvetrain noise and am pulling 19"+ of vacuum. I will not be test cruising tonight as I am freakin' beat. 100+ degrees today and I was just about dying.
I am now gulping a big fat Bacardi and Cherry Coke in my one last remaining Snap-On girley mug from '87 and loving every minute of it. :cheers: No driving tonight.
Filled crankcase with SJ rated Rottela SAE 30 plus 1 pint of Hughes Engines additive.
Coated lobes with the supplied break-in paste that came with cam and lifter kit.
Coated lifter foot with the same paste.
Smeared lifter sides with Royal Purple Full Synthetic to promote lifter rotation.
Primed oil system prior to starting.
As i was adjusting the valves, I noticed the supplied break in paste was getting wiped off, so I said fk it and poured the rest of an old bottle of Comp Cams break in lube over the cam prior to installing the intake manifold.
Set timing statically to 12 BTDC. I always tighten the distributor on break-in just enough so it won't move on it's own, but I can still move it around if necessary.
Primed carb. Easy when you have an electric fuel pump.
Followed Lunati's break-in directions to a T. Fire up and run between 2000 to 2500 rpm for 20 minutes. After the 20 min. are up, raise the rpm in 500 rpm increments for 1 minute at time until 3500 rpm is reached. Then go back down 500 rpm at a time for a minute at a time until you hit 1000 rpm. According to Lunati, once you hit 1000 rpm the break in process is complete.
Here's a few following notes:
I used the "Right Stuff" as a front and rear manifold/china wall sealant and I have zero leaks. I also used it as a manifold coolant inlet sealant WITH NO GASKET, and have zero leaks. This stuff is is truly the right stuff and I'm damn impressed. They claim no cure time and I believe it. When using RTV Black in the same manner I would always leave 24 hours to cure. I've tried it sooner and it always leaked whether for a differential, coolant or oil pan.
Another note is that I used a Milodon Crush Proof oil pan gasket. Since this engine was still in my truck I needed to use RTV to stick the gasket to the block. If I used a cork gasket, the RTV would have acted as a lubricant and squished right out when torqueing. The Milodon gasket did as advertised and held torque without a problem.
In closing, I found out quite a few things that just might help all my Mopar Bretheren.
The "Right Stuff" is the right stuff, Milodon makes a kick *** gasket, Lunati makes a great cam, Hughes Engines additive appears to work and I will never buy a flat tappet cam again, LOL! Oh yeah, at 195 degrees after 25 minutes of cam break-in at 2300 rpm I'm still running 69-70 psi of oil pressure.
My impressions of this cam are as follows:
Super smooth idle and zero valvetrain noise and am pulling 19"+ of vacuum. I will not be test cruising tonight as I am freakin' beat. 100+ degrees today and I was just about dying.
I am now gulping a big fat Bacardi and Cherry Coke in my one last remaining Snap-On girley mug from '87 and loving every minute of it. :cheers: No driving tonight.
catsncudas
Moparholic
Good deal:thumbrig: Glad it's running ok now. Kick back, relax and have a few drinks tonight. test drive in the morning:burnout:
I used to have a sh!tload of those Snap on mugs, but the wifey threw em out.
I used to have a sh!tload of those Snap on mugs, but the wifey threw em out.
ramcharger
Dismember
Here's a video for ya'. Sorry it's dark, but it's dark out, lol! Sounds very, very mild. It's only 3 degrees less duration than the Crane I previosly used. Give me a couple minutes to make another cocktail and i'll fire it up again and get a some revving on there. I have no idea of the sound quality of this camera, but I'm guessing it's not too hot.
Yeah the second x fiance trashed most of my mugs and a real cool clock. *****. LOL!
ramcharger
Dismember
Sounds bitchin' for a truck and I'm not even from California. I hope the sound does this thing justice. Long live Ramchargers!! It's a monster and everyone gives me room. I love this truck!
The first kicks to the trottle were about 3000 rpm, the last was about 4200 rpm.
The first kicks to the trottle were about 3000 rpm, the last was about 4200 rpm.
catsncudas
Moparholic
That thing sounds killer! Gotta love those Ramchargers. I'd love to find a decent 2wd to pro street.
ramcharger
Dismember
Here's some oil pressure proof:
ramcharger
Dismember
I think Memike has a big block D100 he hot rodded, PM him! IIRC I saw a guy who almost made it to the final 16 on Pinks with a D100. Dodges Rock!!
I hope that Snap-On mug's got a redhead on it. LMAO!
Congrats Joe! You've been through hell the last couple of weeks and I'm happy to hear it's back together and running great!
ccasion::drinkers:
Congrats Joe! You've been through hell the last couple of weeks and I'm happy to hear it's back together and running great!
ccasion::drinkers:
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
Sounds great Joe. You did it the way I allways break them in. I figure it you have extra cam lube why not drown the cam in it. It sure ain't gonna hurt anything. Sounds like it has real good throttle response too. All the Lunati's I've heard do. Even mine that's pretty large revs real quick.
BTW: Earlier I told you my lunati has 1/2-1 inches of vacuum less than the previous Comp I had in it but yet it has more low end grunt and gets better fuel mileage and we said it just seem strange that it would do that with less vacuum. Well today I was tinkering with the new carb trying to get it dialed in and needed a 3.5 power valve. I have a bunch of pv's but Holley's stamping on them is nearly impossible to read so I used my Mityvac to figure out what they were. When I got done I noticed one of the adapters would fit right in my old Mac vacuum gauge hose so I thought I'd test it for accuracy. It was 2" low on reading at 6 inches and 4 low by 10 inches. I took it apart and found out what to bend to calibrate it and got it right on the money throughout the whole sweep. Put the carb back on the car and hooked up the Mac gauge to it and walla it now has 8 to 8-1/2 inches at idle in neutral instead of 6 to 6-1/2 like I though it had. Back when I had the comp cam in it I was using a different vacuum gauge. I traded it in to a guy at a pawn shop for this Mac since it was pretty new looking I figured it would be right. That solves the mystery as to why the lunati has mow low end grunt and gets better fuel mileage.
BTW: Earlier I told you my lunati has 1/2-1 inches of vacuum less than the previous Comp I had in it but yet it has more low end grunt and gets better fuel mileage and we said it just seem strange that it would do that with less vacuum. Well today I was tinkering with the new carb trying to get it dialed in and needed a 3.5 power valve. I have a bunch of pv's but Holley's stamping on them is nearly impossible to read so I used my Mityvac to figure out what they were. When I got done I noticed one of the adapters would fit right in my old Mac vacuum gauge hose so I thought I'd test it for accuracy. It was 2" low on reading at 6 inches and 4 low by 10 inches. I took it apart and found out what to bend to calibrate it and got it right on the money throughout the whole sweep. Put the carb back on the car and hooked up the Mac gauge to it and walla it now has 8 to 8-1/2 inches at idle in neutral instead of 6 to 6-1/2 like I though it had. Back when I had the comp cam in it I was using a different vacuum gauge. I traded it in to a guy at a pawn shop for this Mac since it was pretty new looking I figured it would be right. That solves the mystery as to why the lunati has mow low end grunt and gets better fuel mileage.
ramcharger
Dismember
I hope that Snap-On mug's got a redhead on it. LMAO!
Congrats Joe! You've been through hell the last couple of weeks and I'm happy to hear it's back together and running great!
Well darlin' it's got this smokin' babe named Barb on it. Red hair, maybe cinnamon (Cinnamon Girl from CSN comes to mind) and she leaning on a 55 maybe 57 chevy. Short shorts and pink top. MMmmmmm....LOL! It's funny that my co-workers in the shop at the time thought she looked old. Gimme a break! I'm checking her out right now and I'm thinking "Damn! If I could only be so lucky, lol!".
No joke! I figured it couldn't hurt. It just sucks that I did everything Crane recommended when I bought it 2 years ago for crying out loud, lol (old parental expression, lol!).
Fishy, it does rev well but seems to gasp at the initial
pedal push, unlike the Crane. That is most likely due to my fudging around with the accelerator pump arm clearance adjustment to try to fix what turned out to be a boil over problem. I have a deep bump at the end of my drive into the street and without the exhaust heat passage blocked I found that when the fuel sloshed above it's normal level in the bowl, the truck just died. I pushed it back in the drive (try this on a 5K pound truck, it sucks, lol!) and pulled the air cleaner and found that fuel was barfing out the boosters.
To quote one of my buddies in the service: "Redheads... nature's most perfect food."
On to a slightly more serious note.
I was eyeballing that grind for my Dart and the video has pretty much confirmed it. That sounds healthy. The torque curve looks like Kansas according to Desktop Dyno. The only thing I find disconcerting is that the smooth idle is appealing to me. I must be aging beyond the "it has to idle like total crap and render the mirrors useless" phase. ;-)
On to a slightly more serious note.
I was eyeballing that grind for my Dart and the video has pretty much confirmed it. That sounds healthy.
The torque curve looks like Kansas according to Desktop Dyno. The only thing I find disconcerting is that the smooth idle is appealing to me. I must be aging beyond the "it has to idle like total crap and render the mirrors useless" phase. ;-)
ramcharger
Dismember
To quote one of my buddies in the service: "Redheads... nature's most perfect food."
On to a slightly more serious note.
I was eyeballing that grind for my Dart and the video has pretty much confirmed it. That sounds healthy.
LOL! yeah, it's pretty smooth but crack the throttle and it sounds like a bear. In regards to the idle, the Crane should have had a higher stall converter. Will the Crane work with a stock converter? Yes, but the user may have to do the 2 pedal dance at a stoplight. The Duster will be nasty, but the truck just has to get it to the track and back
I think Lunati is on to something as 3 degrees of duration should not make that big a difference. Smooth 'aint age, it's wisdom. 8)BTW, my mirrors vibrate no matter what cam is in it, lol! I signed the lease, I may ask for your help moving a couple things. All will be staged and ready to go. An hour total maybee. Beer and pizza is on me.
I won't say anything about redheads other than YEE HAWW, LOL!
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
Yeah I've seen them before. It would have been nice to have one today but I made due with an adapter they had and having my wife pump the Mityvac and tell me what it was reading. Kind of a pita that way but I got it done. May have to look into one of them adapters.
ramcharger
Dismember
I dropped out of college after the "professor" couldn't tell me if clamping forces were increased if the same amount of torque was applied to a 1/2" NC threaded bolt vs. a 1/2" NF bolt. I got what I needed and to design my own parts for my drag bike and split.
I could easily draw one up for you using a compass and rule (and a bit of trig), but the days of manual drafting are gone.... I need a machine shop.
I could easily draw one up for you using a compass and rule (and a bit of trig), but the days of manual drafting are gone.... I need a machine shop.
ramcharger
Dismember
Here's a rat rod eater, lol! That bumper is 3/8" thick. BTW, I don't care that my plate is shown. So how you'all feel about a half black half body color engine compartment? lol!
camd64
Remember Landy
damn! thats a whole lotta bumper! IFD, is that the last car that thing demolished saying I'M F@#%ED!
(Damn Red headed flag waver):angry7:
Damn right it better be!!!!!!!:toothy10:
He he he he
Why get serious? The quote seems about dead on to me.
Joe, all is good now? So far so good ...(Wheres the wood to knock on damn it, OH the desk, there we go.) Hows it feel on the road?
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
That's what I was thinking too. I remember back when I was a kid seeing a 1-1/2 ton truck with a massive home made bumper like that (but bigger) rip apart the side of a 1/2 ton Chevy like it was a tuna can. Of course being a kid all I could think of was how cool it sounded and the look on the face of the driver of the 1/2 ton. Now that I think of it I'm glad the guy didn't get hurt or killed.
ramcharger
Dismember
lol! That bumper was on the truck when I bought it. Someone here a while back suggested I borrow a plasma torch and cut some teeth in it.
So far so good, no lifter tick and it sounds great! I'll take a test cruise tonight. I still have to change the oil, put the block to trans brackets on, reconnect the vacuum advance after setting the timing and and drain the water I used for break-in in case there were any leaks.
No leaks no drips and no weird noises. Oil pressure is 70 psi hot (195-200) at 2300 rpm. I just about killed myself thrasing to get this done on Saturday. It was well over 100 F here and I think I dehydrated myself even though I went through about a gallon of Gatorade. I wasn't worth a crap on Sunday.
This thing is massive. I had to use a my Snap-on floor jack and two friends to get it bolted back on. 250 - 300 Lbs. maybe? Just for fun I whacked this thing as hard as I could with a 2 1/2 pound sledge a few years back and it barely left a mark. It's literally bullet proof.
The gator juice is good to a point, then just lots-o-water. Stay frosty!
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