Up Grades on Stroker-Suggestions

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MR4V

MR4V

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Want to do some up grades on the stroker in the Duster, heres the current set up

Stroked 360 with 4" forged crank
H beam rods
J E forged pistons
Balanced with zero deck
Out of the box Eddie heads
Crane Gold 1.5 rockers
Mopar Purple Cam 528, Add Dur 284, Dur @ 50 241, Lob sep 112
Mallory MSD ingnition
Headers are Hedman running through a 2 1/2 twin with Edelbrock mufflers
Edlebrock STR 1-2 cross ram with 450 Holleys with rear metering plates fitted, main jets 64, secondary jets 63, timing is 33 deg, rev limited at 6150.

Running 727 full manual reverse patan with 11" stall set at 3500, rear end is 8.75 with true-trac 3.91
Weight on the Duster is 3150
Max power at rear wheels is just shy of 300, torque is just over 400NM

This car see's street & strip duty & I feel there is more in it. I know the extuast is one area, I don't want to change the inlet as you dont see them in Oz at all.

Would I get an addvantage in up grading to TTI headers, 1.6 rockers & a smaller converter something along the line of 8"?
 
I'd start with the exhaust. 3" should be the minimum. Get a straight through style muffler like Magnaflo, Hooker Areo Chamber, Borla XR1. Stay away from chambered ones like Flowmasters. I'd next bump the headers up to 1 3/4" primary units.

The converter is definitely holding you back. Get a 4500 stall 8" from a quality manufacturer. I drove my 4500 8" verter on the street for years, just be sure to have a large cooler for the trans. A-1 or Ultimate would be my 2 top picks.

Porting the heads would be where I'd start if you want to get into the engine. Edelbrock heads are on the small side for a 4" stroker engine. Next would be the antique MP cam. Those grinds are antiquated to say the least. Bullet, Comp, Lunati among others all grind nice Mopar cams.

I don't think you'd find enough of a gain going to 1.6 rockers to be worth the cost.
 
TCE in OZ for the converter, if you choose to get locally. But will be $$$$
http://www.tceconverters.com.au/home.shtml
Maybe talk to Camtech http://www.camtechcams.com.au for a new cam.
Even with post charges, getting a converter from someone like PTC or Edge Converters in the USA will be cheaper, but if there is a problem with the stall speed then it will cost you $$$ to send it back for adjustment.
 
I have a 360 thats not stroked diffrence being Im running a rpm air gap with a 770 street avenger, 2200 stahl 355 gears mine makes 307 at the rear wheels at 6000, 412 torque. My heads arent ported either. I have alittle less cam than you, You just have to get it all to work together.
 
If it were me, I would start with the head work and a convertor change as has been stated. Next, if the compression ratio is on the high side, a cam change. A roller cam is what I would lean towards. That should get you down the road pretty good. Just my 2 cents, g'day
 
Bakerlite said:
Choosing form over function, you have a problem right there.
Click to expand...

Yep I understand that an Airgap will proform better as it is newer technology, the STR-12 is old school but they obviously worked.

Bakerlite said:
TCE in OZ for the converter, if you choose to get locally. But will be $$$$
http://www.tceconverters.com.au/home.shtml
Maybe talk to Camtech http://www.camtechcams.com.au for a new cam.
Even with post charges, getting a converter from someone like PTC or Edge Converters in the USA will be cheaper, but if there is a problem with the stall speed then it will cost you $$$ to send it back for adjustment.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the links. The cost of ordering one from the US is a lot cheaper and you are right the cost of getting it addjusted is the down side.
 
Sounds like I'm up for headers and exhaust, I will look into TTI or Doug's
Edddies OTB have a max lift of 575, if I get the heads ported and do a cam change should I stay with mech cam or go the roller route, yes I know it's personal choice, I don't mind mech cams & I have never run a roller cam.
Thanks
 
Performance doesn't stop at the engine so what do you think about swapping the 727 for a 904? A 904 will easily hold up to what your doing and it'll free up 20 or so horses you already have. Your already talking about swapping converters, which would help a good amount on it's own. A total changeover to a 904 with a good quality 9-1/2" converter will help even more and still drive great on the street.

Have you ran your car to see what it does on the track? What are your goals? Is this a dual purpose street/strip car, mostly street car, or mostly race car?
 
Roller! Rollers bring you into the power curve sooner and keep you there longer vs a flat tappet cam. But the cam and lifters are not cheap (though I gladly paid the cost).
 
fishy68 said:
Have you ran your car to see what it does on the track? What are your goals? Is this a dual purpose street/strip car, mostly street car, or mostly race car?
Click to expand...

Only run on the dyno to help sort out the combo, the local 1/4 is 3 hour's away, that will change within the next 6mths I'll be just a short drive away.
Goal is to have a high 11sec to mid 12 sec street car
 
Mechanical flat tappet. Spend the$$$ you save on a roller on different things. If your going with a converter from the USA then I'd suggest PTC converters.
 
skrews said:
I'd start with the exhaust. 3" should be the minimum. Get a straight through style muffler like Magnaflo, Hooker Areo Chamber, Borla XR1. Stay away from chambered ones like Flowmasters. I'd next bump the headers up to 1 3/4" primary units.

The converter is definitely holding you back. Get a 4500 stall 8" from a quality manufacturer. I drove my 4500 8" verter on the street for years, just be sure to have a large cooler for the trans. A-1 or Ultimate would be my 2 top picks.

Porting the heads would be where I'd start if you want to get into the engine. Edelbrock heads are on the small side for a 4" stroker engine. Next would be the antique MP cam. Those grinds are antiquated to say the least. Bullet, Comp, Lunati among others all grind nice Mopar cams.

I don't think you'd find enough of a gain going to 1.6 rockers to be worth the cost.
Click to expand...
This,make it simple.....
 
I think there's more in it just by tuning. My stock stroke eddie headed 360 makes 323 to the wheels. Did you play with timing and jets on the dyno?
 
MR4V said:
Want to do some up grades on the stroker in the Duster, heres the current set up

Stroked 360 with 4" forged crank
H beam rods
J E forged pistons
Balanced with zero deck
Out of the box Eddie heads
Crane Gold 1.5 rockers
Mopar Purple Cam 528, Add Dur 284, Dur @ 50 241, Lob sep 112
Mallory MSD ingnition
Headers are Hedman running through a 2 1/2 twin with Edelbrock mufflers
Edlebrock STR 1-2 cross ram with 450 Holleys with rear metering plates fitted, main jets 64, secondary jets 63, timing is 33 deg, rev limited at 6150.

Running 727 full manual reverse patan with 11" stall set at 3500, rear end is 8.75 with true-trac 3.91
Weight on the Duster is 3150
Max power at rear wheels is just shy of 300, torque is just over 400NM

This car see's street & strip duty & I feel there is more in it. I know the extuast is one area, I don't want to change the inlet as you dont see them in Oz at all.

Would I get an addvantage in up grading to TTI headers, 1.6 rockers & a smaller converter something along the line of 8"?
Click to expand...



Fact is that you have a decently matched combo, as in any larger of this or that and you'd have a domino effect of necessitated changes.

The exhaust isnt the ideal, but for the cams rpm/cid...its actually making the cut.
The heads have more in them, change the cam and the exhaust yes tti would be better and a 3'' pipes w/X over
In that order you will feel more diff in power increase than just doing the exh and leaving the rest.

as for better track performance, there are better convertors...but the stall is actually on the mark for what you are doing in street time driving, i wouldnt want any more stall on the street.

side note, i would use that .528 for mildly modified iron and or streeet auto stroker, but for a heavily modded iron or peformance after market race iron or aluminum head i would be picking a cam for what you are doing in the 250's @.050 dur /284-288 adv and a lot more lift say in the mid high .500's
 
Your cam is limiting you even with stock RPMs and that intake. You can get significant gains by replacing just the camshaft. You are really only opening the intake valve about .485" and the heads only flow around 235-240cfm and the you have a big intake on top of that. If we work backwards from that 400NM (296 pound feet give or take) to the tires you're not making anywhere near the "2hp per cfm" general rule. Replace the cam with something in the 250° @ .050 and at least .580 lift before lash and it will wake right up. I don't see anything else that is glaringly "bad".
 
On the heads, porting them is a great start since OOTB Edelbrock heads are not really enough head for the stroker. Once ported, use a cam like Moper said. Note that the increased lift also takes advantage of the heads better flow rates when the valve is lifted. Take advantage of the flow! Lift the valve! Otherwise, you might have as well stayed with the iron heads bowl ported.

The big inch engine also eats up duration so that big cam is t so big.
Solid or roller is your choice.
Then what screws said. Bigger exhaust and better headers with a better and smaller converter.
 
Whatever you do, it's not going to be cheap..
 
That 528 will easily push a decent SB car to a 12.00 timeslip, stroker or not. Lash it tighter, like .020-.022 area. An XE268H will get you a mid 12 in a decent car and the 528 is miles bigger from a duration standpoint. Take ~ 320RWHP to push a 3300# car to a 12.00/110.

The intake is a huge question mark. If it's as cast, it's not a good piece. With the requisite mods, pop sticks/epoxy, it will work well.

A better exhaust system wouldn't hurt. tti or a 1 3/4" tube, 3" and ultra flows.

A good converter could show a .5+ gain in ET alone.
 
Bakerlite said:
Mechanical flat tappet. Spend the$$$ you save on a roller on different things. If your going with a converter from the USA then I'd suggest PTC converters.
Click to expand...

Also been told to contact either Lenny at Ultimate Converter ultimateconverter.com, or Dave Caine at ATI atiracing.com . Anyone used these?

moper said:
Your cam is limiting you even with stock RPMs and that intake. You can get significant gains by replacing just the camshaft. You are really only opening the intake valve about .485" and the heads only flow around 235-240cfm and the you have a big intake on top of that. If we work backwards from that 400NM (296 pound feet give or take) to the tires you're not making anywhere near the "2hp per cfm" general rule. Replace the cam with something in the 250° @ .050 and at least .580 lift before lash and it will wake right up. I don't see anything else that is glaringly "bad".
Click to expand...

Yes the intake is a limiting factor thats why I spent some time modifying the 450 Holleys
Cam is old school as I'am. Been told that a duel patten cam would be the go, can you point me in the right direction?
Thanks

Bakerlite said:
Whatever you do, it's not going to be cheap..
Click to expand...

Yep I understand that that is why I want to plan this better. When I change the cam I will also get a converter to match.

crackedback said:
That 528 will easily push a decent SB car to a 12.00 timeslip, stroker or not. Lash it tighter, like .020-.022 area. An XE268H will get you a mid 12 in a decent car and the 528 is miles bigger from a duration standpoint. Take ~ 320RWHP to push a 3300# car to a 12.00/110.

The intake is a huge question mark. If it's as cast, it's not a good piece. With the requisite mods, pop sticks/epoxy, it will work well.

A better exhaust system wouldn't hurt. tti or a 1 3/4" tube, 3" and ultra flows.

A good converter could show a .5+ gain in ET alone.
Click to expand...

Rob you havn't lead me astray yet so I will try the reduced lash. The intake is as cast as far as I'm aware, I will try to research the mods you are talking about.

Thanks
 
MR4V said:
Also been told to contact either Lenny at Ultimate Converter ultimateconverter.com, or Dave Caine at ATI atiracing.com . Anyone used these?
Click to expand...

Haven't used Ultimate or ATI but heard good things about them. I have a PTC in my car now and it works real good. Wouldn't hesitate to use PTC again if I were in the market for a converter
 
If you haven't already, use a good a/f meter to see how your carbs are performing throughout the rpm and load range....
 
abody said:
If you haven't already, use a good a/f meter to see how your carbs are performing throughout the rpm and load range....
Click to expand...

This is a great suggestion if you don't have one. They are a really helpful tool for tuning. Especially if it has a datalogger so you can download and see what it's doing in relation to rpm.
 
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