Up Grades on Stroker-Suggestions

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FWIW the strokers need to breathe. I would leave the intake alone for now and port those heads. You need about 260-270 cfm to make good hp and torque.
 
Might want to look into some airwoofer heads as well with bigger valves. They flow a hell of a lot more than the eddys with more cam you could easily pick up some serious hp. Just a thought.
 
Going through this with my barracuda at the moment, the where to from here with a mild 408.

To give you an idea, my 69 barracuda with 3100 stall, 3.9 gears, 727 and a 408 with 248 solid cam and stock w2 heads ran a 11.72 at 115.5mph at the mopar rumble drag day in sydney last month,not super quick but still ok for something I can just jump in and drive anytime.

My thoughts are a bigger cam, dont know about you but my 248 solid is very tam and getting the heads ported. I don't think stock heads, either edelbrock or w2 are good enough for 408 cubes.
 
Yep! Same boat. Port the W2's and get a new cam. A minor increase i. Duration and you can s keep the stall converter. Get a cam with as much lift as possible to take advantage of the head flow.
 
evil66 said:
Going through this with my barracuda at the moment, the where to from here with a mild 408.

To give you an idea, my 69 barracuda with 3100 stall, 3.9 gears, 727 and a 408 with 248 solid cam and stock w2 heads ran a 11.72 at 115.5mph at the mopar rumble drag day in sydney last month,not super quick but still ok for something I can just jump in and drive anytime.

My thoughts are a bigger cam, dont know about you but my 248 solid is very tam and getting the heads ported. I don't think stock heads, either edelbrock or w2 are good enough for 408 cubes.
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This issue is on the front end, 60', with a 115.5 mph. That MPH is mid 11.40 et.
 
Port and gasket match the heads.
Run a lunati Voodoo cam -10200705 (old 60405)
242/252 dur. @.050
.533/.552 lift
TTI stepped headers 1-5/8 to 1-3/4 with 3" collector
Match up a good convertor with the engine,gears and tire size and you should fly.
 
moper said:
Your cam is limiting you even with stock RPMs and that intake. You can get significant gains by replacing just the camshaft. You are really only opening the intake valve about .485" and the heads only flow around 235-240cfm and the you have a big intake on top of that. If we work backwards from that 400NM (296 pound feet give or take) to the tires you're not making anywhere near the "2hp per cfm" general rule. Replace the cam with something in the 250° @ .050 and at least .580 lift before lash and it will wake right up. I don't see anything else that is glaringly "bad".
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Brian at IMM makes a good Camshaft that I will be using. Its 251-260 @50
 
evil66 said:
Going through this with my barracuda at the moment, the where to from here with a mild 408.

To give you an idea, my 69 barracuda with 3100 stall, 3.9 gears, 727 and a 408 with 248 solid cam and stock w2 heads ran a 11.72 at 115.5mph at the mopar rumble drag day in sydney last month,not super quick but still ok for something I can just jump in and drive anytime.

My thoughts are a bigger cam, dont know about you but my 248 solid is very tam and getting the heads ported. I don't think stock heads, either edelbrock or w2 are good enough for 408 cubes.
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Was at the Rumble for it's first run but the event was called due to rain. Spent 3 hour's traveling up got it wieghed & went home. Bummer

Bakerlite said:
Confused yet Mr4V??
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Yep. Looks like I will strat with headers & exhaust, then check the A/F ratio again. I will start looking at cams now.

Fst73_360 said:
Brian at IMM makes a good Camshaft that I will be using. Its 251-260 @50
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Been reading up on IMM and Brain, looks like he knows his Mopars
 
I would Give Brian a Call. He is in California, but he will answer any questions that some may not. He will also take the time to explain everything that others like Mike at MRL will also do. I just prefer Brian because he is closer to me.
 
The TTI headers turn very sharp at the heads. There are better headers for power. TTI's are really good for ground clearance. My two cents. After you fix a better flowing exhaust and make sure your tune is good. I'd get a 904 and a good 9" converter. I like the 9" better on the street. A 8" is faster though if you can hook the car up with it.
 
Mr4V, let me ask you a question. Do you know what your intake manifold flows?? Whats its distribution like???
 
tvt59 said:
The TTI headers turn very sharp at the heads. There are better headers for power.
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WOW! That's the first time I've read that. Considering his combo, I have to disagree a bit. Please do so name and give the part number of the better header!
 
Bakerlite said:
Mr4V, let me ask you a question. Do you know what your intake manifold flows?? Whats its distribution like???
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Great question. No I have not had it flowed, the Duster was purchased from a FABO memeber, the changes I have made to the strocker are the MSD, better linkages as second Holley was only opening 1/2 way, better fillters and a tune.

Googled STR 1-2 and found these images, no flow figures



Very open plenmum, I do remember reading about some mods on them, I have been unsuccessful finding it again.

Heres a photo of the current set up.

 
Twists, turns, low flat runners, distribution issues and fuel puddling... not a good intake..
No point working those heads if your manifold kills them off. My advice would be to get a good single plane hi rise manifold , better exhaust, dual 3 inch ( all Aussies like that ;) ) and then start sorting from there. If you like the look of that intake you have ,you can always put it back on once the motor is sorted. Then you can spend some time on it to get it to perform as well a a single plane.
 
3406pk said:
FWIW the strokers need to breathe. I would leave the intake alone for now and port those heads. You need about 260-270 cfm to make good hp and torque.
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This,plus some more. That 4.00 inch arm tames camshafts & adds low end torque. I like the cam ,you suggested. I would pull the heads,see if you can find a local head porter. Doesn't take much,to really make them work. I like the intake you have. Mopar Muscle did a feature car,with that intake on a similar 416. Was quite streetable(3.91-4.10's). If you have the patience & want to learn,it's feasable. FWIW,Built a similar 408,stuffed WAY more cam.,Borderline drive able,yes . Strokers are so forgiving in tuning ,compared to short stroke builds.
 
I think htat Lunati grind is still a little small - it will improve things but I'm not certain by how much. I'd still be looking for another 5-8° in duration at .050, and another .020-.030" of lift.
On the intake mods - look for the old Trans-Am tech papers or the older Mopar Engines manuals. I think they had them there but it's been a while.
 
Abodybomber said:
This,plus some more. That 4.00 inch arm tames camshafts & adds low end torque. I like the cam ,you suggested. I would pull the heads,see if you can find a local head porter. Doesn't take much,to really make them work. I like the intake you have. Mopar Muscle did a feature car,with that intake on a similar 416. Was quite streetable(3.91-4.10's). If you have the patience & want to learn,it's feasable. FWIW,Built a similar 408,stuffed WAY more cam.,Borderline drive able,yes . Strokers are so forgiving in tuning ,compared to short stroke builds.
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With a shorter arm, being the stroke makes that rod ratio shrink, the the piston is pulling on the int port sooner, thinking like this could lead to advocating low lift flow and keeping the lift lower than one would tend to steer towards.
or *Roller cam* lol

Bigger rod ratio pulls on the int port closer to mid stroke, valve/lift timing is everything.
 
I know this is an old thread but I thought I would give you an up date.
Went back to the dyno to redo the A/F ratio and see if we could get more timing out of it, we also dropped the exhaust to see if there was anymore improvement.
It was running miles to fat so that's was sorted out, more timing and dropping the exhaust made no more improvement.

Headed to the track for a run, straight off the trailer in full street trim running a full tank of 98ron, 36psi in street tyres, launching at 1800rpm it cut a 14.70 at 109.9mph, traction was a major problem.
Dropped the tyre pressure down to 26psi, launched at 1800rpm and cut a 12.70 at 112.9mph, reaction was .810, 60 feet was 2.09. Crossing the line at 5650rpm well under the rev limit of 6150
Going to buy some ET radials, thinking of changing the diameter from 28" to 26" to get the revs up a bit.
Suspension still needs some work although weight transfer looks good along with rear separation.


 
Nice looking car you have there. You have the MPH to run 11.90s or thereabouts once you can get it to leave hard.
 
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